Prairiehammer

I entered a pin on the map but it didn't update the map that the OP linked to. You have to continue to "Step Three" where you get another URL to post. http://mapfling.com/qaiziof and I don't see anyone else except the OP pins and mine. Seems like the Venture Sightings map is easier for multiple collaborators.

One thing I noticed about Mapfling: If nobody has looked at a particular MapFling map for 3 months, then it will expire, and all information in it (map position, markers, descriptions) will be lost. The Venture Sightings/Google Map never expires.

Well, all of the above is already done with the "Venture Sightings" map: left side list of all "pins", as much details as the "pinner" wants to add and if you zoom in on the icons you can get the GPS coordinates of the "pin". (zoom in to icon, right click it, click "What's here?" and the GPS coordinates show in the upper most window, next to "GOOGLE"). The "Sightings" map is powered by Google Maps and is accessible and editable while using your mobile smart phone.

Randy, If using FireFox: instead of clicking on the BACK button, click on it and hold till the history drop down menu appears, then slide the cursor down to the last desired page and click it. This bypasses all the ad type pages. Also, try the uninstall instructions for Coupon Companion here: http://malwaretips.com/blogs/remove-coupon-companion-ads/

Yeah, I tried that after thinking about it, Joe. Was able to click EDIT>click blue balloon>drag balloon to where I wanted itand clicked>click on newly placed balloon>dialogue box opens with opportunity to add name and description>click on blue balloon icon within dialogue box to select different icon instead of blue balloon. Most choose the green motorcycle. I changed friesman's icon from the blue balloon to a snowflake since he don't have a motorcycle right now and is in the Great White North.

There ain't no "EDIT" button on my screen.

Andrew, I've never done this to a Venture mirror, but it worked on my Chevy truck. The glass is attached with double faced foam tape. Heat the glass with a hair dryer and simultaneously pry gently with a putty knife to remove the glass. Once the glass is removed the ball joint swivel is revealed. Remove a couple screws and the mirror head can be removed from the ball. Reinstall in reverse and use new double face tape to re-adhere the glass. I caution again that I have not done this on the Venture, but I assume it to be similar. Edit: I found a pic of a Venture mirror without the glass. It appears that the glass is held in by the rubber lip surrounding it. Perhaps some glue as well? Once the glass is safely removed (use the hair dryer to soften the rubber/plastic) it appears that removing three screws will enable access to the (presumed) swivel joint.

Randy, Others have had the problem. Go here for a discussion and possible causes. http://www.sevenforums.com/browsers-mail/231976-does-internet-explorer-9-back-button-not-work-correctly-you-2.html

That Venture is either a 1988 or 1989. Not an '86. And gots a few blings on it.

Please, if you have Bridgestone tires and they have been subjected to below freezing temperatures (even during storage) read this and then go check your tires before you ride. Scary! Makes Avons look minor. http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=110552

I too lost my VR guardian bell last year. I had mounted it to the lowest engine guard bolt through the key ring. And like others have found the constant movement of the pewter bell on the steel key ring wore through the soft pewter eye-ring. Aaron Straka gave me his bell from his 'Wing trike. When I got home I sent him my spare VR bell. I revised the mounting of the replacement bell by using a nylon zip-tie to secure the pewter eye to the steel key ring instead of having the pewter in direct contact with the key ring. It still moves and rings, but it has shown no further wear to the bell eye nor to the zip-tie.

Brian, it looks like "011.1" to me. My guess is that the trip meter was reset upon impact, but as sometimes happens it didn't reset all the way to zero.

Al, the part number is the same for the standard meter harness and the Royale meter harness, so I am assuming the clusters interchange.

You are very Welcome, Mike. Glad I could fulfill some of your fantasies.

John, Here are some pics of Nacho's carb surgery. Once the tunnel was opened up, he was able to cut a groove into the screw head and finally back it out. Be sure to blow all the swarf away before attempting to take the screw out.

My mistake, Carl. Sorry. So air rushing past an orifice in a venturi pulls a vacuum on the container? I bet that is a noisy exercise as well as requiring a high cfm capability.

Nacho Altes had a stripped idle mix screw. He used a Dremel tool to carve away the carb body to allow a groove to be cut into the screw head and then used a straight screwdriver to finally get it out. I'll see if I can find his pictures of the operation.

Fan kicking on?

I don't think the BikeMaster bleeder that he linked to uses compressed air. It is a hand vacuum pump.

+1 on Mity-Vac Everything I've seen with BikeMaster on it is made in China. My ten year old Mity-Vac is made in USA. Can't vouch for the current crop, though. I've never tried it, but perhaps you could bleed two front discs simultaneously with the Mity-Vac utilizing the "T" fitting and another length of hose. If you can use Harbor Freight, they offer the Mity-Vac for $37US. http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html Sears has various Mity-Vac bleeders: http://www.sears.com/tools-mechanics-auto-tools/c-1020137?sName=View%20All&sbv=Mityvac&sbf=Brand [url=http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html][/url]

Here is our trip around Lake Superior in 2011. We hit most all the places you are seeking. Although, Galena wasn't part of THAT trip, you can see that we took a meandering route home from Copper Harbor to near Galena (Freeport). Zoom in and you can see the route numbers. There is not a QUICK route from Galena to the UP if the Interstates are out of the picture. http://goo.gl/maps/epPwP

Ride In Peace, Dusty

Larry, Although the AGM SHOULD have come with a decent charge, the instructions that came with mine said to charge it if the voltage was less than 11.5 volts. It also said to use a 2 amp charge rate for 12-14 hours or until the voltage was above 12.75. Only then should a maintainer be used. Another thing I have read on the forums concerning the maintainers: many will NOT charge if the battery voltage is less than 9 volts. One must charge that battery with a conventional charger to bring the voltage up into the operating range for the maintainer. I accidently discharged my AGM last summer because I left the trunk open on the '90. When I discovered my mistake the AGM was less than 2 volts. Researching the internet I found that the AGM must be charged from that low voltage with a NON-automatic charger as most automatic chargers will not charge if it senses such a low voltage. I charged the nearly dead AGM with an old Schumacher manual charger for a few hours at 6 amps. Put the maintainer on when the voltage was about 12 volts and let 'er cook over night. Next morning, battery voltage was 13.7 volts. That discharged AGM has performed as new ever since. Have you checked the output of the Junior? Have you taken a voltage reading on the AGM?

Battery Tender website says the Jr. is for AGM. http://batterytender.com/battery-tender-junior-12v-at-0-75a.html

Dion, The copper based high-temp should be used on the high heat fasteners. The aluminum based stuff I have, specifically discourages use in a high heat environment. I don't use the aluminum based anti-seize when screwing steel parts into aluminum. Seems like the aluminum anti-seize would not prevent seizing in aluminum engines. My description details the composition of the two anti-seize products, not necessarily the color. The Fel-Pro contains copper. The NAPA product contains aluminum. I've noted that some newer anti-seize products are aluminum based with a copper COLOR. Not the same.