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I had my bf pose this question a while back..but there were some communication issues. I have a 2006 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe. Will run just fine for a period of time..then drop and cylinder and die. When it does this, it will not start for another hr or so. I know it does not have a vaccum issue in the tank. My bf also pulled the carbs and cleaned them. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? Another mechanic said that is could be the ICU (or equivalent)? However this is a $300 part, and I don't have alot of spare cash to just blow. My mother has a ident bike to mine. So could experiment with swapping parts to see what's wrong. Just looking for some guidence. Thanks for any help.

 

Flash18, Wichita KS

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Rachael next time it happens see if its has spark at the plugs some of the Ventures are having problems with the #4 coil going bad.I have never heard of a TCI going bad on your bike not saying thats not it but you never know.I would eliminate the simple things first.I have seen one not want to start due to a bad kill switch

 

I dont think that the carbs are the issue I would suspect a coil or relay to be the culprit dont forget the simple things like the kickstand switch as well

 

 

Let us know what you find

You can call me if you need to my number is 9196735095 between 9 am and 9pm est

 

 

 

Jeff

Edited by muffinman
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I would check the coil it could have a hot spot that is causing the issue. Once the coil heats up to a point it causes an internal brake or short to happen resulting in the cylinder dropping.

 

With the ECU you can get one off EBay fairly cheep but when you get it plug it in test it out and make it does work. I carry a spare one on my bike all the time along with a spare voltage regulator.

 

I usually use these guys now this part is for a Venture but as you can see the price is right...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Venture-Royal-Star-XVZ1300-1300-CONTROL-UNIT-/370373601372?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item563bfca85c

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Thanks for the help..I have checked the spark..and yes during the occurances it does have spark at the plugs. It starts just fine, just at random points in a trip is dies. Once it made it 3 blocks..and one of the times it made it 100 miles. The fuel pump has also been tested. However on my bf's gw he found out that the fuel pump was randomly failing due to battery issues. His bike was having a similiar problem, and replacing the battery fixed it. A battery however is also $100. Will try to knock out some of the cheaper/more simple fixes. Thanks again.

 

Flash, Wichita KS

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Fist off, dropping a cylinder on these bikes is barely noticeable. They run quite well on 3 cylinders.

When it does quit running, how does it die? Does it run rough and sputter out or does it just suddenly turn off?

A sudden shut down I would lean toward an electrical issue and sputtering out I would lean toward a fuel delivery issue.

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To me, it sounds like the fuel pump failing. Next time the bike stalls, take the cover off and feel the pump. If it is hot, or even warm, it has failed and will start working again when it has cooled off. There are other fuel pumps that will work that are much cheaper than the Yamaha pump.

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it sputters out..I can feel the bike get weaker, I don't think it's an electrical issue. I think it's either the fuel pump or battery..will be testing those as soon as possible. I've heard several different possibilities, however the darn thing doesn't die down when someone is trying to figure out what's wrong :bang head:, so non of them have seen it happen.

 

Flash, Wichita KS

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You said you have another bike handy to swap parts with, then Why not swap fuel pumps? Its very easy to get to, and takes about ten mins. To change.

The pumps on any 99 to 2013 venture and 05 to 09 tour deluxe are all the very same.

 

Sounds like a pump to me.

Your welcome to call or text me, number is in my profile

Mike

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Intermittent failures are hard to find. It sounds electrical to me. When electrical contacts (any contact, switch, wire, plug, motor) gets hot it expands which can cause a gap in the electrical contact and fail. When it cools it contracts making contact again. I would check all wires, plugs that have to do with the ignition to be sure they are clean and tight.

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10-4 on the fuel filter. A couple of bucks to rule it out and chances are it could use one anyways. I was out maessing around one time years ago, still had mechanical fuel pumps. Dang truck quit, was fuel pump. We rigged up a line to the fule tank to presurize it and blew in tank to force fuel to carb. Once it was rolling down the road we just pointed the end into the wind. Self presurized.

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Thanks everyone for your help, will toy around with it abit today. Have to wait till next paycheck for any purchases. Think I will swap the battery and regulator. Alot of people I know were having the same issues, my mom's turned out to be the stator, my bf's the battery, and a friend of mine was the fuel filter. Already replaced my fuel filter, and I thought it had fixed it, however as already posted, intermittent problems are difficult to diagnos and correct. Yesterday was 60 degrees here and I was itching to ride, however I can not afford for it to die down on my way to work. I'm not against riding in the cold, however would like to have it fixed when nicer weather comes around.

 

Flash, Wichita KS

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Sounds like the fuel pump to me.:backinmyday: The fuel pump on these things can become intermittent. My bike experienced similar symptoms a couple of years ago. Fortunately for me the pump finally failed to run at start and the problem became crystal clear.

