pa_don Posted April 28, 2013 Share #1 Posted April 28, 2013 Ok... I know this will bring about some varied replies... Currently using "standard" (non-synthetic) oil on my Hannigan trike. I am considering changing to synthetic but am on the fence. If I don't change, what brands do others recommend staying with? If I do change, is there a recommended procedure to clear out the old oil before adding the new synthetic? I have head lots of good things about the Rotella but I do worry about clutch slippage. pa_don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted April 28, 2013 Share #2 Posted April 28, 2013 I tried running synthetic on my motorcycle but did not like it. I found my engine mostly the valves just sounded a lot noisier so I switched back to regular MC oil. Can't comment from personal experience re: rotella though it is very popular among many riders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted April 28, 2013 Share #3 Posted April 28, 2013 Just make sure what ever you use that it is rated for motorcycles. Rotella t6 or mobil 1 seem to be the most popular. I use rotella, works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etcswjoe Posted April 28, 2013 Share #4 Posted April 28, 2013 Rotella T6 Full Synthetic is what I use too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted April 28, 2013 Share #5 Posted April 28, 2013 Just make sure what ever you use that it is rated for motorcycles. Rotella t6 or mobil 1 seem to be the most popular. I use rotella, works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reddevilmedic Posted April 28, 2013 Share #6 Posted April 28, 2013 I was running amsoil, but switched to a sportbike oil for the Yammy crotches. thinner, I figured it would help with the oil-cooled stator issue. so far, so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2WHEELSFORME Posted April 28, 2013 Share #7 Posted April 28, 2013 You are changing because ???????????! All oil is very good! syn, dino, car oil no mater just change it per the manuals suggested mileage. Might stay away from friction mods but even that won't make a good clutch slip. No one ever, that I know of has had a problem due to the type oil they use. "I use _______ and have never had a problem so it must be the best. Insert your brand in blank space. Besides: http://fineartbymary.com/smilies/horse2.gif http://fineartbymary.com/smilies/horse2.gif http://fineartbymary.com/smilies/horse2.gif http://fineartbymary.com/smilies/horse2.gif Sorry it sounds meaner than I meant for it to but just making fun of all the GREAT OIL DEBATES. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G in SC Posted April 28, 2013 Share #8 Posted April 28, 2013 "I use AMSOIL and have never had a problem so it must be the best. Insert your brand in blank space. . Thanks, that fits. Mike G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted April 28, 2013 Share #9 Posted April 28, 2013 (edited) On any oil change there will be some 'old' oil left, but its not enough to worry about, as far as doing anything special. Just change the filter at the same time, and run it for 3000-5000 miles, depending on your preference and whether its mostly short-hopping or pulling a trailer. At the next oil change, with ~3.5 quarts of synthetic installed, you can consider it fully synthetic now. I didnt like the synthetics in my Venture, they seemed to make the transmission a little harder to shift, but others here have posted that they notice an improvement. Just make sure that any oil you use, is rated JASO and/or 'MA', and NOT energy-conserving...its not good for our wet clutch. From Wikipedia: The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) has created their own set of performance and quality standards for petrol engines of Japanese origin. For four-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, and the JASO T904-MB standard is not suitable for wet clutch use. These standards, especially JASO-MA (for motorcycles) and JASO-FC, are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage. An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label. More info here: http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php Edited April 28, 2013 by tx2sturgis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoey04 Posted April 28, 2013 Share #10 Posted April 28, 2013 dont know if u can get Motuel down there have been using it for years , but am changing to Rotella t-6 it is the same as Motuel but at half the price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbroughman Posted April 29, 2013 Share #11 Posted April 29, 2013 Been using Rotella 15-40 in my 01 RSV for past 4 yrs now, bike just turned 100,000 miles a couple months ago, have had no problems whats so ever, anything the whin in the clutch is less than it was. Like the price of oil changes (every 5000 miles), under 20.00 bucks compared to 60.00. But what ever works for you and makes you happy, go for it, as long as the wheels keep turning it is a good oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pa_don Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share #12 Posted April 30, 2013 Thanks for all the feed back.... dino has been fine since I've had the trike. I am not necessarily "looking" to change; in fact, I have some concerns about slippage due to extra weight of trike kit and really just looking for feed back. Seems more folks are running synthetic and I am not sure if there is that much more benefit (vs. costs). Always looking to hear what is working for everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted April 30, 2013 Share #13 Posted April 30, 2013 Yes, you will have to eventually replace your clutch. I went with the PCW mod but I think the Barnett fix is better. I really don't think the oil is much of a factor as long as you don't use anything with friction modifiers. The real issue is the extra weight. When you replace the clutch install the Yamaha HD version which has more surface area... Back in the late 60's I spent some time in Edgemont PA while in the Army, and then in the early 70's was married to a girl from Newtown Square. Very familiar with West Chester... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted May 12, 2013 Share #14 Posted May 12, 2013 If I remember the only oil that Barnett recommends you do not use is Harley Davidson oil. I would also avoid Quaker state oil I have seen many engines gummed up by that stuff due to its high varnish content. As far as synthetic versus Dino oil, I cannot justify the extra cost. And as far as extended oil changes go I have run Dino oil in cars at three times the recommend oil change interval with no ill effects and still getting up to 300,00 miles out of my car engines (yeh I know I'm bad) but it does prove something. Oil does not really wear out it just gets dirty and looses its additives. A fact told to me many years ago by a guy that worked in shell research. He would change his oil filter every 10,000 miles and change oil every 30,000 miles. My reason for doing extended oil changes was simply pure forgetfulness changing oil whenever the thought occurred to me which usually amounted to about once a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted May 13, 2013 Share #15 Posted May 13, 2013 I remember working in a garage back in the late 70"s. Alot of manufactures recomended only changing the filter every other oil change. I think most oil changes were in the 3500 range back then. But it baffled me why change 4 qt of dirty oil out and leave a dirty quart in plus a filter that was dirty? Made no sense. We had a customer that came insiting the every other change deal. One day he came in wanted only the oil changed, I asked him so you shower with socks on too? After that I guess it made sense to him to just change it all out and get fresh. If anything changing the filter inbetween and adding a quart makes better sense. I have done that before if I had mostly highway miles and was short on cash. On this bike I started with Mobil 1 V-twin oil 20w50. But at $10 qt and only 4500 miles between changes (by the manual) I switched to the Rotella T6. Something like $21 gal vs $40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted May 15, 2013 Share #16 Posted May 15, 2013 Now that you mention it I remember those people from my gas station days as well I remember working in a garage back in the late 70"s. Alot of manufactures recomended only changing the filter every other oil change. I think most oil changes were in the 3500 range back then. But it baffled me why change 4 qt of dirty oil out and leave a dirty quart in plus a filter that was dirty? Made no sense. We had a customer that came insiting the every other change deal. One day he came in wanted only the oil changed, I asked him so you shower with socks on too? After that I guess it made sense to him to just change it all out and get fresh. If anything changing the filter inbetween and adding a quart makes better sense. I have done that before if I had mostly highway miles and was short on cash. On this bike I started with Mobil 1 V-twin oil 20w50. But at $10 qt and only 4500 miles between changes (by the manual) I switched to the Rotella T6. Something like $21 gal vs $40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now