BratmanXj

I'd like to know what model Shinko? I ran a 230 Tourmaster on the rear for the past 2 years and had probably 8k-9k miles on it as a mildly agressive rider, the tire stuck great dry or rain (even some snow). While I agree the Dunlop E3 is a far superior tire, it costs 2-3 times as much as I pay for my Shinko.

Last year I saw Puc while crossing the Mackinac Bridge and said to the wife "Hey, I know him" and get the usuall response of "Uh-hu" with the eye roll. So we're cruising up the lake and I said "I've chatted with a guy from around here" and the response "Oh, another one of your internet friends?"

Whole front end teardown: New head bearings lower front forks (either new springs or slide them up, need to check funds) hardwire the Zumo GPS HID Headlight LED Spot Lamps Fix the "freeze plug" coolant leak and fix a slow leak in the Stratoliner front wheel RS Warrior is getting a new front tire But I ended up with a pile of garden tractors & snow throwers that people dropped up stuffed into my workshop that need attention before I can get to the bikes.

They called for the same "Big Snow" o 5-10" down here in Chicago and I was hoping to get my new (to me) Deere tractor & snowthrower out for a 1st run but ended up only getting like 3" total. Speaking of...I picked up the thrower a few weeks back in NW Milwaukee and we took the scenic route up the lake front and past the Crazy house in your neck of WI.

Chicago had their Toys For Tots run yesterday (has been the 1st Sunday of December for 30+ years)... They moved the ride up 1 hour and kicked off at 8:30 am in light flurries but over all dry streets. Hit the drop off point an hour later in dry conditions. About 1/2 way home the humidity went way up and next think you know me and my buddy are in THICK snow with 15 miles to home. Good thing I was running my "snow" tires since I went darkside earlier this year.

Reverse my directions....Not my main bike, I "inherited" an '07 from a buddy who had twin boys and is house-hunting so I'm storing the bike and the one that blew the jackshaft was an old riding buddy's.

I wans't meaning to call you out or anything... You just happened to post the comment that jogged my memory

Photoshoped?

Actauly the RS and RSW line do have an issue with shaft splines, I've had to tear down my buddies 2007 Warrior because he blew the sprocket appart on the Jack Shaft. The engine output is on the left side and the belt drive is on the right side, there is a "drive-shaft" that runs behind the transmission transfering the engine output (internal chain drive) to the belt drive and the belt sprocket is known to loosen and shear the splines. Search Road Star Jack Shaft on google and you'll find plenty enough information, not really a hard job and probably $300 for a new shaft & sprocket.

Kinda...If you're on the stock rubber lines they will twist to fit the new location of the banjo-bolt. It doesn't look great now that the rubber line "flares" out from the front forks but it will work. Talk to SkyDoc about replacement stainless lines. As for the rear caliper I've never looked into it for a rear fitment, I still run my stock 2-pot rear on my '99 Venture.

If you buy Mid 90's AXIAL MOUNT R1 or R6 calipers (blue dot or gold dots) they fit any venture from '86 and up. If you have a Royal Star and looking to keep the silver/chrome calipers you can search for late model Road Star 1700cc models ('04-up), Stratoliners & Roadliners came with a version of the Blue dot calipers. Early model Road Star Warrior ('02 - '05) came in black & chrome. The Road Star & Warrior chrome/silver 14mm master cyliners fit the Royal Star line of bikes, I'm not certain on fitment of masters on early Ventures ('86-'93). You DO NOT want radial mounted calipers from 2000's R1, R6 or late model ('05-up) Warrior.

In a pinch I've done similar, but used the rear sub-frame / trailer hitch. With modern unit body cars I'd be afraid to bend up the pinch welds along the rockers doing it as shown in that photo.

I put a 165/80R15 Nankang CX668 on my bike about 2 months ago and I've been playing with tire pressures up and down the spectrum and haven't found the sweat spot yet. I've been up at 43/44 and down to 30 and I can't get ride of the high-speed wobble, but it could be the tire design as well. I have a new MC tire sitting in the garage but figured I'd give this a shot and found the tire for $50.

Was just look at those the other day in when we were in Florida

Heading to Bradenton on Saturday to see my Aunt & Uncle, so far they say they're fine. My mom's staying down for a few extra days and heading to the Orlando area to see some old friends. Hopefully this puppy spins back out into the Atlantic quickly and doesn't do to much damage.

Hey, retro is in. Why do you think Triumph offers the Bonneville line, BMW the R nine T, Enfields & Urals...Hell even Yamaha has the SR400 with a kick starter

No mater what you do the bike will always be a big tourer/cruiser.... but you can improve the bike and make it a capable long distance bike that will still have some performance in the turns. 1. Replace the OEM Bridgestone Tires. There are a lot of options for better tires, Dunlop E3 (E4?), Michelin, Shinkos...etc. 2. When replacing the front tire go to a 130mm width vs the OEM 150mm. This will lighten the steering of the bike. 3. Lower the forks 3/4" in the triple clamp or go to shorter straight-weight fork springs; more aggressive steering angle. 4. I'm a Big guy and I ride hard. Put a heavy duty rear shock on the bike, raises the back of the bike (less static suspension sag) for more aggressive steering angle. 5. Late model RoadStar (or early RS Warrior, or mid-90's R1) front brakes and 14mm Master Cylinder for a much more aggressive brake setup.

If you're looking for a "budget" tire a lot of people have had good luck with Shinko. I've run a 230 Tourmaster that has a load rating of 80 and V speed rated, they can be had for under $80 and usually net me about 9k miles.

I drilled an tapped the floor board mounting brackets, bolted a short aluminum "strap" at a 45 deg angle towards the crash bar and bolted it to a chrome bar clamp on the lower end of the crash bar. I'll post a photo later when I get home.

#1 , the sun is a big issue with navigation screens fading over time, it does the same to old fashion LCD radio screens. Doesn't Honda provide a cover for the nav unit? There are a few companies who repair stand-alone gps like Garmin & TomTom who might be able to supply a replacement screen for a fraction of the cost of OEM. I google search did find me this adobe file, and it looks like the parts are interchangeable with BMW parts with aftermarket product numbers: https://files.acrobat.com/a/preview/6ecf75ef-87d6-4155-af2d-07c6fe79ea99

I run the HD springs in a Barnett on my RSW, my buddy runs a standard Barnett on his RSW... we definitely notice the difference in grip strength not not much in the way of action. I run a Double-D, 2 oem springs welded together since I had a surplus, in my Venture and didn't really notice any difference in the pickup of the clutch. I'm sure its the same argument from tires of people who notice a huge improvement, of course it is compared to worn out tires.

I completely agree it is a beautiful part sitting in the packaging, but once its INSIDE the engine who cares. I run the Barnet plate and extra heavy duty springs on my built 110 ci Road Star Warrior with a 280 rear tire, its a great product that will hold up to some serious abuse. But on a reasonably stock Venture save yourself the $100 and put in the Skydoc kit or EBC.

The Barnet pressure plate is the "Top of The Line" part for replacement of the Yamaha Diaphragm Spring but also is the most costly; it really is overkill for our use in these bikes. EBC sells an updated Diaphragm spring as well as SkyDock on this forum which comes with all the gaskets necessary.

Most 4-stroke & 2-stroke "garden" equipment will start with 2-turns on each of the setting screws; Soft seat the needle and then 2 full turns of the screw out on both the Low & High speed.