comingbackdown Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share #26 Posted July 3, 2014 It's a lot easier to test first on the circuit. Since it sounds like your high beam is fine, it indicates the dimmer switch is getting good power supply (common to both beams). If you have windshield off, and the hood over top of dash off....go to the large plug behind CMS display. The headlight circuit has an input to CMS and output to the headlight for high and low beam. Connector hooked up, backprobe the following wires versus a good ground. High beam selected should be battery voltage on Yellow (input) and Yellow/Green (output) wires. Low beam selected should be battery voltage on Green (input) and Green/Red (output) If good voltage in, but low out, check CMS unit for solder joint issues. If low in, check dimmer switch and wiring to CMS. If good voltage in and out, inspect wiring from CMS and socket. Low output voltage... Damn I was hoping it was just a dirty contact in the switch... Oh well, I guess I get to tear the CMS out tomorrow night. I guess it could be worse. The other day I went to adjust the bars, took about an hour due to rust and corrosion. Sight glasses on the reservoirs are clouded, went to check the fluid and took the slots out of one screw per cap, wound up replacing three of them, had to use the screw-outs. Finally got the caps off, brake reservoir is alright, fluid is clear. Clutch side the fluid is black. Gotta drain and replace. *sigh* I love repairing braking systems. I HATE bleeding them. Still have to adjust the pegs. Went to adjust the hand controls up higher so I can grip them. Moved the hand controls, was playing around with the throttle. It doesn't return on its own. Pulled the grip off, and got showered with rust. Worked the throttle sans grip, rust coming from everywhere. Looks like I may need new cables. Between that and the rebuild kit for the rear master I've got over $100 in parts. Yay. Talked to my insurance agent today. Insurance is about twenty bucks cheaper per month than my car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 3, 2014 Share #27 Posted July 3, 2014 OK the biggest no-no is using sae Phillips screwdrivers on JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) screws! You will strip the heads out just about every time!! The JIS and SAE have different angles. Get yourself some JIS screwdrivers before you wreck any more screws... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comingbackdown Posted July 3, 2014 Author Share #28 Posted July 3, 2014 OK the biggest no-no is using sae Phillips screwdrivers on JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) screws! You will strip the heads out just about every time!! The JIS and SAE have different angles. Get yourself some JIS screwdrivers before you wreck any more screws... Wouldn't have mattered much in this case anyway, since they were all rusted half to bits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus1300 Posted July 3, 2014 Share #29 Posted July 3, 2014 JIS Screwdrivers are easy to find, go Vessel and they have a motorcycle set in all three sizes (1, 2, 3) http://www.vesseltools.com Clutch bleeding is simple: if you look just above where the shift lever is you will see a square rubber cap. Pull that up and you will see the bleeder screw. It is easier to bleed if you remove the Aluminum cover, there several Allen head screws and the bottom one has a copper washer on it. Remember where this one goes. BTW once you get the cover off put that screw back in the hole so it doesn't drip all over everything. Bleeding from there is simple but remember to cover the area under the master cylinder so you don't get brake fluid on your paint or plastic. Use DOT 3 or DOT 4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comingbackdown Posted July 9, 2014 Author Share #30 Posted July 9, 2014 After a mind boggling amount of successive minor setbacks, I have a working low beam! Thank you all very much! That leaves me with one really good question. Battery light has been on since before the resolder, isn't off now either. So... I pulled the top cover again and took a good look at everything. Wire moved upward a tic for emphasis, but as you can see something is NOT quite right here... http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o187/sickmusician/Bike/IMG_20140625_002525.jpg It was just hanging loose there, no idea what it is or where it goes, but I suspect this MAY have something to do with the battery light, and regardless it needs to not be hanging loose under there able to put current through anything that it touches. Looks like someone has maybe played with the fusebox a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted July 9, 2014 Share #31 Posted July 9, 2014 After a mind boggling amount of successive minor setbacks, I have a working low beam! Thank you all very much! That leaves me with one really good question. Battery light has been on since before the resolder, isn't off now either. So... I pulled the top cover again and took a good look at everything. Wire moved upward a tic for emphasis, but as you can see something is NOT quite right here... http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o187/sickmusician/Bike/IMG_20140625_002525.jpg It was just hanging loose there, no idea what it is or where it goes, but I suspect this MAY have something to do with the battery light, and regardless it needs to not be hanging loose under there able to put current through anything that it touches. Looks like someone has maybe played with the fusebox a bit. The red wire attached to the positive battery terminal is not safe. The cut end could short to the frame and with no fuse, there would be a risk of melted wire or battery damage. The red wire is not OEM. It is presumably a 12 volt tap for a previous owner installed accessory. The reason your battery low electrolyte warning light is on, is because the battery electrolyte level sensor is missing or disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 9, 2014 Share #32 Posted July 9, 2014 What he said!