BratmanXj

If you only change the mufflers no carb adjustments are necessary. If you ALSO change the intake or head pipes then you would need to tune the carbs. You didn't ask, so I'll assume you've found the mounting brackets and clamp information already. You will need to expand the muffler intake slightly to fit over the head pipes.

Lost my father in May, 4 days after his 67th Birthday and the day after Mother's Day, to a heart attack. We has just spent the weekend at the cottage cleaning up and getting ready for the season, he was up and down the road all day with my Niece and Nephew fishing and no signs of anything wrong. My father was a retired carpenter, I worked the trades with him through college and learned a lot. I just purchased a new house and was ALWAYS on the phone with him asking for advice or tricks to projects. He relied a lot on me being his muscle when we took on projects. I had a great relationship with him. My wife is due this week with our 1st child, I still don't know how I'll get through telling him about his Papa.

Chicago has been Mid-High 40's and somewhat clear this week...weekend will be 28 and snow flurries. Guess It's time to clean out the workshop and put her away after Toys For Tots next weekend.

I just removed the AIS off my '99 a few weeks back when I had to do a rear tire and swing arm maintenance. In order to REMOVE the system from the bike you will have to swing the radiator out of the way, the front valve and lines run between the engine and radiator. To cap the exhaust ports I used 1/2 copper plumbing caps and the stock metal "gasket" material. I cut the cap with an air cut-off wheel and crimped them on to the exhaust ports.

Every year for the past 10 years. Last year was insane; TFT said approximately 70,000 bikes and a "Biblical" turnout. That's what you get when you have near 60 deg in December. I can say I've done -6 to 60.

Ok, why can I not navigate an OEM parts catalog. Does anyone have the part number for the Tour Deluxe Bars? Is there a difference in the Tour Deluxe Bars and the older ('96-'98) Tour Classic Bars?

Having pulled some majorly oversize trailers behind my old Jeep Cherokee and knowing how bad the wind would push around a 4,000 lb Jeep I would be very leery. I've had 20' campers or 12,000lb loaded trailers and I wouldn't want to do it again. I believe you can make it work on paper and in principal. In an emergency situation or "extreme case" I don't see it working and you don't have a safety cage like you do in a car.

Wife is due just before then...depending on how that works out I'd love to go to the Chicago show.

Low rpm torque should go up, but in the 2,200-3,500 rpm range. Off-idle response (900-1,800 rpm) will go down from the 4-carb setup due to low air velocity in each of the intake runners not fully charging each cylinder with fresh fuel/air.

Can anyone give me a part number or a lead on a Tour Deluxe bar? Do stock cables and hoses fit with the Tour Deluxe bar? I already have RS Warrior brakes to put on so swapping the hoses are on my winter list. I have no problems putting in the money to get where I want, but would rather do it in the least amount of steps! That's why I'm asking for the advice.

Not trying to offend, but there is no need to inform the whole site that your hammering out a deal with Atoolnut. I was kinda hopping someone else had some input on various models of mufflers they've put on their bike.

I've already messed around with stock bars rotating the mount and the controls. What I am looking for is a handlebar that has "less pullback" or rotation to the controls. Where my knuckles would face directly forward rather than outward. On my Road King I had Wild1 Chubby 8" apes that were only slightly higher than the current height of the stock RSV bars, but the bars did not angle back as sharply at the grips. My wrist was straight from my arm through my fingers. The inside of my wrist is where I get pain, due to the pullback in the stock bars. Has anyone put something other than RSV, RSTD, or the Flanders Glide Bar on their bike? Edit: I'm 6'3" 250 LB. Seating position is fine, just looking for something where my elbows aren't tucked into my rib cage and my hands are straight out in front of me.

