djh3

Looks to me plug in your numbers on your scoot. Height weight etc. Then on bottom it gives some dimensions. Compare those to what your would be on the other bike

From where I sit most all of you are yankees. We normally try to schedule our trip on the bike the 2nd week in Oct up to Nc mountains. Last couple years has been hot traveling even then. But I know the ones starting from Way up there say Ohio north might get caught in some bad stuff.

I use the Rotella. Weather in syn or dino. Both are good oils. A galon of the dino will run you about 20 bucks and the syn 22 @ wally world.

A word of advice. I have done a couple of these. The way I recommend installing is when you get the shock it will have a set screw looking thing on the bottom of the shock. This is to adjust the rebound I think. Anyways you will want access to this if you change loads. Say you normally ride one up and then decide to go 2 up with gear. You will need a bit more stiffening of the shock. the supplied allen wrench will go in this adjuster and take the setting up or down. So install the shock so this screw is accessible from the right hand side of the bike. That way when its on the side stand you can get at it a little easier as it is higher on that side.

Glad it worked for you. Thats one thing I like about that style of peg. It is very adjustable to suit your fit. At $60 thats about 1/3 of new.

Funny thing is I never watched the show in prime time slot when it was on. I was stationed in Oklahoma and was working swing shift for awhile. When I would come home the news was going off and Cheers was after the late news. so as I was unwinding from the day thats when I started watching it.

Didnt the early ones (4cyl) use the KZ 1000 motor?

RTV works pretty well. Best luck I have had with it on plastic stuff is to let it semi-set up. Then install screws. It just sort of "gums" up the threads but does sufficiently enough they dont seem to back out.

You can start by looking here maybe.

I have sync'd up my GPS and ODO on trips, and have to agree the ODO is pretty dang close. I think less than 3-5 miles difference on a long trip of say 6-700 miles. been awhile now so not exactly sure but I dont recall it being 10-15 miles for sure.

Tank is easy to get off once you find the front bolts. I think I looked forb30 min first time I went to pull mine. One bolt either side of front part of frame by forks sort of. The other is under the seat, rear center of seat, its like 12mm bolt. The fronts should be like 5mm allen I think it is. Turn petcock to off.

For just fit over stuff your going to be limited I think. The wife has a couple pairs of fit over sun glasses. I have a pair of them also in amber for overcast days or rain. So far have not had the fogging problem. Your other option is probably goggles that will fit over your specs. Personaly I like having my Rx sunglasses. Looking into getting some new ones. Benn looking into the Wyle X as thats best price on our insurance. Wyle has some listed as motorcycle and have a foam seal kind of thing, and it is removable if you dont care for it. And they are ansi shatter resistant.

I allways like the milke bone underwear one. Some of those sure are the way I feel lately looking fore decent job and sending resumes out.

Thats a nice days ride. I dont like to do them all the time. But off and on I kind of like it. I made like 775 in 12.5 a couple years ago. I was tired, but not wore out. Does that make sense? It was fun, had a good friend to ride the first 200 or so miles with. Fill ur up ride, repeat. Hope you a good ride both ways.

ANybody have input on Carbon pads? I just bought a pair from what I have heard they have a little better wear than OEM but dont destroy to rotor.

As luck would have it I found just the parts your looking for down here by me. they are off a 31k mile bike. Only asking $5800. Comes with lost of spare parts besides just what you need. LOL OK so obvious question is have you checked pinwall?

To bad it vibrated so bad it shook the speedo to where it didnt register correctly. Well that would be my story.......

A couple yaers back when I first got the RSV, we were in NC. I had not ever read about the brake fluid issues. Well after dang near running some JA in Range Rover we,were following down mountain roads and my back brake went to the floor. The dummy was riding brakes terrible. I put distance between us to start, and started using the motor way befor they went south. Short story is they went to the floor, I down shifted to 1st and used as much fronts as I could and still be safe. Got to a state park and pulled off. 10 min or so later they felt fine and we continued. Full flush happened on all 3 hydro systems when I got home. Since then I think the system has been flushed every year.

The 3rd pic of mine shows the spacer thing I got from Kirby. It fits where the hndlebars were orginaly. I think you could use a cheap socket that has the same OD. Then drill the riser in that half moon section and tap it to 1/4 20 thread, and run the bolt thru the socket and tighten. I think definatly the easy fix is the rubber spring spacer thing though.

Seen one around here off and on. So I looked up spec one time. Has like aFord escort motor and trans I think. Steering wheel to me just about = car.

To say the least they are dodgey. Some guys have the original and have many 10's of thousands of miles, some only get 20k. But I have to kind of agree it sounds adjustment, or jet related. Like the amount of fuel required for said speed and load is not getting there. Kind of like the old Holley 4bbl when the base gasket use to blow out. Would run like heck but no low speed or idle.

Do the stand alone test for the voltage regulator also. If I read this right you have done the test on the stator and it comes out bad? If so thats the most probable answer.

Well WD works good on a lot of stuff. But locks might not be a first choice in my book. It is an oil, and therefor has a tendency to collect dirt and then make a bad situation worse. See if this link will work for you about repairing the switch. You will have to look in "tech library" then 2nd gen electric.

The lock cylinder can be taken apart, cleaned and greased up. How worn are the grooves in key? Do they look worn and rounded off?

Glad you came out OK. On to the bike. Most insurance companies if I remember right when you get to 60% of value they write it off. From what I have read in last couple weeks with guys having plastic bit broke they get expensive fast.