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted July 9, 2014 Share #33 Posted July 9, 2014 ...Fortunately, the gentleman I've asked to get me started is a lifelong rider. He's going to ride it to a parking lot, and I'm going to spend some serious time on it under close supervision. .... No one else has suggested it yet, but spend a weekend on a motorcycle course. If you've taken one years ago, take a refresher. It will be worth what they charge you for a weekend rather than having to replace parts on the 1st Gen because you were inexperienced. Even lifelong riders aren't perfect. Ask anyone here that has been riding for years and you'll find people that admit they have bad habits. Unless your friend is a riding instructor, he won't be perfect. My opinion on learning to ride in a parking lot with a Venture... you'll be going slow...and that will become discouraging. Slow speed handling is difficult on the Venture. Better to do parking lot training during a course on a smaller bike. If you make a mistake doing slow speed turns you'll lay the bike down. And if you try to put your foot down to stop it from going over while moving forward you'll hurt yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbig1 Posted July 9, 2014 Share #34 Posted July 9, 2014 there is a capacitor to put in battery sensor wire to get rid of light. its in the forum prob in tec cant remember im thinking was green black wire. but find the article I could be wrong. I spent about three dollars on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted July 9, 2014 Share #35 Posted July 9, 2014 I'm with you, Don. I started riding when dinos ruled the Earth...took a breather for the military, career and family. The first thing I did when the decision was made to get back in the saddle was follow a friend's advice and take the course. I learned many new things, like, how NOT to lay the bike down in an emergency!! Did I feel like an idiot being one of two people who had ridden before? Nope. Felt good knowing if I made a mistake, my bike wouldn't be hurt!! Felt good learning. Felt real good knowing I didn't have to take the state test with some yahoo judging me so I could get my MC endorsement! Good course...I recommend it for everyone...every few years. That plus the advance course is on my radar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dna9656 Posted July 9, 2014 Share #36 Posted July 9, 2014 (edited) there is a capacitor to put in battery sensor wire to get rid of light. its in the forum prob in tec cant remember im thinking was green black wire. but find the article I could be wrong. I spent about three dollars on it. He means there is a RESISTOR you can put in the circuit to fix this. After chasing bubbles for a week this is my exp. Don't DRAIN the brakes/or clutch and refill to bleed. This isn't a car and won't bleed exactly like a car does. Remove SOME fluid and using FRESH bake fluid flush many times keeping the reservoir full as is reasonable, also re-install the res cap before pumping the brake handle of you'll have brake fluid all over the bike. Getting air out of these systems (esp. the front brake) is tedious. Check out the tech library for tips on bleeding. You may want to bite the bullet and rebuild the brake calipers, master cylinders and the clutch system. On my bike the masters were both fine but the calipers were full of gunky, somewhat gooy, somewhat solidified brake fluid and some rust. 0000 Steel wool took care of the rust on the caliper piston. If you have a source of compressed air it will be big help. If you never overhauled a brake caliper before you know what's involved here, if not no worries; it's pretty straight forward. There are links here to download the manual, you can also get it on EBay. I bought a "Tech Spark" manual on EBay, you download it and it's (IMHO) better than the factory manual in that it's more easily searched AND has a how to do things on motor cycles in general section. This manual is STILL the FSM (Factory Service Manual) jst with some extra touches. You'll find the FSM is big on telling you WHAT has to be done but lacking on the HOW it's done. This is Yamaha supporting it's dealers, the mechs there get training from Yamaha and have videos too. Many of these videos are available here and at Youtube. BTW Youtube has a ton of Venture stuff. I started out in mini bikes and small dirt bikes, my first REAL bike was a Yamaha XS 750 Triple, with a drive shaft and it had an electric starter AND a kick start! Only bike I ever saw that had both but I'm reasonably sure it wasn't the only one so equipped. I saw my first VR in 96, bought it and loved it, some guy took a left turn in front of me and totaled my beautiful VR and broke my arm so bad they rebuilt it using spare parts from my hip. I didn't have her long enough to learn much, just a couple of oil changes, brake pads, windshield, and the best riding experience I ever had. I have 2 VRs, the 83.5 it's XVZ12DKC2, the parts for it are in the '84 model year catalog (go figure) and my almost daily rider. The 85 is the #4 bike off the line with the 2nd gear issue you heard about with the official factory fix. She in pretty rough shape. When I took the oil filter off I found a huge weld across the surface that is under the filter proper from one side of the O ring surface to the other. This what happens when you buy a bike in the dark, I also found a SKID PLATE under the engine. It must be 1 HUGE DUDE that uses a 1200CC, 750 odd pound touring bike to go off roading. But I have a transmission