bongobobny

Tell me about the caliper covers you have...

I doubt it, lots of us use Rotella T...

Hope they don't blow chunks of rubber like the 880's did...

What vzuden said is only correct if you or someone else added brake fluid. If none was added then you still have the original volume of fluid and the level will just return to it's original level. Because the bike is new to you, you have no way of knowing so what he said is very valid. While we are on the subject, though, are you aware that all hydraulic fluids (clutch and brake) should be flushed and replaced at regular intervals?? My personal interval is every 4 years but others may say every other year. Brake fluid can and will develop moisture in it reducing it's effectiveness, and cause all sorts of other problems as it really ages. I have seen really old fluid actually crystalize and plug up calipers and master cylinders. You can't tell the condition of your hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder because for all intents and purposes the volume in the reservoir never moves past the master cylinder, it can look clear and clean while the "working" fluid in the lines and caliper could be, and most likely is, a nasty black color. Yes, the same DOES apply to automotive brakes but very few people are aware of this. Let's face it, the average Cage driver only knows how to put the key in it and put gas into it, everything else is a total mystery...

He is referring to the issue with the rear shock mounting bracket on just the '83. It was redesigned for the model year '84 on up. The original was a weak design and would rust from the inside out and would break loose resulting in the rear shock suddenly becoming inoperative/detached at the top.

She got a new car... Heather, Heather, Heather...

Yup! Remove saddlebag, then the plastic dust cover on the caliper followed by the little clips on the pins and the pins themselves. I like to unbolt the caliper then spray with brake parts cleaner, and use an old toothbrush to get the crud off of the pistons! After cleaning, you will need to "force" the pistons back in as far as they will go, I usually use a small pry bar before I remove the old pads. You may notice one pad will be worn more than the other side, this is kind of normal, many of us routinely reverse the pads at say 5000 miles to promote even wear...

Hey, you'll have a looooong way to catch up with my '84, it has practically everything brand new!! I spent around $6000 having an engine (1300) rebuilt by PCW racing. Every bearing and bushing replaced, SS lines, new air hoses etc etc. Probably now have around 10K invested, never get my money back but so what...

Uhhhh, somewhere! If I can't find it I'll call... Need a couple of hours to locate it, etc.

Nope, different animal, sorry...

Had my Android (Samsung Galaxy) phone recently lock up but pulling the battery fixed it...

Ehhhh, just change the stator and get on with life!! I have an almost brand new stock one for you for the cost of the flat rate shipping from here to you... Probably have a spare gasket as well!

Stan, I may have a spare gold fairing in fair shape, better than what you now have, I'll check if you're interested. Glad you're OK, I know all about smacking a deer, Becky and I hit one with the RSV coming back from MD, we had the bike for 3 days and just put on it's first 500 miles! Did around $6000 damage but somehow I kept the bike upright but it did take about a 1/2 mile to finally stop...

Hmmm, if you put 3.5 quarts in you should have been OK. As far as the site glass goes, until you get the oil filter full of oil the site glass will look overfilled. When doing a final check you need to run the motor for a minute or two to get oil into the filter, while looking underneath for possible leaks, then shut it down and wait a couple of hours before checking the level, to allow the oil to slowly return from the top of the engine to the pan. You may have put the spring and washer on the oil filter in wrong, or maybe the new o ring gasket got pinched, etc etc etc... Uhhhh, you did drain the old oil first??

Uhhhh, surviving?? Hopefully will put the PCW Racing engine in the '84 finally...

Hehehehehehe! No Silly, I somehow managed to lock up the keyboard with "Sticky" keys! Not sure how I did it, but the keyboard started acting funny and the computer asked me if I really meant to turn on sticky keys...

Heck, I did the same thing the other day without either cat's help...

You DO like to stir the pot, don't you?!!?:stirthepot:

Also be sure to drop liberal amounts of solder balls over the connector to make them more stable for vibrations...

Most of us use "Progressive" brand progressive springs...

Yup! First suspect would be the battery itself! Remove it and take it to your local auto parts store and get it load tested. Yes, follow the procedure for testing the charging system. With voltmeter you should see a little less than 13 volts across the battery with the bike idling, and when it rev's up you should see it increase to around 13.5 volts plus or minus...

Jay, use liberal amounts of spray contact cleaner and rapidly connect/disconnect the connectors a few times before the cleaner dries, and repeat. This action sort of does the same thing sanding (not a good idea) does or wiping does. OK to use dielectric grease on the plastic connector to waterproof, but do NOT get the grease ON the metal connector parts, as previously stated it is an INSULATOR, not a conductor

Yup! Works good now! Great job! Excellent music selection, sort of goes along with the area!

Keeps telling me "your video will be ready soon.."

Kind of hard to be a success in life WITHOUT taking some sort of risk!! It's hard work and a lot of hours but if you are determined you can make it...