Ole Smoky Moonshine Only reason I know is that's what we drank while down at the dragon back in '11. They have a distillery in Gatlinburg, TN. http://www.olesmokymoonshine.com/varieties/#apple-pie-moonshine

Didn't the Goldwing get a major reworking for 2012? Yes, I know its still the same 1800 chassis they have been using since 2001; but the 1500 stuck around for 13 years and is still a major player in the used bike market. Yamaha dropped the ball on the Royal Star line by not making any incremental changes, but even in 2013 it is still a viable player in the touring market. These are touring bikes, people want comfort and reliability and not high tech and cutting edge. Honda is working on introducing people to riding by expanding the sub-600cc product line. Yamaha is expanding their mid-size line to bring in new customers. As BigLenny said, they look at the overall (even outside motorcycles) to improve the company as a whole. The Touring-Cruiser to Yamaha is a SMALL percentage of their gross sales.

I've had my '99 RVS for a few thousand miles now and realize I NEED to change out the handlebars for a better wrist position. The "outward" turn/twist of the hand to grab the stock controls causes pain after only a short time of riding. On my last few cruisers (Road King, V-Star 1100) I was able to put mini-apes on that put my knuckles facing directly forward without putting the controls to tall. I've read some recommendations for the Flanders 'Road Glide Style' bars but they appear to add height and not change the wrist angle. I know the bike uses 1" bars and there are plenty of options out there, but looking to see if anyone has experience or photos to show any other model handlebar mounted on a Venture. Thanks

Usually find them in ANY motorcycle or automotive magazine, in the coupon packs that come in my mail every week; or the Sunday paper in the coupon flyer or even the Parade (or other local variation) magazine in the weekend newspaper. My local HF will not honor printed coupons, must be originals...but they put them out in enough different places that they are not hard to come by. Edit - You can also go to HF website and sign up for mail or e-mail coupons

The market as a whole has gone to the Bobber and Chopped-Bagger look. Full tourers are not as hot of a market as the once were. Yamaha has put out the Bolt & Stryker to compete against the growing bobber market. They have the 1300 Deluxe and Stratoliner Deluxe to compete with the bagger market. They are chasing what is hot right now.

Any Harley touring chassis from I believe the mid 80's through 2008. The best bet is finding pipes from the late 90's through 2005 because they do not have the emissions catalyitic converter like the later models. Any of the aftermarket slip-ons that fits a STOCK HD head pipe will also work.

I have SE HD touring pipes on mine right now. They have a nice sound at idle but don't have enough Bass/Burble at speed, they sound tinny. I've looked at the V&H monster ovals but the best I've found is $400 used. As a joke I threw my buddy's Reinharts of His SE Ultra Classic and they sounded just as my current SE pipes, great at idle but thin and tinny at speed. We just don't have enough CC going to the pipes to get the deep rumble.

Hd has a poor camshaft support plate, known to chew up cam chains and take the oil pump with them. When you rebuild most choose either the screaming eagle support plate to eliminate the flex or go to gear driven cam shafts.

Some people believe they should recoup every penny they ever put into a bike, including interest on their loan. I looked at one bike where the guy handed me a list down to every oil change he ever did to the bike and the prices totaled at the end of the page as his selling price.

I have done the Chicagoland Toys for Tots Motorcycle Parade for 10 years now and every year it gets worse. Usually the temps are cold since it's the 1st week of December in Chicago but last year was mid 50's. Riders lined up with both saddlebags filled with beer and ice and hung out for 2-3 hours drinking at 7:00 am....FOR A CHARITY RIDE. I'm an not a perfect roll model, I do poker runs and will have a beer or two throughout the day, but I know limits and safety and do not drink to excess. When on some of these runs I'll see guys holding 2-3 empty beers at the 1st stop at 10:00 am. I couldn't bring my self to spend $20k or more on some of these bikes and drink to this excess putting your investment and your life in danger.

Hour and half ride for me. Been lurking on here fixing up my new-to-me '99 so it would be nice to meet some of you guys.

Forwards by Mapman are necessary if your anything over 5'8" tall...those mid-mounts made that bike CRAMPED.

I had a '96 xv750. Bike is known for weak stator and rectifiers but engines are mostly stout and fairly simple to work on. Carb tuning is usually the bigest issue as they are air cooled and the rear cylinder runs HOT. I'd stay away from a fully siezed bike as they usuaaly are not worth the time/money to repair. These bikes fall into the usual "inexpensivd jap cruiser" market of the 80's and early 90's and can be had running for under $2k in very good shape.