with the fix, LOTS of spare parts, and a test bed to fit mods to then install on my 83.5. So be careful learning to handle her, she's top heavy and WILL fall over REAL easy if you stop in a turn, have short legs (like me), or try to push her around the shop with the side stand up. Oh and speaking of the side stand; get yourself down there and make sure the nut and bolt on the side stand are serviceable (tightened to spec, not cracked, or otherwise FUBAR) also check the "ear" the side stand is bolted to. Also after a Thorough washing (a good washing can take ALL DAY) check your frame under the engine all the way back, some frames were thin and buckled. Parts: parts are available from all over the Internet. Amazon, EBay, and other vendors you'll learn about here on this forum and on www.venturers.org. Please patronize the sites that recognize our forums, sometimes you get a nice discount! Some folks on the forum sell parts too! Long winded ain't I? Edited July 10, 2014 by dna9656 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comingbackdown Posted July 10, 2014 Author Share #37 Posted July 10, 2014 My opinion on learning to ride in a parking lot with a Venture... you'll be going slow...and that will become discouraging. Slow speed handling is difficult on the Venture. Better to do parking lot training during a course on a smaller bike. If you make a mistake doing slow speed turns you'll lay the bike down. And if you try to put your foot down to stop it from going over while moving forward you'll hurt yourself. Actually, as far as my driveway is concerned, she's been a joy at a snail's pace. Lot of clutch feathering to keep her at such a low speed through the tighter turns though. She really wants to cut loose once the clutch is out. As far as the lot I plan to use is concerned, it's a loop. I could run my truck in circles around it at about thirtyish. I realize this gentleman is not perfect, but he's going to teach me the absolute basics so that I can get the bike going and navigate roads without winding up on my arse ten seconds in. I'm not taking it as the be all and end all, but he can get me started. I have every intention of taking a course. Not only will doing so allow me to skip the skills test for my endorsement, it will also fill in any gaps in basic knowledge that I may have. Issue being, I won't be able to take the course for a month or two due to my work schedule. Rest assured though, it is in the plans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted July 10, 2014 Share #38 Posted July 10, 2014 I would suggest you also replace the glass fuse block with the spade fuses. Lots of folks (myself included) have had issues with the contacts cracking or breaking off the 30 year old fuse block. That will give you a chance to clean up the wiring while you are at it and install a power source (cigarette lighter) for charging your gps or cell phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comingbackdown Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share #39 Posted July 11, 2014 I would suggest you also replace the glass fuse block with the spade fuses. Lots of folks (myself included) have had issues with the contacts cracking or breaking off the 30 year old fuse block. That will give you a chance to clean up the wiring while you are at it and install a power source (cigarette lighter) for charging your gps or cell phone. I was thinking the same thing when I pulled the top cover. Like "dang, they don't make 'em like that anymore!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comingbackdown Posted July 11, 2014 Author Share #40 Posted July 11, 2014 The red wire attached to the positive battery terminal is not safe. The cut end could short to the frame and with no fuse, there would be a risk of melted wire or battery damage. The red wire is not OEM. It is presumably a 12 volt tap for a previous owner installed accessory. The reason your battery low electrolyte warning light is on, is because the battery electrolyte level sensor is missing or disconnected. I do believe I've found the origins of our mysterious red wire and the cause of the sudden battery light all in one go. When I went to remove said wire, I took a serious look around, and found a spade connector (which I'm assuming was rather poorly crimped to our mysterious red wire) hooked up to a terminal in a connector with a red/white wire coming from it. I'm assuming this is the wire for the battery sensor? Drained the clutch reservoir close to empty with a syringe, refilled, capped, bleed, refilled, bled, refilled... You get the picture. Anyhow, clean fluid coming from the bleeder, no mush in the control lever, seems good. Can't test it as it's nearly two in the morning, so that will have to wait until after work tomorrow. I'm hoping the response will be a tiny bit better with clean fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted July 11, 2014 Share #41 Posted July 11, 2014 ...with a red/white wire coming from it. I'm assuming this is the wire for the battery sensor? Yes, the white wire with a red stripe is the lead that sends the electrolyte level sensor signal to the CMS. DO NOT connect full battery voltage to the white/red wire (as apparently the PO did). You need to insert a resistor inline between a 12 volt source and the sensor lead to extinguish the battery electrolyte level warning light. The old tried and true method called for a 2.2K ohm resistor, but some have maintained that the resistor value should be 22K ohm to mimic the original sensor voltage. Either value will work. Hopefully, there was no permanent damage done to the CMS because of the excessive voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg_in_london Posted July 11, 2014 Share #42 Posted July 11, 2014 Guess I'll start with draining the system and replacing