Tires.. Whats still available for our bikes?

[cimmer]

HI all, I am in need of a new front tire as my current Avon Cobra tire is just too old to keep riding on. It has held up well but must be 10 years old or older and I was wondering what everyone is now using for front tires. I have notice the section is getting smaller and smaller it seem. I have replaced my rear Avon Cobra due to the tread splitting with a Dunlap Elite 4 I believe but that was a number of years ago also and no longer available it appears. I do keep the bike parked inside when not being road so I hope that helps a bit with keeping in usable shape but I do keep them filed with the proper amount of air pressure and that is checked before each ride.

So let me know what you are running and how you like them.

Thanks

Rick F.

Edited April 24, 2023 by cimmer

[Pasta Burner]

I don’t have much comparison as this is my only set on the VR since it’s new to me but I’m really enjoying the Shinko 777 

[cimmer]

What I am finding in my research is there isnt a lot of choices available for the front tire.  Less and less manufactures are making the 120/90-18s as a front tire.

I plan on going to my local motorcycle shop and seeing what they can get me next week when I am have some time.

Rick F.

[BigChip]

Anybody running a darkside tire setup here?  I was very happy with the double-darkside on my Vulcan Nomad. 

[RDawson]

Several run darkside. I’m on a Nexen. 

[cimmer]

I ended up getting a Dunlop Elite 4 120/90-18 for my new front tire. I have a Dunlop E3 for the rear so they should go well together. I removed an Avon Cobra M41 with a build date of 2309 on it. Tire looked good but I sure was about to trust it any longer with all the riding I am going to get in now that I am retired and have the time to ride.

Rick F.

[Pasta Burner]

On 5/27/2023 at 7:45 PM, cimmer said:

I ended up getting a Dunlop Elite 4 120/90-18 for my new front tire. I have a Dunlop E3 for the rear so they should go well together. I removed an Avon Cobra M41 with a build date of 2309 on it. Tire looked good but I sure was about to trust it any longer with all the riding I am going to get in now that I am retired and have the time to ride.

Rick F.

Love to this!  I’m changing my tires on my sport bike for the first time in probably 15 years…they look good and feel good both riding and by touching them but something in me this year said to swap them out.  I didn’t ride for many years so she just sat stagnant.  When I picked up riding again two years ago I was like these seem brand new.  They gripped and held but it’s time.  

[cimmer]

Mine was 13 years old and had lots of tread left on it but I just wasnt feeling comfortable with it being that old. The bike is stored inside when not being rode so there was no weather checking or splits in the tread or sidewalls. But I plan on a lot more riding and just wanted to be sure. One thing I do add to the tire is a product called Ride-0n.  https://www.ride-on.com/   

It helps to balance the tire and of course protect from nails and such. I do a lot of solo riding out in the middle of no where and just like the peace of mind it brings me.

Rick F.

[FaceDeAce]

Got you beat.  The date code on the tires on this old VR that I am working on bringing back from abandonment and onto the roadways.  The 491 Elite tires look really good with little wear and only a few cracks from sitting out in the sun for a decade or two.  1990 and 1994.  30yrs and 34yrs old tires.  Should be good for the summer, eh?

In my research for the oem sizes Rr 140/90-16, Fr 120/90-18 -- I am down to three that fit the cheaper than dirt budget:   Kenda Kruz K673, Shinko 230, Dunlop 404.

The rear tires seems to have options.  The front tire has limited choices in that oem size. I really like the looks of the Pirelli MT66 tread for the types of roadtops in my area, but the MT66 does not come with a front tire in correct size.  It does have more size options for the rear.  

Hey?  Since this bike is so heavy, what are the pros/cons of running a "rear" tire on the front?  Anyone done that and what are the results/experiences.  If I look at "rear" tires in the front size of 120/90-18 ... that opens up more options.

Looking for suggestions backed by good experiences.  I do not care about mileage life, as I will only occasionally ride.  I also do not care about wet/rain - I have trucks for those days.   Roadways here are good but are NOT smooth blacktop.  Lotsa cracks, pebbles, sand, farm dirt up on the asphalt.  So a "smooth" tire is likely poor choice.    Think low cost, defined tread blocks, smooth and sticky ride.

Edited June 17 by FaceDeAce

[KevinR]

Kenda Kruz 673's have been my choice for at least the past 10 years. They wear great and are very good in rain, on tar snakes and metal bridges, plus, they're one of the best prices you'll ever see.

[FaceDeAce]

Thank you KevinR.  Exactly the type of info I needed.  Ordered up a set of Kruz tires today. 

[FaceDeAce]

The Kruz set arrived. Installed. 
the front tire change was fairly eventful. The rear tire change was a terrible experience. First, had to take front off to get the back end up to be able to take the rear wheel out.  
Then upon taking the old tire off I found it with layers of slime and mold and lord knows what else growing and goo-ing off in there.   Cleaning up the rear rim was an absolutely gross experience.  
once cleaned that rim had lots of pitting corrosion along the bead lines.  I flat filed what I could to knock out and blend the damage.  
on mounting the new rear tire to that rim, I first applied a liberal layer of ultra black RTV to the bead lines. Spooned the tire on.  Then applied a liberal layer of NAPA bead sealant to the tire and rim edge. Aired up to seat the beads and left overnight.  
to my surprise, that tire is sealed and holds pressure.  All good and great!

have since taken the bike out for test ride(s).  The Kruz tires are fantastic. Smooth riding. Lots of grip confidence in the corners.  
 

thanks for the recommendation, and I can definitely +1 on the Kenda Kurtz set for both a quality confidence inspiring ride AND economical replacement price.

