RSTDdog

Glad you got it running again. Instant battery failure is typically one of the internal bridges connecting the cells or the internal bridge to the post failing. Remember a fuse only protects loads downstream of the fuse. Your battery is upstream of all loads, so a battery failure typically won't blow a fuse. This is why when sourcing power directly at the battery for any accessory you have to put the fuse as close to the battery as possible. I am personally a fan of the Yuasa Branded sealed Maintenance Free batteries. These are the ones that come dry charged in the box with the plastic thing full of acid that fills the individual cells. Then has the strip cap that seals it it. These batteries need to be properly filled and charged before use for best service. Short version is Fill, let sit for an hour after filling, then install the cap, then slow charge 1 amp, 20 hours (Its 20 amp hour battery), then install. My personal preference is too wait unitl the battery has cooled back to ambient temperature before starting the charge time. (they get warm when the acid and dry charge react). Your bike will not fully charge a new battery. My OE sealed Yuasa in my RSTD was over 6 years old when I took it out. Was still starting the bike but occasionally got a slow start. Used it few more years to run a 12 volt bait air pump.

Looking up 1973 Nissan B110 on Rock Auto (They put all the Datsun years under Nissan) here (screenshot) are all the part numbers of U-joints they carry. Rock Auto does not carry the TRW part number. As a rule if Rock Auto doesn't carry it, its likely not being made by that supplier anymore. TRW may be gone as a brand by now?? not sure. If you hit the info button, more specs available for each part. Link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1973,b110,1.2l+l4,1428,drivetrain,universal+joint,2392 Edit: Apparently did not like me copy and pasting the screenshot into the body of the thread, looked ok in preview though.......

Does switching to reserve solve the issue? you say it happens 20Km (12 miles) before switching to reserve. In my experience there are alot of factors that determine the total number of km or miles you get from full until you hit reserve. In my experience on tbe Tour Deluxe +/- 12 miles of total miles from full to reserve is normal.On Edit your latest posts came while typing this one.

If you are talking about the Royal Star Venture or Tour Deluxe, the 18" front wheel from the Stratoliner is a Direct fit. Stratoliner S is polished. Search will yield pics. There are some pics in my albums too. That is easiest option. May be some aftermarket options too. Rear wheel is so hidden not worth the effort.

Congratulations on the New Arrival!!

The choke on these bikes is more correctly defined as a fuel enrichener circuit. Each carb has a brass plunger assembly in it. The linkage pulls out on the brass plungers to open them to allow extra fuel for a cold start. There is a rubber seat on the end of each plunger that covers the orifice in the carb body. The linkage ties all four plungers together to open at the same time. Either one or more plungers is stuck, or something in the linkage is not right. That said, After I went through the carburetors on my RSTD, check all the float settings, replaced the orings on the seats for the needle valves and pulled the caps from the mixture screws and adjusted the mixture, I could start the bike with no choke in Florida, with the exception of really cold days. There are a lot of good posts and discussions on servicing the carburetors on these bikes when you get to it.

Something to consider/remember with removable thumb drives (removable USB hard drives) is how it it is formatted (the base file system). Thumb drives should be formatted using EXFAT files system before copying anything to them. EXFAT is universally compatible with windows and mac. They should be formatted as EXFAT by default but not always. If you have a thumb drive, removable USB hard drive that a Mac won't recognize (someone posted earlier their Imac had error could not read it), the thumb drive is likely formatted with FAT or FAT32 file system which is recognized by Windows PC only. Possible that for those folks that get device not detected for their USB, may need to reformat the thumb drive to EXFAT, then download the yamaha files again. Remember formatting deletes everything off the drive.

My 2006 Royal Star Tour Deluxe had a little heat you could feel off the rear cylinders sitting still, mostly the left rear. Not uncomfortable but you knew it was there. No issues with heat rolling down the road or on the feet that I recall. I always wore jeans and over the ankle boots. If you are wearing shorts and tennis shoes, will probably be a little warm. The 2007 models had a service bulletin or service campaign for cylinder head bolt torque or something like that. Any yamaha dealer can check the vin to see if your bike is affected and whetehr it has been corrected. Could use more info, miles, service history to help you better. If it has been sitting and carbs are dirty could be running lean which will make it run hotter. Cooling system condition? Fan working? If the bike is new to you and you don't have any service history, have it checked by a competent mechanic familiar with these bikes. Running hot is not a commonly reported problem.

