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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/28/2021 in all areas

  1. These are the extremes that are being used as fear mongering as they can be documented and they are the rare outliers. Again there are estimates as high as 40% of the population have had COVID with little or no symptoms but unfortunately these cannot be documented. I personally know 15 - 20 people who have had COVID or tested positive for the antibodies who have had little to no symptoms. I also know 3 that have died with the Virus but all 3 had severe underlying conditions of Cancer, major heart conditions and diabetes. I personally don't know any one who died strictly because of SARS-COV-2.
    2 points
  2. Made a sweet deal today...traded in the Wing on a 2009 RSV with 30k on it. Has a Mustang seat. Now I need to find a backrest for the seat. Should be ready by Monday.
    1 point
  3. Recently heard stats being discussed about hospitals being overwhelmed here in Columbus, OH. Ohio Health gave some stats for it's facilities having ICUs at 98% capacity, which sounds scary, but it turns out that in total, there were only 14 beds being used for covid related illness. I think they intentionally mislead when putting out this info.
    1 point
  4. I monitor storms for our Firm and wanted to share info here as this thing is growing quick. I can't see to attach the graphics at the Moment so I've attached a PDF of the info. If you can get out of the way of this storm it might be a good idea. Otherwise, stay safe. The eye of hurricane Ida is becoming better defined as crossing Cuba had little to no effect on the storm. Maximum sustained winds have increased to near 85 mph with higher gusts. Rapid strengthening is forecast during the next 24 to 36 hours and Ida is expected to be an extremely dangerous major hurricane when it approaches Gulf coast on Sunday. The SHIPS and LGEM models are showing a little less strengthening than previous runs. However, the HWRF and HMON models continue to forecast Ida to reach Category 4 intensity before landfall with winds approaching 140mph. Please note that these are 2 of 20+ models predicting Cat 4 status. We know this storm will be a strong Category 3 storm. The majority of the models are showing an expansion of the wind field as in it increases in strength. Tropical force winds are expected to affect the coast line beginning Sunday morning. Storm Surges in some areas are expected to be 15 + feet near Morgan City, LA, the mouth of the Mississippi River to Ocean Springs, MS. Overtopping of local levees outside of the Hurricane and Storm Damage Risk Reduction System is possible where local inundation values may be higher. As Ida moves into the Louisiana coast late Sunday, total rainfall accumulations of 8 to 16 inches with isolated maximum amounts of 20 inches are possible across southeast Louisiana and southern Mississippi through Monday. We could see major flooding along Ida's track and in to MS. Flash floods are a high risk along the LA coast to north of Lake Pontchartrain but chances of flash floods cover the entire LA, MS and AL coastlines and extend out to the FL Panhandle, Western AL, MS and portions of TN. Ida.pdf
    1 point
  5. $94 to be exact. I found one in IL, guy shipped Friday, should be early next week. I have my 83 up for sale, some things I'll sell as is, a dripping rear master is not one of those things. There's an oem on ebay.
    1 point
  6. Scary!! That's why we have vaccines and why Marca and I got stabbed. When it gets to be our turn, maybe, just maybe it won't be as bad. As in motorcycles, it's not 'if' you drop your scoot, but 'when'.
    1 point
  7. In my case I’m darn near certain I wasn’t to aggressive with the sandpaper….I’d need to go at it pretty hard with the 1000 grit on the end of a pencil. It could be the cheap “All Balls” rebuild kit I used vs the OEM kit…but at $25 vs $90….I’m a sucker for a deal. Can guarantee once I get another M/C, I’ll be picking up the OEM kit!
    1 point
  8. Maybe true but looking at the age segments in the beginning of this the percentages followed the average ages of other deaths in the previous 10 years. Also, this is survival of the fittest. 94% of those that die from COVID have underlying health issues. These items have only changed slightly. The biggest concern that keeps getting pounded by the media is the asymptomatic carriers. I believe that is what most would have been 200 years ago. moot, point anyway as this virus is man made.
    1 point
  9. The actually make a garage door lube that I use, lube Actually makes the door and hinges quiet as a mouse
    1 point
  10. Trouble is governments never save for rainy days they just spend spend spend until there is nothing left for emergencies. It specially irks me when that spending is applied to some useless oversize trinket they refer to as art and it costs tax payers in the millions.
    1 point
  11. JMHO but i'm thinking we may not be having this discussion and we might be on the extinct list of some other life forms research so they get to do all the debating instead of us.
    1 point
  12. I myself am not a big fan of government interference but sometimes government is left with little choice and if they did not take the steps to ensure things like covid were properly dealt with, who would. For example how safe would our streets be if there were no rules and just anybody could go out buy and drive a car, any old way they felt like it. After all is not their against their constitutional rights to force them to follow any type of traffic law? If anybody could just go out and beat on another person just because they feel like it ( though I must admit there are times when I wish I could ). If anybody could just kick you off your property and take it just because they can (although there are times when big developers seem to be able to do just that ). That's why we elect governments in hopes that they will maintain a semblance of order and unity. (though some times I feel they do take upon themselves more authority then they should be allowed to and other times they do nothing when they should do something. OK so now I hope I confused you all as much as I just confused myself .....But then I guess that's politics......
    1 point
  13. Numbers was not the point here. It was about having consideration for those around you. Ohhhh yes it will. The ones in power will allways be villified by the ones who want to be in power regardless of the decisions made When is the last time a President or Prime minister , wanna be, of an opposing party has said the currant President or Prime Minister is or was doing a good job?
