I think I miss the YICS

[GigaWhiskey]

Let's see, I replaced the carb boots and o-rings, plugged the holes for the YICS, cleaned the K&N twice and oiled (one swipe accross with the spray), pulled the diaphrams (they still look new), soaked all the holes and blew them out, and synced the carbs (not that far off) and it runs like poo. Have not driven it yet, don't trust it.

 

It was much smoother with the YICS on unless I goofed somewhere. It even kind of backfires up into the airbox. Blip the throttle and it is somewhat slow to come to idle. Hard to keep it at 1k rpm.

 

When I added the plugs and the think for #2, after the sync, I noticed the idle jump up a few hundred rpm. Turned the idle screw back down but hard to keep it at 1k rpm.

 

Thinking about emptying the tank (whats left) and putting new.

 

This and the gauges today is making me lose that lovin' feeling.

[MiCarl]

It even kind of backfires up into the airbox. Blip the throttle and it is somewhat slow to come to idle. Hard to keep it at 1k rpm.

 

 

Symptoms of lean condition. The hanging idle screams air leak.

[Marcarl]

Check those carb boots to make sure they are seated all the way around, and did you make sure the little O-rings were in place when you did the diaphrams?, and how did you plug the wholes for the YICS.

[Venturous Randy]

I am pretty comfortable in saying "It is not the YICS". Due to a problem I had with a hose connection on my YICS, I removed all of it a couple of years ago and my bike runs great. I actually could not tell any performance difference, and the only difference on the Jason mod was that the idle was a bit more lumpy.

I suspect you may still have a vacuum leak somewhere with what you are describing. I also want to say that when you put plug caps on the YICS ports, they need to be good, heavy caps as they will leak otherwise or not last long. I also suggest that you keep a couple of caps in your tool bag, as a backfire can blow one off. Spray some starter fluid around that area while it is idleing and see if anything changes.

Another thing I keep telling people is to check the condition af your spark plug caps. I spent several hours trying to fix a miss on a friends 87 and finally narrowed it down to a corroded resistor in a spark plug cap. Also, if you have been running very much Sea Foam thru the carbs, you may need more spark plugs.

Another good thing that came out of my carb upgrades of new diaphrahms and the needle depth reset is if I am loafing around two up and not running 75 down the interstate, I can just about average 47mpg. Not too long ago, I was tickled with 40mpg.

RandyA

[GigaWhiskey]

I will reply back to y'all later today.

[GigaWhiskey]

Symptoms of lean condition. The hanging idle screams air leak.

 

I was trying to be right on with everything. I will spray to see what I come up with.

 

Check those carb boots to make sure they are seated all the way around, and did you make sure the little O-rings were in place when you did the diaphrams?, and how did you plug the wholes for the YICS.

 

New Boots and o-rings (siliconed), there were up in their slots good. Yes, the little o-rings are there, I made sure of it. Plug the holes with caps from NAPA and the cylinders using the same clamps. They seems to be good and tight.

 

 

I am pretty comfortable in saying "It is not the YICS". Due to a problem I had with a hose connection on my YICS, I removed all of it a couple of years ago and my bike runs great. I actually could not tell any performance difference, and the only difference on the Jason mod was that the idle was a bit more lumpy.

I suspect you may still have a vacuum leak somewhere with what you are describing. I also want to say that when you put plug caps on the YICS ports, they need to be good, heavy caps as they will leak otherwise or not last long. I also suggest that you keep a couple of caps in your tool bag, as a backfire can blow one off. Spray some starter fluid around that area while it is idleing and see if anything changes.

Another thing I keep telling people is to check the condition af your spark plug caps. I spent several hours trying to fix a miss on a friends 87 and finally narrowed it down to a corroded resistor in a spark plug cap. Also, if you have been running very much Sea Foam thru the carbs, you may need more spark plugs.

Another good thing that came out of my carb upgrades of new diaphrahms and the needle depth reset is if I am loafing around two up and not running 75 down the interstate, I can just about average 47mpg. Not too long ago, I was tickled with 40mpg.

