Bert2006

:sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

:rotf::rotfl::rotf::rotfl::rotf::Laugh::Laugh::Laugh::Laugh::Laugh::Laugh:

Well, I signed off from the FB group this morning. Not much activity on it but the main reason is I got really tired of looking at what is called a ''pond monster'' whenever I visited. (I know, I am not in the inner circle and I do not get the joke ) But, what a gross picture!

No experience with those but here is what I did: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?117246-Conversion-to-LED-Passing-Lamps http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?117245-CREE-LED-H4-Headlight-Installation Good luck with your project...

Yes, It has return to home as it is GPS enabled. Can engage RTH anytime when flying or it will auto engage if it loses the connection with the transmitter. Will auto-land when in RTH. Also has a follow-me mode. Camera is a 1080, so quality should be good.

Will post updates, but it is coming from China and they only shipped it 2 weeks after I ordered. Current tracker say's its been on a flight to Canada for the past 4 day's (must be a strong headwind). I am not expecting it to arrive before early or mid-Jan. As long as it does not go above 300M or used commercially, no permit required in Canada. However, some have flown the model I got well above 1500M so far by upgrading the antennas.

Yup, got this one to learn with before investing in higher quality model. I do a lot of photography so this will open up a whole new area for me. I bet those first few flights will be interesting.

http://www.banggood.com/Hubsan-X4-H501S-5_8G-FPV-With-1080P-HD-Camera-Brushless-Motor-GPS-RC-Quadcopter-RTF-p-1004657.html?rmmds=search Needed something to keep me occupied until next riding season so ordered one of these this week:

The clutch wine relates to a gear design issue. They use straight cut gears. On some bikes it is move evident than others. I have it a bit on my bike but it usually gets droned out pretty fast by road noise, exhaust and music on the intercom.

Welcome to the group; I ride a 2006 with 61000 miles on it and I am the 3rd owner of that bike. Specific to your questions: 1. 5th gear is definitely for highway speed. I rarely use it unless I am on a 4 laner. These engines like to run in high revs as opposed to lugging in low revs. 2. Regular gas during season and then high test for end of season leading to storage. Ethanol is the problem when the bike sits for a while. Here High test does not have ethanol. Use Seafoam additive on a regular basis to keep carbs clean. 3. Front and rear shocks have air bladders. Use only a hand pump as you will blow them out with a compressor. I use a zero loss hand pump. The rear shock is known to fail. Look for any amount of excessive oil under or around the shock. You can get affordable aftermarket ones (without air adjustable) or replace with stock unit but will be more expensive. 4. Fuel pumps are using points and these will wear down. I replaced the pump on mine with a new pump, kept and fixed the points on the old one and now I have a spare that I keep in the trunk. 5. Oil and filter change is a 20 min job at the max. Also need to replace the oil in the read differential (pumpkin) at least once a year. Just need to remove one saddlebag to do that. 6. Sluggish handling can be fixed by going to a smaller 130 (instead of the 150) up front. I run Commander II's and they last long. You can also install leveling links in the back to raise the suspension a bit, but for me the 130 did the job. 7. Carbs need to be adjusted regularly, but that does not take long. 8. Valve adjustments however are more involved. The cost is all related to getting to the valves to replace the shims as you need to tear down a good portion of the top of the bike. Easily done, but time demanding. At least 3hrs at my dealer. Although it does ask for some regular attention I love this bike and have no regrets in getting it. Reg maintenance and attention does come with the deal though. Good luck with your choice and as was said before, this site is well worth the registration fee. Check out the tech forums and you will see well done articles on all of the maintenance items for this bike.

I am following a discussion on FB were someone is indicating the failure to lube the splines on the rear wheel hub can lead to a complete lock up. Is this possible? I read here that they will start clicking when dry, but never read about it causing wheel lock ups.

Up here we have been in a patterns of warm and sunny during the week (WHEN WE ARE WORKING) :bang head::bang head: and cold, rainy and windy :crying::crying: on the weekends. So have not ridden in at least 3 week's :crying::crying:

:sign yeah that:

Looks good, are they a direct replacement and do you have pic of them folded up?

I am with Doug on this one. Commander IIs all the way.

Love it!

I just put a set of RSTD pipes on mine and they are super quiet with a great sound. Found them on eBay!

Intersting that warnings are up as far as here on this one for the weekend. Be safe people!

I have a TomTom Rider and it comes with Tyre which is the trip planning software. Both work extremely well together and there is a lifetime 2xper year free update on the maps. Designed for motorcycle use. Love it!

I would open the switch housing and fill it with dielectric grease:confused24:, otherwise would be looking for a bad ground or connections.

Wonder if this is it:whistling: https://www.facebook.com/YamahaMotorCanada/

Yeah but knowing that such a pretty piece of engineering is sitting there inside and out of view is so rewarding

But the Barnet plate is so pretty also.....

Can't see how overfilling would cause slippage, but you will definitely get oil in your air filter and then drainage out of the overflow tube. Type of oil could cause slippage, but if you are using Yamalube that should not be the case. Looks like the Barnet spring kit should solve your problem. I did mine 2 years ago now and remember the next few things that will make things easier. 1. You can do it without draining the oil while the bike is on the sidestand. 2. Replace the gasket at the same time. 3. Use the new gasket to make a cardboard template so you can stick the bolts in it as you remove them as they are of different lengths. 4. Use a ball head hex key for the bottom bolt, that way you do not need to remove exhaust. 4. When the clutch is apart, DO NOT pull on your clutch handle, that causes parts to move out of alignment. 5. When placing the Barnet plate make sure it is properly indexed and seated. 6. Make sure things are torked properly as the values are low, so do not overtighten. 7. Enjoy you slip free ride from now on....

Hope this does not jinx me , but 2006 with original at 60,000 miles.