    1 point
  14. Seafoam is my go to for all my small engines. I even mix it with the gas when I fill up my gas cans, and I always store my engines with Seafoam in the tanks and have no issues with startup at the beginning of the seasons. And yes I use it in my Venture all the time and store it with Seafoam and none ethanol gas in the tank. Seafoam is great for keeping the gas fresh also. Not sure how much you but in the tank but on your next fill up I would dump half the can in and go drive it like you stole it. It does help to clean up the carbs when it can get thru the passages to begin with. Rick F.
    1 point
  15. There's two sides to that coin. If someone gets the jab and has complications...side effects...or possibly life changing results or even death....who pays for that? Especially if they've already had covid and have the anti bodies in their system that are statistically much more effective than the "vaccine"...
    1 point
  16. There have been so many people asking about Syncing. the Carbs on their First Gens. that I thought I would take a few pics of the way I do it so that other members would have a general Idea how to go about it. (Disclaimer: My way is not the "do all, be all", just the way I do it. Take what you need and leave the rest.) I start by removing the screw in the false tank cover and unhooking the front of the cover, It does not need to come off. I then remove both side covers. I then remove both of the Radiator side panels to expose the 2 screws that will allow the lower fairing legs to be pulled away from the Carb. Bodies. (NOTE: if your lower fairing legs are in bad shape, you may want to remove the lower cowling which will expose the screws that will allow you to completely remove the lower fairing legs, Mine are still pretty flexible so I don't take them completely off. (Do what you feel "warm and fuzzy" about.) With the plastic off, I start the bike and let it run up to "operating temperature". Pic #1 shows the temp. gage about 1/3 the way up. Depending how "hot blooded" you bike is, this may take a minute or two. While the bike is warming up. Pic #2 shows how I suspend my Carbtune from the ceiling in my shop with a long shoe string and center it right above the gas cap. This allows the Carbtune to remain vertical and also allows me to work both sides of the bike with out moving the Carbtune . At this time, I shut the bike off. Pic #3 shows the location of the Vacuum ports on the right side of the bike, I remove them and plug in the Carbtune on that side. Pic #4 shows the lines installed on the right side. I then move to the left side of the bike, Pic #5 shows the one Vacuum port Cap and the "Boost Sensor" Vacuum line that is connected to Cylinder #2. (NOTE: These pics were taken of an 1987 VR MKII, I don't know if the MKI is the same because I don't own one!) I remove the Vacuum port cap from the #1 cylinder and the Boost Sensor line from the #2 cylinder and Pic #6 shows the two lines from the Carbtune connected. I am now ready to restart the bike. Pic #7 shows how I position a fan at the front of the bike to keep the engine temp. from going too high. I like to take my time when I'm adjusting the Carbs. on a bike and this gives me the extra time. With the bike running and at temp. Pic #8 shows the location of the Idle adjustment screw. (NOTE: I moved the #2 cylinder Carb. Bowl Drain Tube out of the way for the pic. This screw is hard to find unless you are squatting down... and use a flashlight!) Pic #9 shows the Tachometer at 1000 RPMS (By the book 950-1050 RPMS) Pic #10 shows the Carbs. are in fact out of adjustment. I have the left two channels of the Carbtune connected to the left side of the bike, (cylinders #1 and #2.) and the right two channels of the Carbtune connected to the right side of the bike, (Cylinders #3 and #4). Starting on the left side of the bike Pic #11 shows the location of Carb. Sync. screw "A". (NOTE: This is another screw that is hard to see at first, and it is at a downward angle so it will be hard to get a screwdriver on it properly, be patient!) The object here is to rotate "Screw A" until you get the left two channels balanced. Make an adjustment, then "Blip" the throttle and let the bike return to Idle. If needed, adjust again. With the left bank of Carbs. adjusted, I move to the right side of the bike for the rest of the adjustments. Pic #12 shows the location of the "B" and "C" screws. Screw "B" is used to adjust the right two channels of the Carbtune, and Screw "C" is used to adjust the left bank of two Carbs. (Cylinders #1 and #2) to the right bank of Carbs. (Cylinders #3 and #4) Using screw "B" I adjust the right two channels, "blip" the throttle and readjust if necessary. Then I use screw "C" to adjust the left bank to the right, "Blip" the throttle and readjust. Pic #13 shows all four Carbs. on the Carbtune adjusted pretty darn close. Basically, you are done at this point. I wanted to add a few personal suggestions that I use to "enhance" the Carb. Sync. experience to make the bike run even better for me. After I am done with the Carb. Sync. at Idle, I Rev the bike to the 1800 to 2000 RPM range and hold it there, if all four of the Carbs. aren't holding the same vacuum at 2000 RPMS I make slight adjustments (split the difference) between Idle and 2000 RPMS. The reason I do this is because when I am stopped, and start to take off, I increase the RPMS of the bike into the 1800 to 2000 RPMS range as I am slipping the clutch to engagement. I don't want one or more Cylinders "cutting out" or "cutting on" as I am trying to look cool pulling away from a light, especially with Jean on the back! The next issue I would like to address is the "Reliability" of the Carbtune Manometer. Here is a list of Items I purchased to build a simple "Manometer Tester" Manifold. Pic #14 shows the "Manifold". and Pic #15 shows how I test my Carbtune BEFORE I use it. I got these Items from NAPA Auto Supply: Part# 2-616 (2 needed) Vacuum Connector $1.49 each $2.98 Part# H-459 (1 foot needed) 5/32 Vacuum Tubing $.99 1 qty. 1/4-20 screw Free from toolbox 6% Tax (Pa.) $.24 -------- $4.21 Total I hooked all 4 Carbtune lines to the manifold and hooked the Manifold line to one of the carbs. on my 87'VR. My Carbtune checked out OK. If you have any questions, PLEASE feel free to ask. Earl
    1 point
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