RandyA

 

I know how much of a believer you are with regards to the lack of YICS, lol. I have read many of your posts about them.

 

This thing is a lot rougher at iidle than it used to be.

 

No jason mod done.

 

I picked up the caps at NAPA. I do not know if they had any more. Just what the guy behind the counter pointed me to.

 

I have Friday off so I can dig around it.

 

Caps, wires and plugs are only a couple years old at most and only a couple thousand miles on them. The bike is garage kept. Yes, I maintain this bike far more than I ride it. So sad!

 

I run Shell Super and have not use SeaFoam much. Haven't had the chance to, lol.

 

Diaphragms are only a couple years old at most. They are Yammies and they looked good, no pinholes or wear leading to that yet. I think they stayed seated but yanno it can happen.

 

I have been atr about 42mpg and am tickled with that.

 

 

******************************************************************************************************************

 

I turned the idle screws out 1 1/4 turns. I hope that is right. Curious to know if they should be turned out a bit more due to the YICS not there to do the job it was designed to do.

 

I hope I have not over oiled the air filter, I am thinking I did not.

 

I hope I do not have TCI issues due to the gauges not rising. I do have the tach though, it does work. How accurate, I can't say but it feels right.

 

Would it be normal for the idle to increase after the hose on #2 is put back on?

 

Also, I noticed that if I cup my hand a bit over the vent in the top of the airbox that it will increase in RPM. Is that normal.

 

Thanks, for y'alls input! I wish y'all lived just down the street.

 

Rick

[Monty]

Like they said...check for air leaks. Get a spray bottle, and fill it with soapy water...then, while it is idling high, spray around all of your connections, and listen for a change.

[MiCarl]

 

I turned the idle screws out 1 1/4 turns. I hope that is right. Curious to know if they should be turned out a bit more due to the YICS not there to do the job it was designed to do.

 

That seems too little. 3 is probably closer.

 

I hope I have not over oiled the air filter, I am thinking I did not.

You didn't. Too much oil makes the mixture rich, you are lean. (See below)

 

I hope I do not have TCI issues due to the gauges not rising. I do have the tach though, it does work. How accurate, I can't say but it feels right.

What gauges?

 

Would it be normal for the idle to increase after the hose on #2 is put back on?

Yes. It won't run right with open vacuum ports. Open vacuum ports let in extra air making it lean and causing the idle to hang.

 

Also, I noticed that if I cup my hand a bit over the vent in the top of the airbox that it will increase in RPM. Is that normal.

No. Covering the intake makes the mixture richer. Since covering it improves running you are too lean with it open.

[GigaWhiskey]

I had another thread going about my temp and volt gauges deciding not to work.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46937

 

When I was referring to the difference of RPM, i was meaning when the hoses were connected during the sync and then afterward when it was running with the hose on #2.

 

I will get to all this on Friday since I got lucky to get a day off. Checking for vacuum leaks and adjustments and stuff.

 

Thanks for the replies!

[bkuhr]

not sure about yours, but my '83 vac hose goes onto port on carb, not on sync port on boot. this my be our vac problem-open port on carb, and timing on wrong port on boot.

[GigaWhiskey]

I think, do not quote me, the 83 is plugged in a different place than later models.

[GigaWhiskey]

not sure about yours, but my '83 vac hose goes onto port on carb, not on sync port on boot. this my be our vac problem-open port on carb, and timing on wrong port on boot.

 

I think, do not quote me, the 83 is plugged in a different place than later models.

 

 

There are pictures of the 83 in this post.

 

http://venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=448794&postcount=6

[GigaWhiskey]

Hey Y'all been messin' around a bit with a little progress. Found a top boot had slid up a bit causing a vacuum leak. Fixed that and ran better. Turned the pilot screws out to 2 1\2 from 1 1\2 turns (actually got the 1 1/2 from a post), made a difference.

 

It is smoother and idles better but not quite there.

 

So, I kept spaying and noticed that it is also leaking where the upper boots meet the airbox. They spin in the box fairly easy and I can move them from side to side. When I move them from side to side they sound juicy.

