craigatcsi Posted May 5, 2012 Share #1 Posted May 5, 2012 I ordered the Barnett Clutch Kit, plates & pressure plate, back in August of 2010. Because of health reasons, (more like apprehension/Lazyness), I didn't install it until this morning. I found a page on this site for clutch replacement and finally dug in. I got it all appart and saw something about noticing the marks on the clutch plates, which I saw on the originals but not on the Barnett. So, I figured that it doesn't matter & put it together anyway. But, before tightening it all down, I decided to cover it up and check for replacing with BARNETT Clutches. Boy am I glad I stopped!! I obviously have the wrong clutch package. So, come Monday, I will be on the phone ordering the correct clutch plate set. I will have to overnight it because we are heading to Ohio mid May. So, this clutch replacement is going to cost me MUCH more. I guess that is the price I pay for putting things off! Craigr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 5, 2012 Share #2 Posted May 5, 2012 Bike above is a 2007 RSV Craig, what CAD package do you work with ? I saw your occupation in your profile. Also, thread below helps people see what bike you have. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880 Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share #3 Posted May 5, 2012 We just installed AutoCad LT 2013. Prior to that we were at 2008. We only upgrade every 4 or 5 years. I take it that you use CAD? If so, which flavor? Craigr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M61A1MECH Posted May 5, 2012 Share #4 Posted May 5, 2012 We had Autocad for years where I work, but they switched to Solid Works, which I have not learned and they will not give me a license. They decided not to keep up the licenses for AutoCad, so I had to switch over to DraftSight, which is made by SolidWorks and works nearly identical to Autocad and it is FREE, anyone can down load it at work or at home. One bug that is common is the interface to the video card drivers is touchy, when I down loaded it to my lap top I could draw things but you could not see them. I had to go online and upgrade the driver for my video card, now it works just fine. Back to the clutch issue, I do not have a Barnett , but have read many times here and on other sites that they are sensitive to orientation, seems that just clocking it differently by one or two bolts fixes the issues that many have had with the clutch not disenaging when they pull the lever. Maybe that is the issue?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted May 5, 2012 Share #5 Posted May 5, 2012 whats the part number of what you ordered & have vs what you should have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWa Posted May 5, 2012 Share #6 Posted May 5, 2012 I just installed the Barnett clutch and the SR-2 conversion. The barnett did not have the notches in the clutch disks. Works fine. 306-90-20082 / 511-90-10002 Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 6, 2012 Share #7 Posted May 6, 2012 (edited) We just installed AutoCad LT 2013. Prior to that we were at 2008. We only upgrade every 4 or 5 years. I take it that you use CAD? If so, which flavor? Craigr At this point in time I use Solid Edge ST4, rather proficient with it as I have quite a few years experience with it. I have used Pro-Engineer, Catia, Solid Works, Microstation, Drafix, Anvil & and of course the ever popular AutoCad, which I less than fondly refer to as Etch-A-Sketch with colors & layers. I started using CAD professionally in 1983 designing railroad signal systems. WHere I am at now, I have got to spec out my last two PC systems. My CAD station at work is a Dell T7500 workstation with dual quad xeon processors, 24 gig ram and 2 gig quadro video, 30" main monitor & 23" secondary. 3D connexion spaceball, and a logitech G700 mouse. This one has two 1 terabyte drives in a raid setup When it arrived one of the IT guys was in awe of this sucker. Also have a T5500 dell on desk with a single hex core & 24 gig of ram I use primarily for a Computational Flow Dynamics simulations. Not as good a graphics card and a single 23" monitor. This one has three 1 terabyte drives in a raid setup. Both are 64bit windows 7. Gary Edited May 6, 2012 by dingy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted May 6, 2012 Share #8 Posted May 6, 2012 I started out with autocad 2 and still use a little Autocad in the latest flavors for legacy drawings. For 3D I also have used Mechanical desktop, Iron cad, CadKey, Solidworks, Inventor. They all have their good and bad points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share #9 Posted May 7, 2012 For you CAD guys, I HIGHLY recommend the online discussion board called 'The Swamp' it is located at www.theswamp.org' They are a great group of folks that are very similar to this board, in that they bend over backwards to help someone out that has questions. I am on that board a couple of times a day. As for the cluct # - I bought the SR2 Spring Conversion, #511-90-10002, and the Yam CF2000 Clutch Kit, #306-90-20082. These Cluctch discs don't have the notches and it didn't come with the wire. If I don't need the Notches, do I need the wire? craigr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share #10 Posted May 7, 2012 I just finished calling my local Barnett Supplier for to buy the correct clutch kits and he has the same numbers. As Mike mentioned above if the kit will work fine without the Notches, what about the wire? The instructions that I was reading said the break the wire, so I broke it. - This new kit has no wire! - Do I need it for the Barnett Clutch? craigr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeWa Posted May 7, 2012 Share #11 Posted May 7, 2012 It is not necessary to break the wire. The ends of the wire go through a small hole and are accessable with a needle nose pliers. Just squeez the ends and work the wire out of the hole. It can then be reused. After removing the wire pay attention to the order of removal of components. