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Did you install your passing lamps?


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I was thinking about getting some passing lamps for my RSV, and was wondering if you folks installed them yourself, or had the dealer do it. I looked in the tech section and read the install instructions, which seemed somewhat involved. Is this an easy thing to?

Thanks,

Dale.

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Mine were installed when I got the bike. But I have had them off dozens of times to get into the fairing. I would think it is a maybe 3-4 on a 10 scale difficulty. Biggest thing is if you are going to install the light bar you really need to install on a relay and its own source of power from battery. not thru the headlight circuit or however the dealer does it.

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Guest divey
I was thinking about getting some passing lamps for my RSV, and was wondering if you folks installed them yourself, or had the dealer do it. I looked in the tech section and read the install instructions, which seemed somewhat involved. Is this an easy thing to?

Thanks,

Dale.

 

Dealer installed mine but Eck's instructions look fairly clear. Mine has a separate on/off switch on the inside of the fairing I suppose if you ever wanted to turn them off completely but I run mine constantly (on high beam through the day). On low beam, the passing lamps are off.

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I installed mine and several sets on other members bikes, it really is an easy procedure if you follow all of the instructions and add a power relay, rather than following the dealer suggested power source.:detective:

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I installed my own too. Make sure you include a relay which the dealer won't do.

The write up is easy to follow. Talk to SlowRollWV and get a passing light spacer. That way when you want to get inside the fairing you don't have to take the passing lights off.

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I installed mine myself. It really wasn't that bad. I hooked mine up so that they have power all the time. I didn't like the cheap switch that the kit came with, so I bought a nice toggle switch from Radio Shack. The degree of difficulty for someone else is hard to say. It would need to be determined by your mechanical ability. Good uck. :beer:

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I'm working on a friends bike troubleshooting a start problem. I'm into the fairing so I can OH out the thumb button. He just had a dealer install passing lights first part of the year. It sickens me to see scotch locks, and a glass fuse and some flimsy looking bullet connectors. Argh and I can only imagine what they charged him.

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I'm working on a friends bike troubleshooting a start problem. I'm into the fairing so I can OH out the thumb button. He just had a dealer install passing lights first part of the year. It sickens me to see scotch locks, and a glass fuse and some flimsy looking bullet connectors. Argh and I can only imagine what they charged him.

 

you just described the Yamaha accessories kit.

comes with scotch locks and glass fuse, and your correct, it sux

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Well somewhere on her is instructions on how to do it. Its pretty simple, the most work is probably removing the gas tank.

Importance. HMMMM Well the instructions tell you to connect to the headlight circuit. Best I can tell it has a 15 amp fuse in it, so reason would tell you that it requires minimum of about 10 amp or so to operate with a little left over for fudge factor rite? The passing lights come with a 10 amp fuse and they want you to connect to the headlight circuit that already has minimum 10 amps draw. Kind of like running all the lights in your house thru one light switch.

Here is a pic of my OEM fuse holder for the passing lights when I discovered it. Surprising thing was they still worked. Think they draw a little voltage?

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I think I basically took that schematic and used the wire they installed to power the passing lights for the "trip" on the relay. that way it works with the lights and not when they are off. Save a guy from having to hunt for a key on power source.

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Well somewhere on her is instructions on how to do it. Its pretty simple, the most work is probably removing the gas tank.

Importance. HMMMM Well the instructions tell you to connect to the headlight circuit. Best I can tell it has a 15 amp fuse in it, so reason would tell you that it requires minimum of about 10 amp or so to operate with a little left over for fudge factor rite? The passing lights come with a 10 amp fuse and they want you to connect to the headlight circuit that already has minimum 10 amps draw. Kind of like running all the lights in your house thru one light switch.

Here is a pic of my OEM fuse holder for the passing lights when I discovered it. Surprising thing was they still worked. Think they draw a little voltage?

 

Sheesh... If I have to take the gas tank off, I'm out. That sounds like it could go horribly wrong for a guy with little mechanical skills.

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I am watching this thread too, as I will be installing mine shortly , I already have the spacer so I don't have to remove the lights to op open the fairing...

 

thanks to Slowroll for making up such a great piece that Yamaha should have engineered in the first place.

 

Brian

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Sheesh... If I have to take the gas tank off, I'm out. That sounds like it could go horribly wrong for a guy with little mechanical skills.

 

Little wiring experience is all you need to do it. For the gas tank... VERY simple - just make sure you are low on gas, makes it easier to lift and put back on. If tank is full it is heavier but it won't stop you from lifting it.

 

Passing lights are a good place to start with doing your own work. Accomplish this and you'll have confidence in doing other work.

 

If anyone in Ontario wants assistance doing it or rewiring it from the way the dealers do it, I'm willing to assist.

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First time I ran wires up under the tank I had no idea how it came off. I actually used some mechanics wire as a fish tape up under the gas tank and then pulled the new wire thru with it. The gas tank is pretty easy. Like was mentioned, low fuel level makes it easier.

Turn petcock off, remove the clamp. Mine was a simple squeeze clamp and I put a 3/16 bolt in it to keep fuel from running out from carb side. 2 front bolts are 5mm allen heads they are in a triangle looking rubber piece at front side of tank. the rear is a regular 12mm bolt head. Lift tank up at rear then up a little and sort of slide back. Here is a thread with pictures and everything. So simple a cave man could do it.

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I installed my own too. Make sure you include a relay which the dealer won't do.

The write up is easy to follow. Talk to SlowRollWV and get a passing light spacer. That way when you want to get inside the fairing you don't have to take the passing lights off.

 

I have the spacer SlowRoll makes. I do not have any use for it. PM me, for anyone interested.

 

The light bar came with mine, but did change out the lamps for the LED, courtesy of Big Mike eusa1 over the phone help!!

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I had the dealer do mine because I didn't want to split the fairing.

And a week later, out of town, the fuse blew. The dealer fixed it, no charge, but we put in a an auto type inline fuse and strung it to the rider side of the fairing where you access the headlight adjustment.

SO, I have a nice yellow rubber fuse holder poking out. Like below but YELLOW!

If it should pop, I don't have to go into the fairing.

 

(But those glass fuses and holders tend to arc and pop. Regardless, replace that with something better.)

 

PS: and, mine are always on. I want to be seen.

 

http://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/WMFH-led-installation-supply-store.jpg

Waterproof Mini Automotive Fuse Holder

 

 

 

 

 

 

close

Edited by Mike G in SC
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I installed mine myself. But I did not use the OEM instructions as I feel that puts unneeded load on the ignition circuit. I drew power straight from battery then used a relay. I also did not pull my relay power from either hi or lo beam as I wanted full control of my passing lights. I have mine wired to one of three switches on my brake reservoir switch box. This way I turn them on when I want them on, which is usually all the time. I think some state laws say they can burn only when on either hi or lo beam. But I will occasionally fracture a state suggestion.

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I had the dealer do mine because I didn't want to split the fairing.

And a week later, out of town, the fuse blew. The dealer fixed it, no charge, but we put in a an auto type inline fuse and strung it to the rider side of the fairing where you access the headlight adjustment.

SO, I have a nice yellow rubber fuse holder poking out. Like below but YELLOW!

If it should pop, I don't have to go into the fairing.

 

I've NEVER blown the fuse on my passing lights in the four years I've had the bike and I installed them myself.

 

You might want to split the fairing and see if the fuse is fed from the battery to a relay to the lights.

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Mine Still worked, even though it looked like ka-ka. I was doing some other stuff and saw the ugly looking thing and tried to open it. SNAP.I too replaced it with the same style fuses that are used on the bike. I figure why carry 3 different kinds of fuses.

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