 

You can replace the stock pump with a Mr Gasket pump for about $40. Yamaha wants considerably more for their's.:mo money: A number of folks here have used the Mr Gasket pump. A search should find some photos and instructions on the swap. :080402gudl_prv:

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Several have posted on gravity feed on the RSTD/RSV.

If you know how to do it, have a few tools, maybe a flashlight, you stand a very good chance of getting running again in less than 1/2 hour. And if you have done it, maybe 15 minutes.

 

Below is a copy/paste of mine from 2009:

 

Like Jim said, Gravity Feed. I found my 2009 post about it(below). I ran for a week, almost 1000 miles until the dealer could get one in.

 

 

Mine went at about 50k. If you get stuck, like Wizard said, you can re-route the fuel line to the carbs. in 15 minutes. Remove the seat, remove the rear tank bolt, lift the rear of the tank for access to the carb port. Pull the line off the top of the filter and re-route it to the carbs. (obviously you have to pull the line that came from the bottom of the pump to the carb.)

Make sure you have a good needle nose pliers for the clamps. Oh, and a flashlight incase it happens at night. You should also open the left side cover and disconnect the electrical connection to the pump so it won't try to poop out any remaining gas.

 

If you think you may do this for a while, buy a small cheap inline filter and a couple of inches of gas line and put it inline close to the fuel cutoff valve.

You are good for lot's of miles this way. Might have issues if you let the tank get too low.

Ah, and don't smoke while you are doing this!

Also, a mechanic since pointed out I could also just have a connector that could connect the tank line to the carb line, bypassing the fuel filter. (But you would want to disable the pump at the side cover, by pulling the electrical connection so it won't poop out what gas it has.)

 

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Hopefully my last questions for a little while. I've found 2 Mr. Gasket pumps with different psi ratings. What psi is best for the Royal Star? Also, would I need to install an inline fuel pressure regulator? Again, thanks for all the help. You guys are awesome!

 

Flash, Wichita KS

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Guest tx2sturgis

3-5 PSI range on the pump.

 

But I need to ask you a few questions.

 

When the bike dies, can you describe what it does, exactly? And more important, can you describe what happens when it finally starts again?

 

When it quits, does it kindve sputter, and buck, and finally just stall? Or does it quit all at once as if it was switched off?

 

When it finally restarts, are there any clicking noises that persist for several seconds? If it doesnt start, does the starter work normally? Or does it turn slowly, or not at all? Is the ignition switch getting kind've hard to turn, or feel like its dragging?

 

Are there any unusual noises from the bike? Clicking noises especially? How about just before it finally restarts? Watch the warning lights on the dash...do they dim during those clicks? Do they dim out more than normal when hitting the starter button? Does the starter seem to have trouble cranking the bike? Does the key in the ignition seem to be hot? How do the clutch interlock and kickstand interlock seem to be working...normally? Or have you noticed any changes?

 

All these things are hints to a good mechanic, so try to be very aware of ANY symptoms....it will help the guys figure this out. Very sharp cookies we have here, but we may need more info.

 

:happy34:

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It stutters out, as I've said, it gradually drops cylinders and just dies. It tries to crank, which leads me to believe it's not the battery. There is no clicking noises, or anything that leads me to believe it something wrong with the kill switch/ kickstand/ ignition switch. It sits for 30mins to an hr, and starts up just fine. Runs handy dandy until the same thing happens. Never know when it'll happen, but I can feel the bike get weaker and weaker right before it dies.

 

Flash, wichita KS

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Guest tx2sturgis

Ok, that does sound like a fuel issue.

 

Fuel pump probably, or possibly a fuel vacuum situation in the tank. Next time it stalls, put the bike in neutral, open the fuel cap and then replace it. Turn the key on, (dont push the starter button yet) listen for clicking from the fuel pump. If no clicking, then the pump may have quit. With the key in the ON position, remove the left side cover, and tap gently on the fuel pump with something like a wrench or the handle of a screwdriver. If it immediatley starts clicking, you have found the problem.

 

Once it clicks several times, the bike should start within a few seconds of pushing the starter button.

 

If you get the chance, buy a can of Seafoam or a small bottle of StarTron fuel treatment and dose the full fuel tank with a 1/4 of the contents. This helps clean out the crap accumulating in the seals and gaskets in the fuel system. It helped my fuel pump as well as cleans out the grunge in the carbs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by tx2sturgis
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The vaccum is another option I had considered. I have removed the fuel cap before. No whistle, and no change in starting. First time it happened, I stopped trying to start it because I thought I had flooded it.

 

Flash, Wichita KS

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