Prairiehammer

He states that the plastic was badly repaired, so he used decals and stickers to hold it together.

Thank you, Pat for the additional information.

That plastic device is a dampener for the vacuum source for the boost sensor (vacuum advance). There should be no fuel in that hose. Perhaps, the fuel you see is actually coming out of one of the carb bowl drain hoses and running onto that vacuum hose? Surely, the person who redid your carbs didn't mistakenly hook up that hose to one of the bowl drain hoses? The bowl drain hoses should only have fuel coming out of them when the carb bowl drain valve is open or leaking.

For the '83, either a Crescent wrench or screwdriver are needed to change from OFF to ON (there is no RESERVE on most 1983), but be warned (!) that the plastic valve is sometimes difficult to change positions without breaking the exposed part of the petcock. If the slot in the petcock is vertical it is ON. (See accompanying pic). On the 1984, there is an arrow to designate position. Broadly, if the knob is horizontal it is OFF. In the vertical position it is either ON or RES, depending on the arrow (See accompanying pic.)

SOME, early 1983 exhibited breakage of the frame near the rear shock relay arm connection and the center stand mount. Is that what you are asking about?

Attached are my scans from the various manuals I own. It appears that the MKI have a more frequent valve inspection/adjustment. Perhaps, Yamaha decided after three years that the frequent valve inspections were unneeded?

There is a difference in fuel petcocks and fuel pump circuitry between 1983 (as your post title indicates) and 1984 (as your profile indicates). What is the full VIN of your bike? Look on the lower frame rail beneath the brake pedal. The 1983 fuel petcock is tool operated and hidden behind the right side cover. The 1984 petcock has a hand operable knob and is visible with the side cover on. The 1984 fuel pump circuitry has two relays, the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump control unit.

Usually, when the resume light is lit but one is unable to set the cruise it is due to either clutch lever switch, brake lever switch, rear brake pedal switch or wiring to and from these switches. Insure that the plunger within the lever switches (especially the clutch lever switch) is free and extending fully when the levers are at rest. Disassemble and clean the lever switches. Make sure there are no open or shorted wires on these switches.

All Yamaha 1983-1993 XVZs and Yamaha FJ, VMX take 25mm shims, as do many Hondas and some Triumphs, so don't get fixated on finding shims JUST intended for the Venture.

Thank you, Kim for your contribution to the database. Yes, it helps. Yours is one of the oldest in my database still on the road.

PayPal sent for two silver. Thanks.

http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=81 BTW: to zero each gauge, remove the dial cover and tweek the exposed screw on the dial. http://goldwingdocs.com/images/HowTo/CarbSync/CarbSync02.jpg

Brad, is it $1 shipping per each sticker or $1 per shipment (for instance I want 2 stickers; is that total $7 or $8?)

While you are at the auto parts store, pick up a five-way vacuum manifold or splitter. Connect a source of vacuum (a Mity-Vac is ideal) to one nipple and your four gauges to the other nipples. When you apply vacuum to the splitter, all gauges should read identically. If not, then perhaps there is some adjustment capability on the gauges.

There very well may be fuel in the bowls after the stall, but not enough fuel to feed the jets. Hook up a clear hose to the bowl drains. Note the fuel bowl level. Take the bike for a ride. After the stall, observe the fuel bowl level.

I can't help you with the E-clip position on the needle; the US carbs don't have an adjustable needle like your Canadian carbs. I would suggest that a medium high position would be a place to start. Perhaps the jets were changed as well? The apparently deliberate holes in the diaphragms are inexplicable.

Recently, I did some research concerning Venture TCIs. This is what I have found as far as numbering. 1983 TCI: TID14-17, 26H-10 1984 TCI: TID14-28, 41R-10 1985 TCI: TID14-34, 41R-11 1986 TCI: TID14-34, 41R-11 1987 TCI: TID14-34, 41R-11 1988 TCI: TID14-34, 41R-11 1989 TCI: TID14-34, 41R-11 1990 TCI: TID14-94, 3JJ-00 (with the 55 mph glitch) 1991 TCI: TID14-94 B, 3JJ-10 1991 TCI: TID14-94 C, 3JJ-11 (EURO) I do not know the differences between the two 41R versions, however, I suggest that the later revision (41R-11) made some form of improvement to the 41R-10. Note that the TCI "TYPE" number is different (TID14-28 vs. TID14-34). Note also the difference in the various 1990-1993 TCI. (TID14-94, TID14-94B, TID14-94C).

The pilot (idle mixture) screws (not to be confused with the pilot jets) are accessible without removing the carbs.

Never heard or seen that from Yamaha concerning a First Gen, but sellers can be very inventive. Does he say what makes it a "Limited Edition"?

Yep, agreed. (And I use a mercury manometer).

Brad, I would like two in silver. What is the current price that I should send via PayPal?

Maybe you could post a pic of your trunk rack installed?

Perhaps that is true for certain racks intended for the GL, but the ShowChrome rack that I had was for a 1988-2000 GL1500, and it fit and worked nicely on @Semi-retired Second Gen.

Jim, the PSI graphic is printed and permanently displayed. It is not a part of the LCD display. The CLASS only displays and operates when in the ACC position of the ignition switch. There is no display when the ignition switch is in the ON position. Have you checked the CLASS fuse?

Unlikely you will be able make the fairing edge trim from these photos, but here is a set of pics off the bike and on the fairing.