Carb sync can cause weird noises. Glad that helped. I would recommend getting new hoses and also the rubber caps for the sync ports so you don't get air leaks there. Buy the Yamaha parts. More money, but in my experience hold up better than rubber caps from auto store. Choke presumably stuck in (off) and not out out (on) correct? You will have to pull the tank and inspect carefully the linkages and see if there is anything hanging up.

How long did the prior owner have it?? Did valve adjustment get done at 26000? Rattle is probably not valves or valve adjustment if you can't get it to quiet down loading the clutch. Rattle may be carb sync issue if they are out alot.

Sent off to SpencerPJ.

Found it. Hands on it. PM me your address and will ship out to you.

It is in the shed at the house and that is not where I am currently. It will be tomorrow before I can go look for it, assuming you can wait that long.......

I may still have a new Stebel Nautilus horn in my bag of tricks somewhere. I put one in the horn spot you could see on the right side of the RSTD using the Carbon one polished bracket and relay harness and never put the second one inside the fairing lower on the left side. Let me put my hands on it, and when I do you are welcome to it. Just taking up space.

What is the load index rating and weight capacity on these tires?

I thought the mod djh3 makes takes all the headlight load off the ignition switch and puts it through a relay? Should not leave much draw through the switch itself other than the fan. I know a mechanic did the wiring for you. Have you checked that the battery cables and grounds are all clean and tight? Ground at the battery and where it bolts to the frame? 4 mile ride to work probably doesn't get the bike hot enough to turn the fan on. You need to find someone with a DC amp clamp. seems like something is still pulling a load through that switch.

So I was using this on my computer chair at home to be sure it was OK and realized it has developed a slow leak. Leaks down in about an hour or so. If someone would like to figure it out and fix or needs the cover I will ship it to you free.

USS Alabama and the Submarine next to it are both very good. If you have a day to yourself or with someone else interested, I highly recommend the Naval Aviation Museum at Pensacola NAS. Maybe 40 minutes from Orange Beach, run east down the coast road toward Perdido Key, Over the bridge, Gulf Beach Highway to the back entrance of Pensacola NAS. You will need a good day to go through it. Last time I was there they had just finished putting the PBY inside that flew McArthur to sign the armistice with Japan. They have an Imax theatre in it. Must watch short movies there are Fly with The Blues and the HD Imax on the spacewalk and repair of the Hubbel telescope will blow your mind. If you can leave a few days early you can catch the Blue Angels practice right along the tarmac at Pensacola NAS (behind the museum) on 9-25-18 This is as close as you will ever get, plus landings and afterburner take-offs you don't get to see at the public airshows. Practice schedule:https://www.visitpensacola.com/events/signature-events/blue-angel-air-show/practices/ Have fun

So the last two tests you did was the cover on or off? With the key off and sitting in the garage was the cover on or off? I don't own an rstd any more, but what is right below the switch, I don't remember? Is the top of the tank there or something else? Is whatever is directly below the ignition switch hot too? If it was cool when you parked it and got hot after sitting for 45 minutes after riding, my guess is heat soak. Heat rises, so the heat from the exhaust pipes and front head are rising up and around the tank. when you are riding and air is moving, it keeps the switch cool. Pushing it outside, any breeze, even warm breeze will dissipate heat better than no air moving in garage. Try this; make a heat deflector out of some HD aluminum foil, not for when you ride it, but when you park it. Go for your test ride, do what you normally do then when you park it put the heat deflector under the ignition switch somewhere the idea being divert the heat from the engine and exhaust. If the switch doesn't get hot or as hot, the switch is getting heat soak from the engine after shut off.

The Royal Star Venture', Royal Star tour deluxe are all shaft drive just like the Original Venture. When i worked in a Multiline Japanese dealership in the early 1990's (Honda Yamaha Suzuki) all the mechanics there grease drive splines and drive pins at tire changes (Goldwings, Ventures, Cavalcades, XS1100, Honda CB bike with shaft drive, etc) and I was taught to do that. Shaft Drive is a not a new thing and All moving mechanical parts subject to metal-metal contact and friction typically need some type of grease, so I would say yes it's good mechanical practice even if not spelled out in a service manual. I haven't reviewed a Royal Star Service manual in a while, and have never reviewed a first gen manual. I have however reviewed my share of Yamaha service manuals for a variety of their products including waverunners. Yamaha assumes a certain amount of mechanical knowledge when writing their Factory Service Manuals. You also have to hunt for information or pick it out. The manual typically has a blow out diagram on the first page of the section you are working on, say Final drive unit. That blow out diagram typically has little pictograms (Icons we call them now) in it with arrows pointing to things that need loctite, grease, etc. They will have a picture of grease gun with an M in the middle for Moly based grease, LB in the middle for Lithium Based Grease, A bottle shape with a 242 for Loctite 242, etc. Sometimes this info makes it into the step by step instructions, sometimes the only place you see what to grease is in the blow out diagram and nowhere else. Somewhere in the front of the manual in the general section is an index with all the different pictograms and a corresponding Yamaha part number and description of the grease, loctite, sealant , etc. so you have to flip back there to see exactly what to use, at least by part number. All the mechanics I worked with back then had all been through the factory training, some of it hands on factory training classes, we also had whole series of video training tapes. May have been part of the factory training or even training from MMI (Motorcycle Mechanics Institute). As pointed out earlier in the thread, also inspect the seal. Any good quality grease should stay in there for a normal tire interval.

