Trader

been grinding the head where it was mashed over the buckets. so far no success in releasing the valves and buckets. I can rotate the buckets by tapping them but they are by no means free....the buckets still won't return to normal height. I tried grabbing the shim bucket with a pair of needle nose but I can't get it out no how! I know they should because I tried one that was loose and it lifted out easily. I'm going to have to replace the shim buckets because there is no way to avoid grinding them at the same time. I zip tied the cam chain to the cam gears and removed the exhaust cam so I could work on the shim bucket area. in case I have to remove the heads.. I found the cam chain link but it looks as if both lobes are a grooved split rivet that spreads to hold. Do I just squeeze the split rivet together to remove or do I have to grind it off? I'm thinking probably not but I figured I'd ask to be sure......Are the heads and valves of a 1200 the same size as a 1300? I'm Thinking of my parts bike and just swapping heads

Gotta ask... WHY WOULD YOU WANT TO?

Just for curiosity I priced valve stem seals from the stealer. $16 and change EACH!!!! so that's not going to be done either. Not that I need it....thank goodness! I'm trying to get the valves loose without pulling the head. Just as well...they said the head gaskets are back ordered anyway

once again Jeff is right on! Instead of pulling the heads I just lifted the exhaust cams. This is what I found....

Makes me wonder if the back end of this bike got wiped out. MkI rear end and rear calipers.

yes thanks Rick. seeing as these rear calipers only have 2 Pistons they have to be off a mkI???

So is the "EBC FA123HH" designation the size of brake pad or part number or is that a material designation that is common to other size pads? you can see in the pic that it shows rear pads but the same OEM number. My order showed that I did order the rear pad.

Ummmm Thanks Eck....I think Didn't come close to answering my question but now we all know we have to order 2 sets for the front of whatever bike:smile5:

According to everything I've read these pads are the right ones for my bike BUT THEY ARE TOO WIDE! EBC FA123HH I was told I have a Mk I rear end in my 88...so it makes me wonder .... The rear caliper looks the same as on my 84 parts bike... is the Mk I rear caliper different from a mkII ? I already threw out the old pads so I don't have them to compare these pads for sure don't fit!

I always end up on hands and knees to see it. If your oil is too full it will be totally dark, making it harder to see. Oil level should only be 1/2 way up the sight glass with the bike level and balanced on it's wheels

Weren't you really close to buying a Spyder and trailer a couple of years ago? Is one of those still a consideration?

It is certainly loud enough to hear if it is pumping

Been riding with your fuzzy slippers lately?

I have to pull both heads. I have 2 stuck exhaust valves on both cyl #2 and #3 and nothing I've tried so far has released them. So...other than head gaskets, what other gaskets or seals or whatever do I have to order? Forget V-max heads...not in the budget. Once the heads are off and I get the valves released what should I be doing while I have it open. This has turned into a marathon and Summer's coming!!!

$12 a year is a pretty cheap way to stay in touch with the folks you have met here. I enjoy the site for the entertainment value too. Whatever you choose to do...stay safe and have fun!

Never seen Carl with so little to say! So when are you trading in Tweeks?

I've found v-max heads on eBay...but none I saw had the cams in. I would assume the cams are different (more aggressive) than the stock venture?

Here's another one!

:mo money::mo money: Would be be nice but just not in the budget...this is all costing too much already!

Well...I tried stuffing the cyl. with cotton rope to use the piston to press the valves back in place. No joy. I tried tapping and looked for any burrs that might be stopping it...still nothing. so unless anybody has any ideas I think I have to pull the heads. Good grief...this all started just chasing a fuel line leak...and I end up going deeper and deeper! So I'm sure that will create a million more questions! If I end up pulling the heads should I be doing anything else while I'm at it?

I think I would face the other way so I'm not chiselling between myself and the arm. I've. Seen cartoons of characters cutting branches off trees that way...it never ends well! Unless he didn't want the view so close...he'd rather look at the solid arm.

Cost me $55 C for just installing the tire and balance off the bike. a lot of shops won't install a tire they didn't sell...saying for liability reasons

I looked at it closer today and it seems both valve shim buckets for the exhaust on #2 and#3 cyl are not returning to full height. I can't check the compression until I can borrow a tester with a longer stem. Mine won't reach. It makes me wonder if Flyinfool has the right idea. The exhaust valve stems or springs might be crudded up so much it caused them to bind because the valve tool compressed the valves more than the normal range and corrosion or crud jammed them I use sea foam pretty regularly but I can't think of any other reason. So....how do I get them loose without tearing the heads off? google provided 2 possible answers... 1) stuff a firm cotton rope in the cyl. thru the spark plug hole and crank the engine by hand. I guess the rope is supposed to push the valve up 2) basically the same idea using grease....making a fitting and filling the cyl and forcing grease up the valve stem of the open valves and lubing it. So...what do you think?

Just to close this thread... It turned out that the push rod was extending on its own so when I cracked the bleeder and pushed the rod back in...by the time I got the clutch back in, the rod was extended again and the clutch was frozen. It seems simple but took awhile to figure out. We put the clutch together AGAIN but this time we loosened the bleeder while we tightened the spring. Then once the clutch was in, we had to bleed it and everything was good!

I think you have the names mixed up. 83-85 are 1st Gen, MK I 86-93 are 1st Gen Mk II 2nd gen are 97 and up. I've had both style 1st Gen clutches..and the only difference I noticed is the 83-85 (MK I) clutch has 6 individual springs where the MK II is a plate type spring. I have redone both types and been happy with both I have no idea about a 2nd gen.