Marcarl Posted January 19, 2012 Share #1 Posted January 19, 2012 I've got this Farmsaw, built by Pioneer in Peterborough ONT, somewhere around the early 80's. I really don't need it, but I thought to clean it up, get it running and then sell. It's the orange one, not the yellow model. SO here's the issue. When I got it, it wouldn't turn over, but with a little persuasion that happened. It doesn't fire or even bark. It has spark and a new plug. The timing is right on. I cleaned the carb, and it gets fuel. Get about 60 lbs compression on 3rd pull, 25 on 1st pull. Decompression valve works. I tried to inject some ether,, I know, that's bad, but it won't bark on that either. I'm out of ideas, so now it's up to you guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted January 19, 2012 Share #2 Posted January 19, 2012 Probably needs a piston and rings. 60psi is kind of low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrenchrob Posted January 19, 2012 Share #3 Posted January 19, 2012 I second that. Low compression Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kregerdoodle Posted January 19, 2012 Share #4 Posted January 19, 2012 ok...so just what the H%$# is a FarmSaw ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted January 19, 2012 Share #5 Posted January 19, 2012 If it has a decompression valve, Isn't it supposed to have low compression while pulling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted January 19, 2012 Share #6 Posted January 19, 2012 ok...so just what the H%$# is a FarmSaw ??? Chainsaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroker ace Posted January 19, 2012 Share #7 Posted January 19, 2012 Is the decompression valve open or closed when doing the compression check. If it's closed and only getting the 25psi it won't run. If carb. is sealed good to the head it's probably the ring or rings ( possible one or two on the piston ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kregerdoodle Posted January 19, 2012 Share #8 Posted January 19, 2012 ah..hahaha Ok, Thanks, never heard the term before.. Chainsaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share #9 Posted January 19, 2012 Is the decompression valve open or closed when doing the compression check. If it's closed and only getting the 25psi it won't run. If carb. is sealed good to the head it's probably the ring or rings ( possible one or two on the piston ). Normally it opens as you pull the cord, other wise it's bound to kick pretty hard. So I pulled 3 times to get 60 lbs, which I figure with the valve open is not so bad,,, but then, I'm not familiar with this saw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrenchrob Posted January 19, 2012 Share #10 Posted January 19, 2012 Is the decompression valve closing when as the crank is rotating after the initial pull of cord? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share #11 Posted January 19, 2012 Is the decompression valve closing when as the crank is rotating after the initial pull of cord? Pretty hard to tell,, was on my mind as well, but then when I take the starter cover off it is closed. Ive checked it for seating and chips, and it looks real good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share #12 Posted January 19, 2012 Just decommissioned the decompression valve, so now I get 80 lbs on the 3rd pull, but only 30lbs on the 1st pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted January 19, 2012 Share #13 Posted January 19, 2012 80psi is about the minimum a gas engine will fire at. Pull the plug and squirt some oil in in the cylinder and take another reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted January 19, 2012 Share #14 Posted January 19, 2012 Just saying..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted January 19, 2012 Share #15 Posted January 19, 2012 Is it a 1st Gen Farmsaw or a 2nd Gen Farmsaw ..? 2nd Gens usually have low testosterone ...or is that compression...I forget..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam Posted January 19, 2012 Share #16 Posted January 19, 2012 Try a little D 40 in the plug hole, and see what happens. It may be also that the carb diaphrams are all dried out, I have a saw right now that needs a carb kit. Or even a poor fuel line. 80 is a bit low for compression also but you should get some fire out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cowboy Posted January 19, 2012 Share #17 Posted January 19, 2012 1. Is fuel getting to the spark plug? Plug should get wet if you are not firing. 2. Timing is key to make sure that at top dead center the flywheel is on the coil. Take the flywheel off and make sure that the keyway is not sheared. 3. Take the exhaust off and make sure it is not stopped up with carbon build up. Clogged exhaust will cause problems. 4. With the exhaust off you should be able to see if you are getting fuel! 5. Make sure not to put any kind of compressed air on the carb. the internal parts that cannot be replaced will be ruined. In this case you will need a new carb. Just soak the carb in carb cleaner or just a bowl of gas. Tooth brush on all parts and make sure to take all neddles out and soak. 6. If you do not get a burp with ether then I have to think that it is timing! 7. Last resort pull the top end off and check the piston rings. Usally can do this without any special tools just patience and maybe four hands to get set back in place. Be sure the piston rings are staggered most pistons have a notch for each ring that offsets each ring. Best of luck! Let us know how it comes out. Brian Shoemaker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chabicheka Posted January 19, 2012 Share #18 Posted January 19, 2012 I know just the people that can solve your problem... call 1 800 I GOT JUNK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dug050 Posted January 19, 2012 Share #19 Posted January 19, 2012 Try removing the sparkplug and pull the saw over slowly, does it feel smooth or catchy? If the saw was run with no oil in the gas you often get a transfer of aluminum off the piston onto the cylinder walls and the rings will not seal the cylinder. You stated that the saw was seized when you got it so this may be why. If the piston seems to travel smoothly then as Brian stated the fuel may be getting to the carb but not into the combustion chamber. Try putting about a spoonful of gas directly into the sparkplug hole and replacing the plug. Pull the saw over several times and see if it fires, may even run for a few seconds. If it fires this way then the problem is fuel not getting to the sparkplug, this could be rotted fuel line, bad carb diaphram, stuck fuel inlet needle, poorly seating reed valves, leaking crankshaft seals or damaged rings. If it doesn't fire when you put fuel directly into the cylinder it is usually an igniton problem. You said it has spark so again as Brian stated it could be a timing issue .The only thing controlling timing is the position of the flywheel on the crankshaft which is set by the keyway. I haven't seen any keyways sheared on a chainsaw, usually happens on lawnmowers when the blade hits something solid and stops immediately but the momentum of flywheel keeps it moving and it shears the key. I'm not saying it couldn't happen, just never seen one. As a last resort you will have to look at the piston, rings and cylinder bore for internal damage. Unfortuneatly a chainsaw doesn't have a cylinder head so it requires a complete teardown to do this. If there is damage to these parts I have usually found that unless you like tinkering and can find good used parts, the costs to repair an old saw like this are too high to make it worth while. Good luck Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share #20 Posted January 20, 2012 Thanks Guys,,, I thought it to be junk,,,, after all this,,,, it is junk,,,,, well maybe kijiji,,,, some people think these saws are the greatest things made since the Venture, and I would not be want to be held responsible for throwing out somebody else's treasure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chabicheka Posted January 20, 2012 Share #21 Posted January 20, 2012 Hey Carl....here's an interesting site which you might find useful. http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/47308.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradT Posted January 20, 2012 Share #22 Posted January 20, 2012 , somewhere around the early 80's. Is it a 1st Gen Farmsaw or a 2nd Gen Farmsaw ..? Must be a 1 st gen It is from the 80's and needs work. Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share #23 Posted January 20, 2012 Hey Carl....here's an interesting site which you might find useful. http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/47308.htm Been there, done that, but thanks anyways. Must be a 1 st gen It is from the 80's and needs work. Brad So seeing as you are from before the 80's are you beyond repair ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bull463 Posted January 20, 2012 Share #24 Posted January 20, 2012 Carl before you get rid of it pull the muffer off check the screen and make sure there are no mud bees in the muffler. When I was a small eng teck I dont know how many saws I worked on that just had a plugged muffler. 2 strokers dont go bad that often if they have the right gas oil mix and have not been kept in a swamp. It is normally somthing simple . I also have seen alot of flywheels brake the keyway just a bit timing is everything with 2 strokes. Bull463 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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