chocking Posted April 30, 2011 Share #1 Posted April 30, 2011 ughhhh..I hate brakes. I rebuilt my calipers on my 84 and have been bleeding or attempting to bleed the brakes.. the front right is fine, but I simply cannot get the air out of the left front/ rear...no matter how much i bleed with a vac, i still get a steady stream of bubbles....much more than normal.. I have to be getting air in the system somewhere, but can't find where...checked banjo bolts and bleeders....calipers are working.....rear seems to have less air than the front left... any idea where i might have a leak.. i never messed with the junction near the steering neck. darn.. this is beyond frustrating.. I've been battling this for days... clay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted April 30, 2011 Share #2 Posted April 30, 2011 OK use a vacuum pump and first bleed the rear caliper, then bleed to the junction near the neck then the front caliper then return to the neck one more time then to the anti dive, you should be good to go. That junction on the neck is a high point for the entire system and air just loves to accumulate there!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocking Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted April 30, 2011 i think i'm getting way too much air.. it really is a pretty steady stream of good sized air bubbles.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted April 30, 2011 Share #4 Posted April 30, 2011 (edited) Chocking When I use my Mity Vac to bleed the brakes, I often experience the solid stream of bubbles you experience. I found that these bubbles were not a result of air within the system, but air leaking around the clear hose where it slips over the bleeder. Sometimes, too, if you unscrew the bleeder too far, outside air, as opposed to air from within, is sucked by the bleeder threads. Try applying a bit of heavy grease to the bleeder valve before slipping the hose on to it. Also make sure the hose fits tightly on to the bleeder valve. This leaking air will also break the vacuum formed by the Mity Vac and result in very little actual bleeding of the air in the system. You should probably see old dark fluid coming out as you make an effective bleed. If not, there is probably no actual bleeding going on. Edited April 30, 2011 by Prairiehammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted April 30, 2011 Share #5 Posted April 30, 2011 Check all your banjo bolts and make sure you have good crush washers and they are tight. Then install speed-bleeders. Once you get them installed there's no need to do the 'pump up-crack open-pump up' dance, just pump..pump..pump.... Should get all the air out of the line in 5 minutes total, and it's a one man job. When the air is out, then close the bleeder valve and pump up the line presure. Once the left front is bled do the same thing to the rear. Don't forget to keep the reserve level up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozlander Posted May 1, 2011 Share #6 Posted May 1, 2011 "Don't forget to keep the reserve level up... " X2 Very important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGazer Posted May 3, 2011 Share #7 Posted May 3, 2011 i think i'm getting way too much air.. it really is a pretty steady stream of good sized air bubbles.. I've had this problem show up on several different brake systems using a MityVac. The problem is air is entering the system via the bleeder screw threads. FWIW and IMHO, using a MityVac to bleed brakes is a waste of time. The ideal solution is to use a pressure bleeder and Speed Bleeders. This made bleeding/flushing my Porsche 944 and 951 brakes a snap. The point here is you want to FORCE fluid through the system so it carries air bubbles out through the bleed screw. With that being said, simply replacing the stock bleed screws with Speed Bleeders will make brake bleeding much easier. http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle%20Sizes.htm#Yamaha Y'All ride Safe.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg_in_london Posted May 3, 2011 Share #8 Posted May 3, 2011 In the UK, for a 'speed bleeder' we have a short length of tube with a valve. There are pressurised systems available, but they seem very expensive for what they are - and the idea of having a spare reservoir cap for each to add a valve to seems unrealistic. I've found getting a large syringe can be a useful aid - either to push fluid back up from the brake end, or to act as a reservoir for the expelled fluid. It works particularly well then fluid has been drained out of the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted May 3, 2011 Share #9 Posted May 3, 2011 Yah!! I can see taking a spare resovoir cover and drilling and installing a hydraulic line and attaching it to a resovoir and air pressure forcing fluid into the brake system to pressure bleed the system too!! Speed bleeders are available and run about $20 for a set of 3 from various sources such as Ebay, some Auto parts stores, and Buckeye performance. They do work very nice but do not solve the problem of air being trapped in the line at the high point of the line comong from the rear to the front. That's why they put that bleeder there!!! Pressure bleeding will remove that problem but I'm not sure how well it would work on the proportioning valve. It SHOULD open it like normal but you never know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted May 3, 2011 Share #10 Posted May 3, 2011 Yah!! I can see taking a spare resovoir cover and drilling and installing a hydraulic line and attaching it to a resovoir and air pressure forcing fluid into the brake system to pressure bleed the system too!! Speed bleeders are available and run about $20 for a set of 3 from various sources such as Ebay, some Auto parts stores, and Buckeye performance. They do work very nice but do not solve the problem of air being trapped in the line at the high point of the line comong from the rear to the front. That's why they put that bleeder there!!! Pressure bleeding will remove that problem but I'm not sure how well it would work on the proportioning valve. It SHOULD open it like normal but you never know... Actually the speed bleeders will solve the trapped air problem Bob. With the Speed's you can pump fluid through the line faster than the air bubble will rise. And... they are available directly from Speed Bleeder, and I've found they are cheaper going direct. Nice folks to deal with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted May 3, 2011 Share #11 Posted May 3, 2011 Actually the speed bleeders will solve the trapped air problem Bob. With the Speed's you can pump fluid through the line faster than the air bubble will rise. And... they are available directly from Speed Bleeder, and I've found they are cheaper going direct. Nice folks to deal with. OK there you have it!!! I use a vacuum pump myself but also have speed bleeders, and I bled from the bleeder near the steerring head as well and have very good brakes!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted May 3, 2011 Share #12 Posted May 3, 2011 The point here is you want to FORCE fluid through the system so it carries air bubbles out through the bleed screw. Thats exactly what I would mention also. Matter of fact you could go to tractor supply and get a syringe for giving horses shots and hook a clear hose on it and attach it to the stock bleeder. Fill it with brake fluid and shove it through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocking Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share #13 Posted May 4, 2011 I may have to get some speed bleeders at some time soon, but for now I think I have addressed the air issue...I was after taking the right side black plastic cover and class controller out, quite easily get to the connection and rather easily looseN it. got a good amount of air out and intergrated brakes are about 90 %... I think letting it set a day may bring more to the neck... I also did find as Old Glazer stated... air getting in thru the bleeder threads....simply used the old school method of a half filled clear bottle with fluid and followed the sequence and the process seemed to work... although at the price, speed bleeders seem to be the ticket for all the hassle I went thru...The vaccum seemed to work well on the front, but not really necessary... Lots of great advice as always from great folks. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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