Zippy69 Posted March 9, 2016 Share #1 Posted March 9, 2016 Howdy folks. I was an active member here a couple of years ago, while working on a 83 with carb issues and whatnot. Got disgusted with that and scrapped the whole project. Now I just bought an 87 venture royal that ran great when I rode it home, so i changed the plugs and it started right up and ran even better. Then I replaced the fuses in the fuse holder with inline fuses because the prongs were broke on a few, now no display at all. It lights up, but no neutral light or anything and also won't start the bike. Any ideas on what happened after the fuse change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueSky Posted March 9, 2016 Share #2 Posted March 9, 2016 Welcome back! Photos of the new ride would be wonderful! Sounds like you just need to look very carefully at the changes you made and you will find the issue. There is a manual on this site you can download. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyday58 Posted March 9, 2016 Share #3 Posted March 9, 2016 Piccy of your wiring job in HD would help us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted March 9, 2016 Share #4 Posted March 9, 2016 Any ideas on what happened after the fuse change? You might have 'popped' another fuse elsewhere in the process. Did you disconnect the battery when re-doing the fuses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 9, 2016 Share #5 Posted March 9, 2016 There is another small fuse panel in front of the battery. check those fuses to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share #6 Posted March 9, 2016 Thanks for the input. I put an inline fuse for the ignition, headlight and turn signals. The metal prongs started breaking, so thats what started this whole process. Also, when you hit the starter button, the lights go out. I'll try to post up some pics later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etcswjoe Posted March 10, 2016 Share #7 Posted March 10, 2016 Welcome back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share #8 Posted March 10, 2016 Ok. Checked all fuses. All good. Checked as much wiring I could get to, nothing obvious. I've always been less than proficient with electronics, so that may be part of my problem. Also, the tail light wire leaving the fuse goes to ground, but the fuse didn't blow, but the wire and fuse holder got hot. I hope this project does not go like the other one. Pissed me off because the bike ran good on the way home. I figured I would change the plugs and be golden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueSky Posted March 10, 2016 Share #9 Posted March 10, 2016 An 87 is 29 years old! You need determination and Cowpuc's mechanic skills. I have an 89. That's how I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 10, 2016 Share #10 Posted March 10, 2016 Ok. Checked all fuses. All good. Checked as much wiring I could get to, nothing obvious. I've always been less than proficient with electronics, so that may be part of my problem. Also, the tail light wire leaving the fuse goes to ground, but the fuse didn't blow, but the wire and fuse holder got hot. I hope this project does not go like the other one. Pissed me off because the bike ran good on the way home. I figured I would change the plugs and be golden. This sounds like a problem. fuses are all on the hot side not on the ground side. Check all of your crimped connections, I have seen it where the wire was pushed in to far and the crimp was done over the insulation instead of the stripped end of the wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
van avery Posted March 11, 2016 Share #11 Posted March 11, 2016 Start checking your positive wires with a old headlight back to ground. You may have a fuse connection that will pass 12 volt with a VOM but when you place a load (headlight ) on it will not pass the load. About drove me nuts on a old Goldwing, I kept finding 12 volt until I tried to start it then nothing. The load from a headlight showed the problem back at a main fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share #12 Posted March 12, 2016 The first pic shows the inline fuses the second shows the fuse block and whats left wired in. the third shows the display. No neutral light, fuel gauge etc. What send the info to the display? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted March 12, 2016 Share #13 Posted March 12, 2016 No neutral light, fuel gauge etc. What send the info to the display? The "SIGNAL" fuse (Brown wire in, Brown wire out). In your picture, I don't see any wire coming out of one end of the upper (in pic) yellow fuse holder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share #14 Posted March 12, 2016 Its there, just behind fuse holder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share #15 Posted March 13, 2016 Update: Still cant find any obvious issue. Going to change out the fuse holders with ATC type, hoping maybe the glass fuses are crap. Also, forgot to mention that the bike never had power to the CLASS. I have no idea if that has anything to do with the situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share #16 Posted March 13, 2016 An 87 is 29 years old! You need determination and Cowpuc's mechanic skills. I have an 89. That's how I know. Send him my way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WildBill1 Posted March 13, 2016 Share #17 Posted March 13, 2016 Update: Still cant find any obvious issue. Going to change out the fuse holders with ATC type, hoping maybe the glass fuses are crap. Also, forgot to mention that the bike never had power to the CLASS. I have no idea if that has anything to do with the situation.[/quote Before you go to all the trouble in changing all the glass fuse holders out check your grounded connections. 90 percent of the time on a 12V dc system that's where your problem lies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted March 14, 2016 Share #18 Posted March 14, 2016 Going to change out the fuse holders with ATC type Go here for my write up about changing my fuseblock on my 1990: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?66650-Upgraded-and-updated-Fuse-block%28s%29&highlight=fuse+block And here is the before picture of my 1991 fuse situation: And here is the after: Also, forgot to mention that the bike never had power to the CLASS. The CLASS fuse is in the rubber inline fuse holder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share #19 Posted March 14, 2016 That looks nice and tidy. I checked the class fuse and it was fine. Does power go through the computer and then out to everything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 18, 2016 Author Share #20 Posted March 18, 2016 Finally found the issue!!!. It was the glass fuses. The signal fuse had broken loose inside. Still looked intact, and even had continuity through my meter, but wouldn't flow the juice. Replaced everything with ATC fuses and all is good. Now the issue is with the CLASS. It shows an E4 error, but it only lights up when switch is in acc.When ignition is on, it stays blank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 18, 2016 Share #21 Posted March 18, 2016 perfect The class is only supposed to work in ACC The E4 code is a common issue for a bad solder joint on the PC board. Very easy to fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewbeeMC9 Posted March 18, 2016 Share #22 Posted March 18, 2016 perfect The class is only supposed to work in ACC The E4 code is a common issue for a bad solder joint on the PC board. Very easy to fix. Yep, only in ACC, and excellent write up here in the tech library, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?493-CLASS-E4-Error-Repair fixed my e4 code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share #23 Posted March 20, 2016 Well, I pulled the board from the class control unit, and re-soldered all the connections, Boom! Working air system. The front will only pump up to about 21-23 psi though. I stopped the rear at 80psi. Everything seems to work, auto to manual, front/rear,etc. Just wondering about the front pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutKast Posted March 20, 2016 Share #24 Posted March 20, 2016 Update: Still cant find any obvious issue. Going to change out the fuse holders with ATC type, hoping maybe the glass fuses are crap. Also, forgot to mention that the bike never had power to the CLASS. I have no idea if that has anything to do with the situation. The class fuse is in a separate inline holder all by itself (it was optional on early models) and is only powered with the key in Accessory. There are numerous threads on here showing changing out the fuse holder, and in the classifieds Skydoc has a kit if you are not comfortable making it up yourself. Each fuse has its own feed because some are hot Accessory only, some ON only, and some both, so you need an inline type fuse box, not a standard with one hot connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zippy69 Posted March 20, 2016 Author Share #25 Posted March 20, 2016 Thanks, but I got it working, just wondering about the pressure in the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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