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Showing results for tags 'filter'.
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Changed my fuel filter yesterday and is it just me or does anyone else think that something as basic as a fuel filter should be a lot easier to do? Why would they make something like that so hard to get at unless it was to make work for mechanics at dealerships? The nut that the roll over valve uses is almost impossible to get your fingers on and I have small hands. Even hard to get a wrench back there. Wouldn't that be a good place for a welded nut instead of a loose one? Anyway, got it done and I'd do it again to save the cost of labor but it sure was a PITA. Has anyone found an easier way?
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Has anyone tried to change the filter in between oil changes on and RSV? I keep looking at where the filter is mounted and can't decide if it looks above or below the oil level.
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Here's a fairly dumb question, but I was just going to put the K&N's (ya-1399) in my '06 RSTD and looking at the directions it isn't real clear on whether to stick the included gaskets to the filter or to the airbox. I'm assuming the sticky tape side of the gasket affixes to the airbox and then the filter mashes down on top and is screwed in but I just thought I'd double check first before with you guys before I do it wrong and get a bad seal.
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not v r specific,but motorcycles in general. does the oem fuel filter "calibrate" or restrict" the amount of fuel that is delivered to the carbs? if you replace the oem filter, with a larger bore "inline" filter,would that in turn reduce your gas mileage and power? this is about a kz1000. two like bikes, one has twice the power of the other,and twice the fuel effeciency. just wondering if the fuel filter might be the reason. just jt
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When I purchased my '86 VR it had a K&N filter in it. I have no clue if the carbs were adjusted after it was installed. I've complained about it before, but for those that aren't up to speed on my problems, I can't get over 95 MPH regardless of gear and THAT has to be going downhill with a good tailwind. generally my top end is around 85 mph. My gas mileage is crappy, generally around 31 miles per gallon. All other possible problems with the bike aside, do ya'll think that there's a remote possibility that replacing this K&N with a stock air filter would fix my performance problems? If so, I can pick up a filter on my way home today and see what happens.. I just want the opinion of ya'll first 'cause I'm grasping at straws at this point.
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Attachment is the Oil Filter Cross Reference List from before the crash of August 06... NOTE: This is an old file. It has been reported that some of these filter, the Purolator in particular, have been redesigned and no longer work on our bikes. CrossReference.pdf
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I remember seeing many months ago a list of screw on filters that fit first gen ventures. I am sick of messing with that o ring. Anybody know of a filter that will work?
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I've seen some posts dissing the Supertech oil filter, so I decided to tear a new one apart for my own peace of mind. What I found was a surprisingly good filter for the $2.29 you pay at Walmart. This filter has all of the right parts in a well made package. See the pictures below for details. What you get for you money: A good anti-drain back valve. This is important in our bikes for two reasons: one, the filter is mounted horizontally. If the anti-drain back valve fails then dirty oil can leak back into the crankcase. Second, if the oil drains out of the filter then the engine oil pump has to fill the filter before it starts pumping oil to the engine at startup. The anti-drain back valve in the ST7317 was well made of a flexible nitrile material. The paper filter element had 43 pleats that were evenly distributed, except where the seam was. This gives about 86 square inches of filter material. For a comparison to other filters check out this link http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters The top and bottom of the filter element are metal. The filter element was sealed and glued at both ends. I've heard some manufacturers use a paper end on the filter element. I guess this is OK if you have a good bypass valve arrangement. This filter needs the metal end for the bypass valve to seal to. The filter I opened had a very normal coil spring bypass valve on the top of the filter element. This is more than adequate to protect your engine from lack of lubrication in the event of a clogged filter. By the way, if this feature gets used frequently in your oil filter you need to either let your bike warm up longer before you redline it, or change your oil more often. The filter gasket was smooth with no defects.So here is my challenge: if you have a different filter you like, tear it up and post some pictures. Lets see how they stack up.