Stuck Bolt and out of ideas...

So I got my new fuel sending unit and went to install it and found that when I was trying to take my tank off, like I have done many times already, a head of one of the hex head bolt/screw that goes in the front of the tank has been rounded out. I don't know how it happend, when I put it back together last time I didn't notice any slop or anything but when I went to loosen it up, I just spun round and round.

I have tried:

1) vice grips and pliers - nothing will grab onto that round head.

2) Easy-out/screw extractors (a few different types including the kind you drill into the screw and then back out and the kind that is supposed to grab onto the head and back it out) none worked - the head of the screw just didn't grab like it should.

3) take grinder and cut slots into the head suitable for a flat head screwdriver - did not work; as I try to use the screw driver to back the bolt out it just breaks the head up even more.

I had thought about cutting the head of the bolt off completely and then try to maneuver the tank support out and over it (then I could get the bolt out because I would be able to grip it), but I don't think there is enough play in the tank to do that (as it would have to go ~1 inch to one side and it is just too tight of a fit).

I am just plumb out of ideas - any thoughts would be appreciated.

Cut a slot and use an impact driver and a 1lb. hammer. good luck.

'bout the only solution that i can think of , that you haven't tried, would be to weld a 1/4 inch bolt into/onto the existing bolt . then you might be able to get a socket on it that way.

it may be that others here have an easier solution.

good luck.

just jt

Can you get to the edge of it with a chisel? If so, you might be able to break it loose with a hammer and chisel.

Have you tried these? They have a spiral gripping socket that worked wonders for me...

http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/9990000031818111?hei=600&wid=600&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952160000P?keyword=bolt+head

Thanks for the suggestions!

Cut a slot and use an impact driver and a 1lb. hammer. good luck.

The head of the screw doesn't seem to be strong enough for this...

'bout the only solution that i can think of , that you haven't tried, would be to weld a 1/4 inch bolt into/onto the existing bolt . then you might be able to get a socket on it that way.

it may be that others here have an easier solution.

good luck.

just jt

This is a great idea; although I don't have access to a welder...

Can you get to the edge of it with a chisel? If so, you might be able to break it loose with a hammer and chisel.

hmmm... I'll try this next.

Have you tried these? They have a spiral gripping socket that worked wonders for me...

 

http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/9990000031818111?hei=600&wid=600&op_sharpen=1&qlt=90,0&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952160000P?keyword=bolt+head

Yup - this was actually the second kind I tried. The first was the kind that you drill into the bolt and then beat in the tool and try to back it out. For these the head was just too soft. They just spun it and didn't grab

Thanks everyone... If anyone else has any other thoughts, I'm still working on this...

If the screw is that soft, I would just drill the head off and keep going until I could get the tank off.

I had to drill a bolt out of the end of a crank shaft on a 1980 KZ 1300 b2. I first used my dremel and different grinding shapes to make a concave face on the broken end then pilot drill then a drii that left the thread 1mm. thick.

If the screw is that soft, I would just drill the head off and keep going until I could get the tank off.

I was hoping to avoid this, as I would like to be able to re-use that bolt hole to secure the tank when reinstalled...

I had the same thing happen to my first rsv, and did all the same things that you have done.

Ended up drilling through the center of the bolt with a drill bit that was just a bit smaller than the bolt. Then cleaning the threads with a metric tap.

There is enough metal there to tap to the next size or two larger, if you need to.

Good luck, mike

If you can find a reverse spiral drill bit the same diameter as the bolt (minus the threads) you can drill all the way through the bolt. First with a small bit then with the reverse bit. It may back out while you're drilling it. If not then just finish drilling it, then run a tap in to remove the bolt threads.

If the bolt is that soft, it should drill pretty easily.

If you drill to the point the tank will lift up there wont be any stress left on the threads. At that point you should be able to take a sharp center punch and strike it lightly on the edge of the screw to get it to turn. With the head gone they usually turn pretty easy. I run a machine that pounds all day long. The clamps that hold the steel have 4 little machine screws that hold the bottom plate on. They break all the time and ( usually 2 or 3 are broken before the steel starts slipping) and I usually have good luck with this method. If that doesn't work try a reverse drill bit a little smaller. A lot of times it will bite in and remove the screw.

