lsutley

Jeff, A few of questions: Is there sufficient subsoil drainage to move the water away from the patio? Is there enough slope away from the patio area to pipe the accumulated water from the stone base? Do you have a basement? If so will the patio be against the exterior basement wall? No mater the preparation, if there is no way to effectively drain the water from beneath the pavers there will be problems if you have below freezing temperatures. Driveway matting or other semipermeable membrane between the stone and sand will help keep the sand in place. Poly sand can be used to fill in between the pavers as a finishing step. The poly sand will harden a bit to keep the sand from coming up and out from between the pavers. It will also prevent the random seeds from finding a suitable home to sprout. My standard practice is to mix some Portland with the sand to firm up the substrate before laying the pavers. Wet the sand mix and wait until the next day to lay. Not enough for a hard mix, just enough to make the sand somewhat more cohesive under foot. The pavers are then laid using a little additional sand for leveling. I might have considered such a job when I was 30 but I have learned since to be more selective when sacrificing my back. A 10 X 30 area one foot deep will grow exponentially with every shovel full of dirt removed. Whatever you decide, good luck with the project!!

I have been a member of the Retreads off and on for 30 years. We have a local chapter that is active in the area from Pittsburgh to Erie PA. They are headquartered in Cambridge Springs PA. You can catch a ride at least once a month with the group and a lot more often with individual members. WPA Retreads Representative Kim Docter 27553 MILLER STATION RD. CAMBRIDGE SPRINGS, PA 16403-4351 Local: 814-398-4918 Retread Chapters RETREADS® General Links Provides access to many Retreads Organizations New England Mahoning Valley Retreads NEW December 2010! Mid Atlantic Region Rhode Island All of Ontario Canada Washington Foothills (So. Alberta) There is another club that caters to the more mature rider: the North American 40+ Touring Riders. My wife and I were members of the New York Chapter in the 80's. North American 40+ Touring Riders 865 FRERICK RD. FRANKFORT, NY 13340 http://www.cnyhomepage.biz/images/nav_top/phone_black_20x20.png 315-894-8051

One of the reasons that I use soda as a blast media is that it is 100% soluble in water. There is virtually no impingement into the base material and a thorough washing in warm water with soap seems to be adequate in removing any residue. The soda leaves a film that has a positive PH that will neutralize paint that uses an acid etching process for adhesion. A thorough washing with soap and water will remove the film. For added insurance vinegar, or a commercially available product, can be added to the wash solution to neutralize the soda. I have soda blasted many of the formerly polished aluminum parts of my 86 Venture and then covered them with clear coat for aluminum wheels. There have been no issue develop with the paint adhering to the aluminum. Soda blasting is like most every other process, there are proper methods, to be followed, for a successful outcome.

The adware is a sneaky lot. As hard as I try to keep abreast of all the new PIA threats there are still a few that will get through. There is a program available for free, Revo Uninstaller, that will uninstall the offender and then scan the system for the leftover bits and pieces that remain. The last and most persistent bug I found would reinstall itself in a temp file, during the uninstall process, only to return later. Took a while to get that bugger but it is dead now. Try the Revo and it will track all newly installed programs that can be eliminated later.

Gary (dingy) has converted his Gen I and is in the process of another with his hybrid. My 86 is using the COP's from a 2008 Honda CBR 1000 with the Ignitec CDI conversion. Gary seems to be the authority for this conversion (where I obtained mine) and will likely chime in soon. This is a very clean installation and opens up a large area with the OEM coils removed.

I have been driving my 2001 Dodge diesel for over 10 years with little or no problems. It replaced a Chevy with a 454 that achieved a 6 mpg average. The diesel gets between 15 and 18 mpg. The diesels come in the 3/4 and one ton models and both can be had with single rear wheels. Each manufacturer has their strong and weak points and it pays to know each when shopping. None of the early models had an automatic transmission that could withstand the torque of the diesel. Chevy was the first to improve with the Allison auto, Ford and then Dodge upgraded later. The first Duramax (Chevy) had some head cracking and injector problems, corrected in 2005 or 6 if memory serves me right. The late model Fords 6.7 have a serious problem with an engine oil cooler that can require a complete engine replacement as a result. There will be strong opinions voiced, both pro and con. I am very happy with my Dodge Cummins and expect it to exceed 300,000 miles on the clock. The auto transmission has required an upgrade (pull a trailer that can exceed 20,000 lbs) but since I do my own repairs this has not been that expensive. Short trips and daily commuting can be a mileage stabber and cold weather starting and warm up will add time to your trips. Fuel at 60 cents more per gallon can bring your travel costs up to exceed a gas powered vehicle. Repairs are much more expensive than gas engines but durability, power and longevity are a real plus. As with any vehicle, a knowledge of the required maintenance requirements and the desire to follow them, on the required intervals, will eliminate many of the problems that some experience. Good luck,

Check out the link below. This stuff is for wood deck restorations and is durable, waterproof, and cleans up nicely. The cost is not a wallet breaker either. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Restore-Deck-Liquid-Armor-Resurfacer-4-Gal-Water-Based-Charleston-Exterior-Coating-49510/202679783#

Earl, Carol and I send our prayers and best wishes to you and your wife.

I have an ASUS laptop that is in good condition. Put a new motherboard in it about a year ago, haven't used it much since. If you are interested I will PM you some pictures and specs.