Now is a also good time to clean and regrease the drive splines and the drive pins where the hub goes into the wheel. Also pull final drive and check and grease splines on drive shaft.

I would want to know more about why the engine was replaced. That is a rare occurrence on these. 1993 is the last year for the First Gen Venture. Was mostly sorted out. The 93 was good blue color as I recall. Darker than the earlier blue ones.

Pinwall cycle should have those parts used. Look up the parts new at a online yamaha parts dealer and then compare if used is worth a shot. Pinwall typically has the miles that were on the bike when it was salvaged. Also check the harness where the ignition switch plugs in. Could be high resistance on that plug, but if all the heat is in the switch, its likely high resistance in the switch contacts more than likely. CRC makes a contact cleaner safe for plastics. You could try that with some air and see if flushing the WD 40 out helps. check all the wiring and connectiosn between the ignition switch, high low and the head light. Edit: After reading your other post it seems you have some bad/problematic wiring from the prior owner that may also be causing you issues. Does this bike have Passing lamps, aka Driving lights, also? depending on what those are and how they are wired, could be causing too much load on the headlight circuit. More and better pictures may help get it sorted out.

Can't help with the single carb set up. From a reality standpoint, all the mods and effort still doesn't get you to the stock HP of an RSV or 05 up RSTD. If more power is the goal, the easiest solution would be to swap in an engine from a 99 up RSV or 05 up RSTD. You get more horsepower and the balance shafts right out of the box. You could massage the heads and intake on that that motor to get a bit more out of it before the install. One reason you can't Vmax HP out of the RSV/05RSTD engine is the air flow limitation on the inlet side of carbs. There is a thread somewhere with a link to where a guy made a custom fuel tank and essentially had the part of the fuel tank that covers the carbs hollowed out and had velocity stacks up through the center of the tank. That may be a work around also for your single carb idea. Pinwall Cycle parts has used engine assemblies, carbs, just about everything. Here is the link to the Royal star with Vmax motor and velocity stacks https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/batman-one-maxed-out-yamaha-royal-star-motorcycle#page-3

Until the OP responds as to which pinch bolts were loose, mostly speculation. Very likely due to the assembly process at the dealer. The sad reality about motorcycle shops, and it's the way it was when I worked in one 30 odd years ago, the assembly of motorcycles is done by entry level people, not experienced technicians. I worked for a multi-line Japanese dealer, all manufacturers have detailed assembly instructions beginning with how to un-crate it, where all the parts are located in the crate or on the bike, step by step, bolt by bolt, torque specs, all of it. So No, It would not be easy to miss something unless you are not using the manufacturers assembly guide and checklist and just winging it. All too often, depending on the dealer, the bikes are un-crated and assembled by warehousing personnel who may or may not even have the Assembly manual and prep checklist in the warehouse. There is also the "been doing this for years, don't need the assembly manual" types out there building bikes also. Nearly $30K for that bike, assembly by the cheapest, lowest bidder, and depending on what was left loose, potentially catastrophic outcome. What if he had been one of those riders who picks it up on Friday, decides he is putting his 600 miles on over the weekend and bring it back Monday for the 600 mile service?? I have had those type customers in our shop. New motorcycles can't leave with loose bolts, that is unacceptable in my book. OP is very lucky it was caught. Off Soap Box. He should have a copy of the PDI checklist signed off by his dealer and the assembly tech. The PDI checklist should have all the assembly items on it as well as oil, fuel, tire pressure, etc. I would request a technician with a copy of the Venture TC assembly manual in Hand go over the entire bike front to back.