djh3

On my Victory I added Kuryakin foot things. They displace the weight some and I added big fender washers under the lid.

I doubt you will have to make anymore repairs. Looks to me that it is now built like it should have to start.

Steve you can get "half height" nuts and double nut to nut lock it and skip the washer. http://www.pro-werks.com/partlist/998

WE got pounded last year with Irma-gedon. With what insurance paid compared to what I have paid since last time they had to pay out, I would have been better just putting the money in the bank. It will take us 4 or more years to recoup what it cost us. So hope you all get spared.

I think the black pegs go well with the matte and black finish of bike. I have the same style pegs on my XCT, they were on the RSV also. They are Kuryakin and use to be chrome, but the stuff started flaking off a couple years ago. Then it got really bad, so I wire brushed them and painted them with a black "hammered" type paint. For the money Kury charges you would think the finish would be more durable.

Wholeee sparks Bat Man, them is some big ole wires coming from that there electrical thingy on the right rear there. Must be sumtin important. Hope you took pics as it came apart. LOL

Man... the rite color bike, some emergency flashers and the next exit. Free roads. Last year I think it was. Wife and I were on way to NC, in northern Fla north of Gainsville/Ocala traffic comes to halt all 3 lanes. Well you dont site there on a V-Twin running sitting still. So 15-20 minutes later finally movement, very slow but some movement. Never did see what the clog up was. But man did it feel nice to get rolling.

When I got the Victory I bought one of those clear protective sets from a vendor Tank slapper. Mine was like $60 for front fender, tank and lower fairing and bags. The link says XV1600 I dunno if thats what the new Venture is.

Dont wear shorts or flip flops. There is some heat as I remember but nothing terrible. My Victory is way hotter, all be it in a little different location. Figure your straddling a small auto engine between your legs.

OK My .02 on noise. If it rattles with clutch engaged IE handle out and then you pull clutch in, I would lean towards something in that system. What that could be I'm not sure. I have never had the clutch system apart on one of these.

Here is 2 more I dont find, and know for sure are on there. Victory oil and Polairis/Indian oils.

Well while not going quite that far north, the wife and I are planning a trip around Oct 13 to NC.

I beg to differ [h=3]OEM Specifications and Approvals for Shell ROTELLA® T6 full synthetic heavy duty engine oil[/h] API: CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4 ACEA E9; JASO DH-2; Cummins CES 20086; Volvo VDS-4.5; Detroit Fluid Specification (DFS) 93K222, Caterpillar ECF-2/ECF-3, MAN M3575, JASO MA/MA2, Allison TES 439, MB-Approval 228.31

some type of wearable, lubeable bushing VS rubber will probably end issue

I think I am grasping how this goes together now. The pointy rod gizmo is secured at the end (both maybe) the bushings go on and the "A arm" is supported by the rod/bushing combo. You can buy some solid rod at tractor supply or probably any welding/metal fab shop you have there in your area. Get long enough you could thread or pin. You could double nut end also.

you could drill end of rod and use an R clip,or a cotter key or brush off them aircraft skills and drill nut and safetywire.

Quickly reading thru this and I got kind of lost in description. But I get your going to install brass bushings in the A arms in front instead of the rubber ones. I would do the same in the back if it was me. I dont know if you have access or can get the arms out. But what if you had a threaded "bung" essentially its a nut inside a tube at the point you would need and use a shanked hardened bolt thru the bushing. Sounds like you have a plan anyways. Rubber bushings are both cheap and quiet. But long lasting they are not, and it dont look like they wanted to make them very replaceable either. Try tractor supply for your brass bushings. We have some NOS bushings from a store that closed out and I have several floating around at the school.

Hit that about the best place he could, it looks like. I have had a couple of glancing blows from smaller birds and that aint fun neither.

When you get some pictures Steve I would be interested in a look see. If it has a pin through it, I think you may be able to work out a plan to use a grade 8 bolt or some way to sleeve it and bolt. The axles on my Legends car were a shortened OEM Toyota. They cut the solid axle shaft and welded a tube/sleeve over it. Best way use racers figured out how to do this was drill a hole thru the tube, so when you had it together you could weld around end and at drilled hole fo a bit of extra.

Are you by chance running for a political office? The other couple statements that sound similar are "I'll love you in the morning" & "the check is in the mail".

Last night after I got off site I was thinking I should have suggested the jumper/ground wire. It has worked well for me in the past to help troubleshoot some lighting issues.

Had a neighbor when I was stationed in Oklahoma. He had a Chevy Baretta he bought new when he was home in Indiana. A year or so goes by and car starts overheating. He takes to local dealer and they him and haw about things basically dont want to do anything because wasnt bought there. Would do minimal things but now your talking head gasket possibly more. So they finaly get into it and he gets some kind of BS about a month on parts etc. He called GMAC GM's finance branch and tells them he aint payin them until the dealer gets the car rolling. It must have lit a fire because by end of week he had car back.

Well my basic experience on lighting is this. When lights are dim or start not lighting correctly, go to a ground source. If one of the lights does not have a good ground it will try to find one. If it has to it will go backwards so to speak and use say the other front light ground. But because it has to go the extra distance it is a "weaker" ground and thus will not draw the "correct current" if you want to think about it like that. The flasher needs to "see" a certain resistance to work. If its less it kind of works faster.

Down this way it use to be "South of the Boarder" bumper Stickers. Was (maybe still is) a gas/souvenir stop in South Carolina I think.

Well, this is interesting. Far as I remember switch is bolted to frame and tank sits around it. I guess heat from engine could rise and create some heat. But this is getting crazy.