Sounds to me like the threads are stripped. Can youn get a "pry" of some sort under the lip of the screw head? If so, pry it out while turning it....the remaining threads will catch and out it will come... (just a thought)

If the screw is that soft, I would just drill the head off and keep going until I could get the tank off.

Had the same thing happen when taking off the clutch slave. Drilled the head off and then used a stud extractor to pull what was left out after getting the slave off. The only thing I can think of that would mess this method is if there's very little of the stud left over to get a bite on it. All you'd need would be about a 1/4".

Alrighty... Sounds like I need to find a tap, some reverse threaded drill bits, and a sharp punch.

Rick: The head is right up against the washer, there is no way I could get anything in between them.

Thanks folks! Hopefully one of these methods will work...

Hey Beeev,

Those Jap tank bolts are real soft, what has happened is you got that one just a bit too tight and you have "pulled" the threads right off of the bolt. I would suggest that you run a tap drill right thru the bolt and the threaded hole on the tank bracket and use an SAE (american thread) tap the next size up and tap the hole after you take the tank off. And if it bugs you to have 2 different sizes of bolts on the tank, drill out the other threaded hole on the other side and tap it the same thread. Depending on what size the stock tank bolt is, I could send you a drill and tap for the cost of the shipping to use and you just send it back to me when you are finished. PM me if I can help you with this.

Earl

Hey Beeev,

Those Jap tank bolts are real soft, what has happened is you got that one just a bit too tight and you have "pulled" the threads right off of the bolt. I would suggest that you run a tap drill right thru the bolt and the threaded hole on the tank bracket and use an SAE (american thread) tap the next size up and tap the hole after you take the tank off. And if it bugs you to have 2 different sizes of bolts on the tank, drill out the other threaded hole on the other side and tap it the same thread. Depending on what size the stock tank bolt is, I could send you a drill and tap for the cost of the shipping to use and you just send it back to me when you are finished. PM me if I can help you with this.

Earl

Earl:

Thanks a lot! I may take you up on this - I'll poke around here a little bit to see if I can find what I need first and I'll let you know.

Thanks again,

- Rick

If it can wait, we can tackle it next Saturday at Jerry's.

If it can wait, we can tackle it next Saturday at Jerry's.

I guess if you don't mind, that'll work for me

I've drilled stuff out before, but never needed to use a tap...

What kind of tools should I bring?

can you drill or grind the head off the bad bolt and pull the good bolt on the other side of the tank, lift that side and slip the tank off the remaining stud of the bad side. then there might be enough meat to try again.

can you drill or grind the head off the bad bolt and pull the good bolt on the other side of the tank, lift that side and slip the tank off the remaining stud of the bad side. then there might be enough meat to try again.

The only way I can do this is if I bend the tank support - and even then, I'm not sure I'd be able to get it off... I had thought about this and I'm not ready to do that just yet.

Thanks

I guess if you don't mind, that'll work for me

I've drilled stuff out before, but never needed to use a tap...

 

What kind of tools should I bring?

I have drill bits, but don't have any taps.

If the head is still intact and since you cut those slots I dont see where an impact driver would do any damage. I have used it many times on those soft bolts. I usually replace them with new hex head bolts. As a matter of fact, both tank bolts are now hex bolts.

You dont need to pound the impact tool into submission, just make sure the driver tip is sitting in the slot fully and true and a couple of firm whacks should do it. And yes, do take some pressure off the bolt by raising the tank slightly.

sounds like youve tried all the tricks...so at this point i would guess the bolt head is so fubared that you are left with little option besides drilling it out. that sucks

i would grind off the sloppy chunks, and with a dremel or similar tool use a grinding stone either ball shaped or conical to get a good starting point close to center. use a good bit and some 3-1 oil and drill SLOW. also check to see whats on the back side so when you punch out you know you wont hit something vital or spendy to replace.

then, as was mentioned before, tap the hole out and off you go( sounds so easy to me sitting here in my living room!!!)

sounds like a tough spot...i dont envy you, and good luck

I have drill bits, but don't have any taps.

taps are relatively inexpensive at the hardware store, if you were going to use them alot i would invest in better but to cut a couple holes, or in this case one, they work just fine.