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share #12 Posted May 7, 2012 While at lunch, I spoke with Barnett and he confirmed that I do have the correct kits. But, I am still stuck because I broke that blasted wire!! He said that he has heard of someone running without it 'because it's such a pain to put on'. But he said he isn't sure whether it's okay without it or not. Do I HAVE to have it? - I have no clue how to get a new one! craigr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted May 7, 2012 Share #13 Posted May 7, 2012 No, you don't have to have the Wire mounted. Your Clutch will feel a bit rough on the Transition Point between no Bite and a slight bit of Bite, but that's all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share #14 Posted May 7, 2012 No, you don't have to have the Wire mounted. Your Clutch will feel a bit rough on the Transition Point between no Bite and a slight bit of Bite, but that's all. But, what do you mean by this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted May 7, 2012 Share #15 Posted May 7, 2012 If you let the Clutch Lever out slowly, there will be small Point where the Clutch slightly bites and the Lever could "vibrate" at said Point. Kind of as if a Clutch is picking. If you let the Lever go out beyond that Point, and that's question of under one Millimeter of Travel, the Clutch will start to engage. Sorry, can't describe it better than that. It's disturbing at first, but once your used to that, the Clutch is more defined than with the Wire in Place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted May 7, 2012 Share #16 Posted May 7, 2012 The wire holds the outer 1/2 friction plate in place. If you have a standard clutch plate setup, it would be best to have it in there. If, however, you upgraded the innermost 1/2 plate to a full plate, you won't need the wire. If you have done the upgrade to the full plate, you will find your friction range (from when you begin feeling friction to full engagement) at the clutch handle is smaller. It is more touchy. You get used to it, but it is different. I would send you my old wire, but I will be putting it back in next time I touch the clutch. I kind of like the extended friction range on the clutch handle. RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share #17 Posted May 7, 2012 Got it. - Thanks. At this point, (unless I change my mind), I THINK what I am going to do is go to the dealer tonight, ask if they can overnight the wire. If they can't, then I will prolly just go without it. craigr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share #18 Posted May 7, 2012 One last question... (I hope). In the old days when I used to work on vehicles, I used Silicon all my gaskets. - Is this still the stuff to use? craigr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted May 7, 2012 Share #19 Posted May 7, 2012 Put the Silicone on the Gasket towards the Casing Side. It will stick to the Cover, but saves the Gasket most of the Times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share #20 Posted May 7, 2012 Put the Silicone on the Gasket towards the Casing Side. It will stick to the Cover, but saves the Gasket most of the Times. Are you saying to put silicon on just one side of the gasket - the casing side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted May 7, 2012 Share #21 Posted May 7, 2012 Are you saying to put silicon on just one side of the gasket - the casing side? Yep! Then it stays on the cover when you remove the cover from the engine case. May not ruin the gasket, either when it comes off with the cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted May 7, 2012 Share #22 Posted May 7, 2012 Exactly, i opened the Clutch Cover on my '09 Vmax right after i got it and put Sealer on it. I had the the Cover off maybe 10 Times since, still using the very first Gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeperhawk Posted May 9, 2012 Share #23 Posted May 9, 2012 This thread shows how to install the Barnett clutch http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=491&highlight=barnett Also, pay attention to #7, or else the clutch will not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigatcsi Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share #24 Posted May 14, 2012 I finally buttoned the project up on Saturday morning. Though, I DID have to go buy another Torque Wrench!! Two of the ones I had were new from Harbor Frieight and wouldn't go low enough torque. And the OLD one that I had also wouldn't go low enough. So, it was off to Harbor Freight to buy a smaller one. - Wrong!! They didn't have a smaller one,, so I stopped at TWO Auto Parts stores and they didn't have the smaller ranges ones either! I finally gave up and went to Sears, who did have one. I drove around most of Saturday morning trying to find one! By the time I finally got everything done, I was so angry & frustrated, that I was shaking. So, I took the bike out for a very short ride just to make sure everything was fine. The wife and I spent yesterday afternoon riding around in Traffic to put the clutch thru it's paces and all is fine. I don't notice any difference other than it isn't slipping at all. I rolled on hard in every gear in town and on the highway and all is fine. One last note..... I remember many years ago that I actually used to ENJOY working on my bikes. - Not so much anymore. I'm must be getting older or ??? On my old bikes, I wasn't affraid to tear into ANYTHING!!! I learned to work on my bikes by just tearing into them, most of the time just to see how they worked! AND, I didn't have the money back them to waste on my 'screw ups'. Now, I have the money but not the patience. I started to take the Air Filters out to blow them out and couldn't figure out how to get them out, so I gave up for another day!! I would NEVER have done this when I was younger. I wouldv'e stayed with it unti I either figured it out or broke something. Any ways, thanks for the help with the Clutch and listening to my ranting. craigr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now