the fluid. Errr.... This may be a little late and I noticed you said that you'd emptied the clutch master cylinder with a syringe, but... You don't drain a brake system and refill it, you pump fresh fluid through, otherwise you'll need to use up a lot more fluid (and time) bleeding the system afterwards than you saved in clean fluid flushing the old through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comingbackdown Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share #43 Posted July 12, 2014 You don't drain a brake system and refill it, you pump fresh fluid through, otherwise... Didn't drain it completely, sucked out some of the serious nasty and some of the junk floating in the bottom so that I didn't mix it throughout the fresh fluid I was adding to clean the system. That said, clutch works better, smoother, fired her up, warmed her up. Ditched the clutch feathering, got her all the way released and ran circles 'round the driveway. Yeehaw! Should be getting my safety gear tomorrow afternoon. Whoooo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechanic1 Posted July 12, 2014 Share #44 Posted July 12, 2014 ...I know that many have cautioned you about the 1st gen as a first bike...but I just got to say....it had been about 20 years since I had rode a bike...and never one so heavy....I did buy a 750 virago and rode it a year cause it was cheap and figured if I got skinned, scared of it or killed I didn't need a lot of money tied up in it.....the '83 virago is a WORLD of difference in the way it handles and the 800lb. venture....much lower center of gravity and much more forgiving at slow speed....also it is light enough if you get into trouble with it you can Muscle" your way out of it.....unless you have green skin (the HULK) ...you ain't doing that with the Venture so much. Now...don't get me wrong...I love my '86 Venture...but honestly...even after many hours of seat time on it....slow speed makes me edgy....Please be EXTREMELY careful till you get so time with it....then just really, really careful any time you get close to it...lol....the gut sold mine to me cause it got on him in his garage....he was moving it and he didn't sweep the floor first that time and his foot slipped. I have had more near misses at slow speed....coming to a stop or while stopped than any other time...especially if me wife is on and moves unexpectedly (big caution on that one,...in her mind was safer to move or do stuff at slow speed or stopped....worst possible time) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comingbackdown Posted July 14, 2014 Author Share #45 Posted July 14, 2014 Until today, all I'd done was under ten miles per hour. Still haven't been on the roads. Learning some hill starts, some practice. Thus far, it's pretty epic! I am absolutely in LOVE with this bike! When I was working on her, I was sitting in the saddle, forgot to put the kickstand down and got off the bike. Next thing I know, I'm pinned between the bike and a wood pile. Even better, mom's car was the object in the opposite direction, so if she'd gone over the other way ma probably would've flattened me. Believe me, I found out right then just how heavy she is. I can go to the gym and run 400 lbs on leg extensions like child's play. It took some serious muscle control and thought, and near everything I had to set her back up. That thing is MASSIVE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peder_y2k Posted July 14, 2014 Share #46 Posted July 14, 2014 After a mind boggling amount of successive minor setbacks, I have a working low beam! Thank you all very much! That leaves me with one really good question. Battery light has been on since before the resolder, isn't off now either. So... I pulled the top cover again and took a good look at everything. Wire moved upward a tic for emphasis, but as you can see something is NOT quite right here... http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o187/sickmusician/Bike/IMG_20140625_002525.jpg It was just hanging loose there, no idea what it is or where it goes, but I suspect this MAY have something to do with the battery light, and regardless it needs to not be hanging loose under there able to put current through anything that it touches. Looks like someone has maybe played with the fusebox a bit. Looks more like it went to that toggle switch on the left in the pic. If there's nothing for the toggle switch to operate, take that wire lead off the battery post. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted July 14, 2014 Share #47 Posted July 14, 2014 Until today, all I'd done was under ten miles per hour. Still haven't been on the roads. Learning some hill starts, some practice. Thus far, it's pretty epic! I am absolutely in LOVE with this bike! When I was working on her, I was sitting in the saddle, forgot to put the kickstand down and got off the bike. Next thing I know, I'm pinned between the bike and a wood pile. Even better, mom's car was the object in the opposite direction, so if she'd gone over the other way ma probably would've flattened me. Believe me, I found out right then just how heavy she is. I can go to the gym and run 400 lbs on leg extensions like child's play. It took some serious muscle control and thought, and near everything I had to set her back up. That thing is MASSIVE!Yup!!! When that beast want's to take a nap, let it!! It will stop at the crash guards... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted July 14, 2014 Share #48 Posted July 14, 2014 there's a link on here somewhere on how to pick up these beasts. basically turn your back to it and use your legs to walk it up. NOTE: doesn't work if you are pinned under it against wood pile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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