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Actually the MC2 front in the 190 size is rated higher than the manual calls for. Manual calls for a 71h front and the MC2 is a 73, weight wise thats 761# to 805# and both rears are at 827#. the Shinko tourmaster is an 80v rated tire 992#.

Once in a while I will hit it just right and it seems to have quite a bit of slack. I really think its more backlash in the ring gear than u-joint. the driveshaft would also give you the same thing on deceleration also with a "bang or clunk"

I had a small cargo trailer without ramps for a small (1200#) race car. I bought a pair of the metal ramps from harbor freight. They were not long wnough so I added 2x8 bolted together with big fender washers. you would have to check weight rating on the ramps. now I did have a flat cargo trailer simular to your without the flip down ramps, so yours having the ramps makes it easier actually. I went to the county road and bridge dept. They had torn som old wodden bridges out and had some boards from the road part of the wooden bridge. Maybe 3"x12" all cresoted and heavy !!!! But I loaded everything from 3000# stock car to tractors with a disc on those and never had a problem. Lots of fellows also used what we called PSP. It is the flat metal they use for portable runways. http://calumetindustries.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/06/_1-psp-mats-001.jpg

I guess I should have actually said if after the normal type bleeding, that is open valve, push pedal down, close and repeat a couple times watching for bubbles. If you then still have a sponge pedal try the pump up and bleed a couple times. It should help force air the the bleeder. I would say normally you only need to open bleeder and push pedal. what I normally do every couple years as it only took once to have a brake issue in the mountains, is change the brake fluid every couple years. I use a syringe and suck old fluid out, but leave some in the intake hole in reservoir so as to not get air in. fill reservoir and proceed to bleed watching the level. Once its clear fluid in the bleed hose your good.

I watch for the crown in the center. You know, where all the pavement is pushed towards the center of the lane. I try to never be in the center, it higher and too much crap (oil, anti-freeze, water from AC) Mostly I try to slow up coming up to the stop so I can sort of coast. I think I use the rear a bit more as I dont feel the fronts have the grip power my 90 vulcan had so I'm cautious.

So I wounder if this includes off road machines also, or just "road registered". But it was taken off a population type survey. So South Dakota has whatever 20K folks living there and 6k ride. Calif has a million peeps and 80k ride percentage wise its less people. Still pretty cool that those states that have winter beat out us that have summer most of the year.

Neil-I presume your talking fuel pump rite?

No 150/80 or whatever the OEM size is. They have a 130/90 which is a tick taller and narrower. Some say it makes a bit quicker steering @ slower speeds. I dont notice it.

I have had them on min e for over 17K. I like the rain traction better than the E-3. the E-3 would lock up in a NY second. No tread in center of tire to dissipate water was my recollection. I will tell you I had my fair share of rear lock ups in the wet, but was usually shortly after a rain storm started. As for cornering I have not noticed it being slippery or anything like that. I did just replace the rear with a Shinko as the rear was getting down @ 17,500 miles. Front still looking good. Your pressure is down from what was recommended to me by Michelin. they told me 40 front and rear one up or solo touring normal gear. And max press 2 up and gear.

I think I would go for that Elio thing or whatever they call it. Its supposed to be $6400 bucks, and it has a roof.

From what I have read and post #18 above it looks like your good. Dont you hate when you buy something brand new and in a week its junk. Batteries over the last say 10 yr have gotten terrible. I guess because they try to make them lighter and cheaper and the plates etc just wont hold up. Its bad when a "cheap" battery for your car is close to $100 and thats like 550 cca

OK I hate to go the KISS route but......... Are you using a bleeder bottle? Make sure there is a loop in the hose and it goes up hill before it goes in the bottle. this will help to keep from pulling air on when you release the pedal. If you can get a helper that would be good. Pump the pedal a couple times, then hold pressure on it. then open the wrench slowly to let fluid out, you dont need to stand on the pedal, just even pressure. Once its down hold it and close the valve. Repeat a couple times and check level. The master don't hold a lot of fluid. If your by yourself trying to do this its a pretty tuff trick, you can use a piece of board to push the pedal. I have a vacuum bleeder and its OK to get a draw through when changing fluid. But I dont trust if for a complete air free bleed. I did go and invest in the speed bleeders earlier this year and man does that really help on the clutch. I think maybe $20 all in on 4 bleeders.

Probably one of my favorite comedians. George Carlin also. I remember seeing a HBO special of his, it was probably an hour long show. I was so sore by the time it got done. Definitely an original. Peace to him and his family.

Post #4 Man I hope you get this sorted out. But I dont really miss the 4 e-mails a day. So I know your out riding some anyways.

Contact Steve M61A1MECH. He is a wiz on the trailer wiring and makes some plug in stuff. Even though he jumped ship to big red.

Mines listed in profile.

Sarges--Look at your rear shock. If the backend is wiggling and bottoming, I think more than likely its ka-put. You running any kind of pressure in it?

I did post a link for you to get started. I had a hard time getting around the site when I first got here also. you will pick it up once you surf around a bit. As someone previous mentioned. Most dealers are not very up on these things. they may se maybe 4 a year.

Joe if you use the link it will take you to the site. They have a drop down to select the color and size. Or use the search window on thier site and it will come up. I like the screamin yellow one. http://www.jafrum.com/Shop-By-Brand/Nolan-N44-N-COM-Helmets/Nolan-N44-Hi-Visibility-Helmet#

Safety wire them. Come from the last couple of holes around the screw head and wrap. They cant go anywhere.

Bronco, thanks for looking us up. Spend a little time reading around on your new ride and I think youll find its $12 well spent. Here is the post on the steering head. I know when I first started looking here I kind of found things hard to find, sections etc. So I'll help you out. also on your tracking if the tires are getting down towards the end of life the rears will start to "cup" sometimes one side a bit more and it will draw the bike some one way. Look at profile of rear from the side like from one saddle bag to the other close to floor. The Avons had some pretty bad times when they would split at or around the bead area.

Bolens, wernt they big in the lawn mower makin dept? I spent a little time in Michigan thumb area in early 70's. also a couple winters vacations at an uncles lake house on lake Manistee. He had a snow machine that was an Evenrude,a neighbor had a McCulloch I think it was. It seems everyone that made outdoor equipment, outboards or the like made some sort of snowmobile. shoot even John Deere and Allis Chalmers. One of my other uncles had an AC dealer and at that time they sold them 6 wheel ATV things that use to be on HR Puff n stuff show.

Is this the same helmet? For almost $40 less? Faceshield here.

One thing I can think of is you may have what we use to call "dieseling" or "run on" after you turn the engine off. Because the RPM are high and of course drawing more fuel it will want to run after the key is off. It will stop, but it just has a clunky pingy sound momentarily.

Fleet and farm should have some steel wool that will work. The fiberglass dont last long. Ask anyone that had the old cherry bombs. 3-4 weeks and they were like straight pipes.