Godlover Posted April 22, 2013 Share #1 Posted April 22, 2013 If you have been following my previous post, I bought a non running 96 tour classic and have been trouble shooting the problem. It is now obvious the engine is stuck as I pulled the starter today and it spins freely. I pulled plugs and have the cylinders soaking. This was a running bike a month ago. My questions is, if it frees up enough to ruins it worth the risk of doing it again. There is a ton of carbon buildup around the spark plug holes. I bought it right and have located an engine with 11,000 miles for $1075 shipped. Do I just move on or take the plunge and get the engine ordered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted April 22, 2013 Share #2 Posted April 22, 2013 I haven't been following your other thread. If you think it's seized why are you trying to use the starter? Pop the timing cover off and try to turn it with a wrench. That way you can go gently and backward too. Did you try to turn it with the plugs out? If it really ran a month ago but is seized now it's likely a major problem. If it had a cylinder hydro-locked with fuel you might have got the deal of the century. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbig1 Posted April 22, 2013 Share #3 Posted April 22, 2013 you can poor carbon cleaner and kerosine in plug holes and let it sit overnite should soften carbon put in gear and rockback and forth not hard. when it brakes loose you will have a mess. roll over with plugs out. then put plugs in and old smokey will start maybee did alot of cars this way must have idled alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade 2000 Posted April 23, 2013 Share #4 Posted April 23, 2013 Have you tried to manually turn the engine? Was it running fine then quit?? I originally bought my bike with a "seized motor" I figured it was something stupid but turned out the factory never torqued the connecting rods to the crankshaft. One completely came of and detonated the motor, and the other rod bolts you could spin off with your fingers. So I swapped the engine for an 07 with 1700 miles now going on 30,000 no problems. There was a sensor on mine that went into the center of the oil pan. It's kind of a fat cylinder and when I pulled that a bunch of metal fell out and that told me all I needed to know, maybe if it won't spin manually try pulling that sensor. If you are in this deep I hope you have a service manual you will need it. Good luck! If you need any advise my number is in my profile and I always have that phone on me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlover Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share #5 Posted April 23, 2013 If you followed previous posts I took plugs out and tried rocking it to turn engine over. The cover had stripped screw heads and try as I might my only option will probably be to drill them. I am soaking the cylinders now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade 2000 Posted April 23, 2013 Share #6 Posted April 23, 2013 If you followed previous posts I took plugs out and tried rocking it to turn engine over. The cover had stripped screw heads and try as I might my only option will probably be to drill them. I am soaking the cylinders now. You can also remove spark plugs and put the bike in gear and rock it forward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlover Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share #7 Posted April 23, 2013 Done it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RSTDdog Posted April 23, 2013 Share #8 Posted April 23, 2013 Have you drained the oil and looked for metal? Empty the oil filter in a separate container and do the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade 2000 Posted April 23, 2013 Share #9 Posted April 23, 2013 Done it Wow!! I'm suspecting something pretty serious I second draining oil and looking for metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade 2000 Posted April 23, 2013 Share #10 Posted April 23, 2013 This is what I ran into see how far the nut is away from the rod cap [ATTACH]75915[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade 2000 Posted April 23, 2013 Share #11 Posted April 23, 2013 This is the rod that got horseshoed when it let go [ATTACH]75916[/ATTACH] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted April 23, 2013 Share #12 Posted April 23, 2013 This is the rod that got horseshoed when it let go [ATTACH]75916[/ATTACH] Last picture makes block replacement a good option. Cylinder liner is broke, which gets expensive to fix & machine block. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlover Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share #13 Posted April 23, 2013 Last picture makes block replacement a good option. Cylinder liner is broke, which gets expensive to fix & machine block. Gary Wade's pictures are not my bike. I will try to get the engine freed up. My question is, "What is the likely hood of this engine doing the same thing later?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eusa1 Posted April 23, 2013 Share #14 Posted April 23, 2013 You get it free and moving and we will fix the carbon concern! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlover Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share #15 Posted April 23, 2013 You get it free and moving and we will fix the carbon concern! Cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlover Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share #16 Posted April 25, 2013 Got it freed up....it is catching a bit when right front piston is at top dead center so I will keep turning it over by hand hoping to get it completely freed up. Thanks to Mike for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlover Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share #17 Posted April 25, 2013 I have been turning my engine over with a socket and it free spins until the right front piston reaches top dead center. At that point I have to useable breaker bar to rotate 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch and then it spins freely. It seems the more I turn it over the easier it gets but I will be in the nursing home by the time it is totally free! I have the starter out so I haven't tried it with the starter. Anyone ever face this before or suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamer Posted April 25, 2013 Share #18 Posted April 25, 2013 If its hanging up when the right front piston is at tdc then you might have a broken valve spring and the piston is hitting a valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eusa1 Posted April 25, 2013 Share #19 Posted April 25, 2013 Time to borrow a bore scope and have peek:detective: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Godlover Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share #20 Posted April 26, 2013 Hooked up starter and it will turn it over. I will work on it tomorrow and see what happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wade 2000 Posted April 26, 2013 Share #21 Posted April 26, 2013 Glad your are making progress:thumbsup2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Owl Posted April 26, 2013 Share #22 Posted April 26, 2013 Sure sounds like a valve strike condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted April 26, 2013 Share #23 Posted April 26, 2013 Before you consider trying to start that engine I would try to determine what the cause of the sticking was. If it was a valve strike condition, you could in a split second go from needing a new spring to needing a new engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted April 26, 2013 Share #24 Posted April 26, 2013 Before you consider trying to start that engine I would try to determine what the cause of the sticking was. If it was a valve strike condition, you could in a split second go from needing a new spring to needing a new engine. :sign yeah that: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakester Posted April 26, 2013 Share #25 Posted April 26, 2013 I vote to remove the oil pan. Lay the bike over on its crash bars, lay on a quilt and remove the pan. This will give you access to the rods and crank, look for any markings on the counter balance of the crank shaft. This occurs when hydroshock occurs and the piston skirt contacts the counterbalance (bent rod). You can take a dremel and trim/notch the counter balance to provide clearance. Don't ask me how I know this. Good Luck Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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