 

[FaceDeAce]

4 minutes ago, FaceDeAce said:

 

 

Edited July 12 by FaceDeAce

[FaceDeAce]

Update …. And any troubleshooting tips are much appreciated.  The bike is smooth and rock solid up to 60-65 mph.    At about 75 mph it starts to shimmy/wobble up front.  I am uncertain where to start with this.  It could be that where were fair winds acting on the windshield and fairing bucking me around or that I am a light 180lbs all sweaty and not heavy enough to hold the bike down.

what else could cause this that I should look at?  It is super stable until 70-75 mph, then it shimmy’s around. Scared to go any faster to see if it smooths out or gets worse beyond 75.  
 

[luvmy40]

There are a lot of things that could come into play in this scenario. 

First question would be wheel balancing. Did you balance when you installed the new Kendas?

Next check would be the steering neck bearings and adjustment.

Then I would look at the swingarm bushings/bearings.

[FaceDeAce]

I did not spend much time attempting to balance the tires. In my experience mc tires rarely need balancing.  When I suspended using the shafts (off the bike) for quick check there was little to no movement.  What I am referring to is the feeling that the front tire is squireling around a bit at the higher speeds. There is no vibration or bouncing that would lead me to think a balance problem. 

Thanks. I will have a look at the neck bearing tightness and any other pivot points. If those check out, what else could it be?  Tire pressure maybe, or just a crappy fairing windstream design? It does have quite a tall windshield on it. I may try taking that off and go for a speed run to see if it makes any difference.

 

Edited July 15 by FaceDeAce

[Argo]

First thing I would check would be tire pressure, in particular the rear tire. Low rear tire pressure can do really funny things to handling, especially at higher speeds.

Don't ask how I know.

[Marcarl]

16 hours ago, FaceDeAce said:

Update …. And any troubleshooting tips are much appreciated.  The bike is smooth and rock solid up to 60-65 mph.    At about 75 mph it starts to shimmy/wobble up front.  I am uncertain where to start with this.  It could be that where were fair winds acting on the windshield and fairing bucking me around or that I am a light 180lbs all sweaty and not heavy enough to hold the bike down.

what else could cause this that I should look at?  It is super stable until 70-75 mph, then it shimmy’s around. Scared to go any faster to see if it smooths out or gets worse beyond 75.  
 

If it shimmy's at 75 then it will also do that at 50 or 30, but the right occasion hasn't been able to set it off just yet, You need to fix that!!

[luvmy40]

16 hours ago, FaceDeAce said:

  Tire pressure maybe, or just a crappy fairing windstream design? It does have quite a tall windshield on it. I may try taking that off and go for a speed run to see if it makes any difference.

 

My '83 didn't get squirrely at all at any speed. In fact, it settled down and hugged the road around 90 mph. Over 100 mph, the front end did lighten up, but it never got loose. 

[FaceDeAce]

Front tire is at 40 psi.  Rear tire was at 34ish, I set it to sidewall max 40psi.   Haven’t run up the speed yet to see if this made any difference.

This evening I looked at and tried to tighten the steering stem nut(s).  Boy.  They sure didn’t make some parts simple to get to to adjust did they. It seems like it could be fine. There is just a teeny weeny tin  amount of play. Barely visible when tugging and pushing on front tire with it off the ground. How much is too much?

 

[luvmy40]

There is a "swing test". Someone correct me if I am remembering this wrong.

With the front tire off the ground, nudge the front wheel left or right from center. Moderate push. It should swing to the stop and bounce back slightly. There should be no visible play at the neck when lifting the wheel. There is a torque spec for the center nut, but I do not recall what it is. 

[Marcarl]

6 hours ago, FaceDeAce said:

Front tire is at 40 psi.  Rear tire was at 34ish, I set it to sidewall max 40psi.   Haven’t run up the speed yet to see if this made any difference.

This evening I looked at and tried to tighten the steering stem nut(s).  Boy.  They sure didn’t make some parts simple to get to to adjust did they. It seems like it could be fine. There is just a teeny weeny tin  amount of play. Barely visible when tugging and pushing on front tire with it off the ground. How much is too much?

 

No play is wanted, none! The steering head acts as a steering damper.

[FaceDeAce]

Ok thanks for the tips folks.  So far I have checked and adjusted tire pressures to the max sidewall rating of 40 psi.

the steering post bearing was tough to get to but with a long punch and some contortionisms I managed to tighten it.  Got about a 1/4 turn on it.  There is no play and the steering is now a bit stiff but not so much so to be worried about wrecking the bearing. 
I have not looked at rear linkage bushing yet. Though doubt I’ll find anything there.  The bike has only 42,000 Km on it. Was abandoned in the shrubs for a long time.

I’ll try some test runs this evening with the pumped up tires and tighter post.  

[Marcarl]

If the bearings feel stiff I would suggest they will be too tight and you will find the bike constantly wanted and going it's own way. There should be barely any noticeable drag as you move the bars, but there needs to be some.

                                                    

So the book calls for 5.1 foot lbs on the lower nut, but only finger tight on the next nut. Then when you torque the top nut down it will give just the right amount of pressure to the whole assembly including the nuts. When this procedure is done it's also said to loosen off the pinch bolts for the forks, that way any fork pressure or resistances are minimized.