 

So, should these spin easy and move side to side like they do? Should I clean, dry and seal them as well? Or am I due for new ones (if they are still purchasable?

 

I searched for this and found nothing.

[GigaWhiskey]

Sealed them with silicone. Will let them dry.

[GeorgeS]

Check the hose running up to the " Pressure Sensor "

Pull the Electric plug off that sensor, check for Moisture inside the Rubber boot over the electrical plug there.

 

Also, check your Run Stop, Switch, for High Resistance.

 

Pull the plugs, looking at them might show which cylinder is the culprit.

 

Did you do the Exhaust pipe, heat check ?

 

Also, you might consider Moisture Inside of the TCI Unit. effecting one cylinder fireing.

 

[GigaWhiskey]

Check the hose running up to the " Pressure Sensor "

Pull the Electric plug off that sensor, check for Moisture inside the Rubber boot over the electrical plug there.

 

The hose looked good but did not test it. What is a reasonable amount of time to discount moisture being there? Reason I ask is that the last time it got some rain was about a year ago. I do not spray the bike down with water either. Just curious.

 

Also, check your Run Stop, Switch, for High Resistance.

 

I will search this to see how it is done.

 

Pull the plugs, looking at them might show which cylinder is the culprit.

 

I had this on my mind to check them. Been reading a lot of threads lately. I think I even have a new set of plugs somewhere, even though the current ones do not have many miles or time on them.

 

Did you do the   Exhaust pipe,  heat  check ? 

 

Nope. Really do not want to touch them, lol. I have considered picking up one of those tools that read the temps from HF.

 

Also, you might consider Moisture Inside of the TCI Unit. effecting one cylinder fireing.

 

Just thinking TCI makes me want to cringe. Read too much on those issues lately. Also, what would be a reasonable amount of time to discount moisture?

 

**********************

 

Is there a leak test I can do on the boost sensor? Is there an amount of vacuum I should pull on it for about 30 minutes?

 

I want to see what results I get out of the sealing of the upper tubes. If good to a point, I would like to put some miles on her with a full tank and some seafoam to see if this would help as well. I hope it stops raining so I can do this. She is too clean to get her dirtied up so soon after, lol.

 

Thanks for your input!

[GigaWhiskey]

Check the plugs, 3 looked a little sooty one looked a little cleaner. Cleaned and gapped - one was off slightly. Saw spark that looked to be right on each of them. Cleaned the two TCI connections. All seemed to make a small bit of difference.

 

I was noticing a slight putter in the intake and some out of the exhaust.

 

Since it was not close enough for my liking, i backed off the three sync screws and the idle screw. Now she idles at about 3k and I have to force it back with the throttle. Top and bottom cable connections are loose and both connections at the carbs, the cable are loose.

 

I am not thinking it is an air leak somewhere.

 

What now?

[zlMark]

Spray some starter fluid around that area while it is idleing and see if anything changes

Have fire extingusher handy!

 

Soapy water is your best bet

[mrich12000]

Have fire extingusher handy!

 

Soapy water is your best bet

 

We used to detect vacuum leaks with a propane soldering tank .

[friesman]

Mine was doing that fast idle thing when I got some schmuck that I thought was a good mechanic to do some work on Brownie. When he was done my scoot idled normally when first started but as it warmed up it got faster and faster until it got stuck on 3k rpm.

Rocket had a look at it when he rebuilt the transmission and its been fine ever since, so Maybe i can put a bug in his ear to see if i can get him to come up with some ideas for you.

 

Good luck

Brian

[GigaWhiskey]

I got the 3k thing figured out. i had a suggestion to back everything off. I did that and the manifold had enough vacuum to light up the boost sensor. I noticed that it dropped when I pulled the hose to the boost sensor. I got close enough with the sync screws, looking through the top and pulling on the top cable, to get the butterflies closing about the same. This stopped it. Still got that sputtering through the carbs and exhaust. Still need to figure that out. It is not bad, they are just small. I sealed everything up tight amongst some other things.