bcradio

One more thing: if there are "sparks" coming from the carburetors, run away! The carbs should be at ground potential, or close to it. They aren't really bolted to the block because of the rubber boots but there are enough cables to keep them close to ground. If the carbs have been literally "sparking" then ground them while you're working on them! Spark + gasoline = fire. The ONLY spark on your bike is supposed to be contained in the cylinders. KB

Good call randya! I don't know what exactly is in the TCI but the sidestand status line goes right in there - since it's a safety input, no reason it couldnt cause problems. On the schematic the line going to the TCI r/w wire comes right off the ignition switch on what is the ignition "on" voltage source, through a 15 AMP fuse and the engine stop switch (handlebar). I would do this: Let's ALWAYS remember safety and how much we all don't want to burn our house down. Using a 15 amp fuse inline with a piece of wire (we'll call it "test"), tap the r/w wire on the TCI (maybe the connector) and then turn on the ignition and connect the other end of the "test" wire to the battery positive and try to start the machine. If this works the key switch is bad. If it doesn't work then the problem is going to be in the TCI/coil circuit. Under these conditions, if the wire doesn't work it will be nice to know the voltage at the r/w wire during start. If this doesn't work, then I would begin unplugging one coil at a time until I was sure one wasn't shorted. If you want to measure the primary resistance on the coils, it is listed as being 2.7 Ohms. The secondary coil resistance is listed at 13.2 KOhms. Oh and GROUNDS are critical: the testing meter should be connected DIRECTLY to the ground side of the battery. Measure the resistance between the ground of the battery and the frame as well; a problem here can cause all kinds of otherwise unexplainable problems. I had to re-do all the frame grounds on my '84. This is all assuming a TCI problem, be sure to check for spark. Please repost your progress. KB

Drops are caused by two things provided the battery is good: high resistance on the wire route, and high current draw on that line (accordingly). Give me a minute and let me look at my schematic. I get right back. KB

Thank you for sharing your intimacy with the speedo; when I had to disassemble mine I was terrified that I'd kill something important. In the end it went well, though your modified version is better. One thing, I don't think that the Liquid Wrench will be a good permanent lubricant because it is a penetrant and the carrier will eventually evaporate. Almost any grease will do in small quantities. We would have difficulty finding parts for the speedometer, I'd take very delicate care of it. First time it began squealing was the last time my neighbor's wife asked to go riding...aww too bad!

I've had a VOZ (Nu-Ear) for a few months. I do have speakers in my 3/4 helmets; there isn't a problem with the exception of the helmet sometimes tends to pull on the device. Make SURE you keep the devices insured! The first time I thought I had lost it the idea of paying a few THOUSAND dollars to replace it was at least uneasy. You can usually buy extended coverage from the hearing aid provider and maybe your homeowner's insurance.

I understand that most of the computing public is concerned when given this kind of information, but NEVER run an online test for such. If you are having problems with your computer then most likely it's malware of some sort. Nowadays spyware and the like is more of a threat than the viruses! Having registry "errors" usually means that there are links or information that is in the registry that has no use; you can clean it out but the benefits are insignificant. The most significant contributor to your computer slowing down is unnecessary software running when Windows starts. The most simple tool to control this is called "startup.cpl" from Mike Lin. There is a Windows tool (msconfig) used for this but startup is much easier. You don't need the printer monitoring program running, or the java update scheduler, or numerous other software updater services that share your internet connection and computer resources. Just uncheck the box. If you later see that you need the process running then check the box and right-click to start the app. This is a very powerful app; you will like it better than some vague registry magician that you have to pay for. Keep your money. Google Startup.cpl - it's free.

The Venture has a "Reserve lighting unit" that is supposed to monitor the headlight and give an indication if it fails. (Personally I can tell when the light goes off; it gets dark in front of the motorcycle...) I removed mine because it caused the headlight to be dim. To disconnect the unit, here ya go. Look at the connector in the wiring harness and find the blue/black and blue/yellow wires. Strip a small section of insulation from those two wires and twist them together and solder. Or, if you are serious about this, just cut the wires right off the connector and splice the blue/black to the blue/yellow. Now you have headlights again. On my venture, the removal resulted in the hi beam indicator not operating. No problem, and the remedy is easy: The indicator for the high beam has two wires coming from it, a r/y and y. (red/yellow and yellow) the r/y goes to a 9 pin plug. The yellow goes to the connector where the RSU was. The easiest fix is: before cutting the rest of the wires from the connector (other than the ones you are going to short together to bypass the RSU), connect the yellow/green to the yellow ( I built a jumper from the old wires). Then remove the r/y wire on the lamp side of the 9 pin connector, and connect it to the black wire in the middle of the 9 pin connector. (Ground). Originally, the yellow wire was pulled low by the RSU to indicate high beam.