PM sent

I "borrowed" the picture from ebay. The fender pictured is listed at $99.00, a little more than I want to pay.

Would anyone have the light for a Gen I MKII front fender, that they might be willing to part with?

Welcome to the three wheeled world!! The link below is to an album showing the mounting for the Motorvation rig attached to my 86. I would not give up the sidecar, now that I have tried one. Good luck and watch those right-hand turns. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/album.php?albumid=1100

The relay is located within the turn signal flasher housing, on the Gen I bikes. This MAY be true for the Gen II bikes??

Jeff, Thanks for the information. I wondered what was the function of the speedometer sensor. If it is a simple pulse generator it may not be too dificult to duplicate. The clutch switch and gear selector might also be used to latch in the timer. Neutral light not present and the clutch switch not made?? Thanks again

You are correct when assuming that a NAS connected your system can become infected. The NAS can be disconnected when not in use and then reconnected when the next backup is scheduled. Your backup software would backup only the changes that were made since the last backup. A nifty little gadget is a docking station that will attach two 2 1/2 inch HD's through a USB port. They (the HD's) can be inserted or removed at will. You could have any number of HD's on the shelf that contain clones, backups, data storage, etc. Insert what you want and off you go. As long as they are on the shelf they are safe from malware. I use a hot swapable HD that can hold a complete image of my system. Open the door and remove the drive. Stick in another one that may contain different programs, data files, picture folders, large game files, etc. If you use an SSD they are extremely fast.

Within the relay flasher assembly, there are three devices: 1. Flasher relay 2. Canceling unit 3. Starter circuit cut-off relay I am curious as to the function of the starter cut-off relay and the cancelling unit? Is the canceling unit just a timer that cancels the function of the flasher after a preset? Is the starting cut-off relay an accumulation of the safety switches combined into one relay across the starting circuit? The Cooper/Bussmann fuse block that is being install in my 86 has the option of powering ten relays and using forty fuses, in a very small space. Turn signal, SP/ST, SP/DT, timers, and a host of other configurations are available. I think you are now seeing what I may have in mind. All the devices, currently hidden under the fairing, could be relocated into one compact package, using modern solid state components. As Jeff would say "while you're in there", why not go for broke!!

Ditto, to what Snaggletooth has to say about Dano's rotor modification. The reason I have a spare is that I installed the modified rotor as preventative maintenance. The one that I removed was OK. After seeing the difference between the stock and Dano's, the improvement is obvious.

The intermediate gear may have been defective and there are no further ailments :fingers crossed:but I believe that it would be worthwhile to pull the rotor before going any further. Check the sprages, springs for wear or breakage and the rotor for cracks. Check the 72 tooth gear bushing, the hub and teeth for wear or damage. If the overrunning clutch and gear are OK, it would be safe to replace the damaged gear, (IMHO) but there might still be a problem, that could produce the same results. A misfire in the motor, to produce a kickback against the starter, could break the gear. A problem with the starter that produces an intermittent engagement might cause such a failure. If the rotor or 72 tooth gear is damaged, I have a good set that is available.

Not to scare you away from a 1st Gen but there a few recurring problems that are common to a lot of these bikes. It can be a rewarding experience to put one on the road in reliable condition. They were one of the first generation of pure touring bikes produced. They are definitely a classic in many ways and I really enjoy mine. Here are a few more items to be aware of when looking for a 1st Gen: Second gear in the 83 and 84 models. The charging systems, stators and regulator rectifiers, and connecting plugs. Starter, two pole to four pole conversions, clutch sprage failures. Fuse box failures, upgrades available. Carburetor diaphragms, holes and cracking. Weak front fork springs, upgrades available. TCI failures, upgrades available The engines are solid as are the drive-line components. There are a lot of new and used parts available and the help on this site covers all of the common problems and usually solves the unique. Welcome to the forum, stick around and enjoy.

Dave, There is a very nice KOA within a mile of my house. Several state and county parks and several other private campgrounds. There are also three acres of woods and another in yards, behind my house. There is a very bike friendly tavern between me and the KOA. Lots of great riding roads and sights to see. Now all I have to do is get this @%## bike back together.

Dave, Sounds like a great idea and some good times ahead. Count me in for next spring and if there is anything I can help with, please ask.

I am sure that I have a couple of them. Make me whatyou consider a fair offer and we'll see what happens. The prices that I reference on ebay are all over the map. This unit was working before I pulled the plug to the compressor two years ago. now what to do with the hole??

I would like to remove the CLASS system from my 86. The compressor and all the hardware, except the controller (don't know what to do with the empty space). I have the front Progressive springs and a rear Progressive shock, so no air is needed. What to do with the opening for the front forks? Do I just plug the fitting on each air ring or is there a need for a vent? I will need to dump the fork oil when the anti-dive units are removed and the block off plates installed. What is the recommended oil to use as a replacement? Currently using Mobile One 10W30 and have been told that it is not the best because it is hydroscopic. I would want to use one that will provide ample dampening, for use with the sidecar. This all goes along with the rewiring project, now in progress. Anything that is not used or needed is being removed, so out goes the wiring for the anti-dive and the CLASS. Thanks for the help,

The issue is that all compatible filters do not have the same OD. Some will rub on the frame cross brace or will not fit at all due to the interference.