MiCarl

It's called "back bleeding" and they make a tool to do it. It's very difficult and VERY messy. They made us do it in school to discourage us from ever doing it in real life. If you're inclined to try (DON'T!) do not pull the lever. Marcarl is correct that that will prevent fluid from moving back to the reservoir. If you leave the lever released the tiny return hole in the bottom of the reservoir will be open. The air will come out that hole and eventually fluid. When there is a geyser that covers your bike in brake fluid the system is bled. Make sure to thoroughly wash the motorcycle immediately or your paint and plastic will be ruined. In school we had lab partners. One of the team would push fluid into the system. The other would hold a rag and try (unsuccessfully) to catch the geyser of brake fluid. Then both would wash the motorcycle.

My understanding is the FAA won't allow ethanol in aviation fuel. Gee, I wonder why. I believe av-gas would eventually tarnish, but we're talking about a long time.

If it's full I'd leave it in. A full tank will help prevent condensation which will make it rust.

I don't bother draining. Make sure you ride it a mile or 2 so the stabilized fuel gets into the carbs.

Yamaha doesn't specify AC voltages at the stator. Off hand though, those sound good. Perhaps someone will chime in that knows what they typically do. It's very difficult to get precise readings in that 0.5 - 1.0 ohm range with consumer equipment. I wouldn't let a reading of 0.7 concern me in the least, especially since you get the same on all three pair. I think you're probably going to end up needing to look into electrical connections and the regulator/rectifier.

If mine were reading 0.7 on all three legs and no shorts to ground I'd do more testing before replacing. Have you checked AC voltage across all three pair?

CB will give you more range and the potential to contact other vehicles and law enforcement. The bluetooth is only useful at short range with someone that also has bluetooth equpment.

Clutch bleeding is pretty simple to do in practice, but difficult to describe in text. First off - the master cylinder will be more level with the bars turned to the right. Second - you need to get the master cylinder primed. What you're doing now is sucking air back and forth from the banjo bolt. It's easier to do with a helper. Loosen the banjo bolt a bit and hold a wad of paper towels around it. Have your helper squeeze the clutch lever and hold while you tighten the bolt then release the lever. Repeat several time until the fluid oozes around the bolt without spurts or bubbles. Be very careful not to get brake fluid on the paint or plastic, wash any that brake fluid that spills promptly with soapy water. Then you need to bleed the rest of the system. It's easier with a vacuum bleeder but I'm going to assume you're doing it manually. Put a clean piece of hose on the bleed screw with the free end submerged in brake fluid in an open container. Have helper squeeze lever and hold, you open screw and the hose will bubble. Close the screw and have helper release lever. Repeat until there are no more bubbles. The slave cylinder is behind the middle gear cover and held on with three socked head cap screws. In addition to the new slave cylinder you'll need a new gasket for the middle gear cover. When you take the cover off you'll lose about 1/2 cup of oil. You can get the slave cylinder and gasket from any Yamaha dealer or on line parts store. I think your cost for a slave and gasket from an on line parts store will be about $100.

You don't mention whether your keyboards are USB (wired and wireless). Is your printer USB? If all of those things use USB you might have a problem with the USB hardware.

Not sure if this was about the incoherent first sentence in my post. I've edited to try and make it more understandable.

My HF lift quit rising when it was 3 weeks old. I was told that without the extended warranty I'd have to pay round trip shipping to have it repaired. I finally talked the store manager into a swap. But then I was not looking forward to loading it for the trip back. It occurred to me that there probably was just a check valve stuck so I kicked the **** out of the lift lever and it started working. Been fine for almost 8 years now. HF is getting really bad about the extended warranty. This past fall I purchased their electric 5 ton log splitter (which is awesome!) and turned down the warranty 3 times from the cashier before another chimed in with what junk it was and can't get parts etc. etc. etc. I had to get down right nasty to get them to let me just pay and go.

........to be downwind of @Flyinfool and his infernal machine. Here is the collateral damage from his current attack on @cowpuc.

All straight cut gear sets are inherently noisy and most Japanese motorcycles use straight cut gears in the primary drive (connection between the engine and transmission). How the various tolerances stack up will make a difference in how noisy they are, that's why switching clutch baskets (the driven gear is part of the clutch basket) can make a difference in the sound. The oil coating the teeth can quiet them thus the suggestion a different oil might make a difference. Sounds like it didn't bother you until you read about it. Your best course is probably to forget what you read and move on to other things.

...Or you could do like cowpuc and just pretend you've got a turbocharger.

I wonder.... chaq67 - you've been a member for over 2 years. Have you had that bike the whole time? Is the sound new recently? Did you just change the oil? Perhaps the different oil makes the sound more pronounced. One of my neighbors at the shop has a 2nd gen and he says the gear whine is driving him nuts and one day he rode it to the shop. I told him that I didn't hear him coming which is unusual because I can generally hear Yamaha primary gears a block away. His really is not as bad as many. If you're hearing the same sound as in cowpuc's video there is no cause for concern, it's normal and typical. Your bike is not self-destructing. If it's annoying you turn up the radio or try a different oil.

The extra water depth (head) could potentially overwhelm the seals on your pump. To do what you want you'd need a couple relays, a float and switch and wire it all into the pump. It'd probably be easier and cheaper to just modify the float linkage so it has longer travel. If that's not an option I have another idea. A switch above the basin attached to a rod and a float that slides on the rod. Put a stop where the float pushes up on the rod (activating the switch) when the level is up and another stop at the bottom where the weight of the float pulls the rod back down. Wire your pump through that switch. Your pump will only start with both floats up and will stop when either of them drops.

The headers on the outgoing emails (the ones you are getting bounced back) will have a trace of IP addresses. Your IT guy should be able to figure out where they are originating and look into having the offending account terminated.

That center nut tightens the top bridge against the nuts on the steering stem. It shouldn't "float".

Because they also hold the top bridge in place, if they're tight it won't go anywhere. Likewise, they're the last thing to tighten when you put it back together.

If it's in the carburetors or the fuel rails between them he is looking at a lot of labor. We'd bill 6 hours + parts to remove the carburetors and go through them. From a money standpoint he'd probably be better off selling as it is.

We used to have Dish (long, long ago). I was one of their first customers and the deal was I bought the equipment, installed it myself and they gave me the first year of programming for free. It rarely went out and when it did you knew that there was really heavy weather (storms or big snow). The outages were always brief. Back in those days there was one satellite and I had my dish very precisely aimed. I believe now there are multiple birds and the dish is shaped to receive signals from all of them. I'm not sure if you can get the precise aim I had with the new set up. We ditched Dish when the cable company offered a very sweet deal to give them my old Dish equipment. When the youngest left for college I dropped the cable and went back to the antenna. Now I save a fortune and can find out there is nothing good on in a few minutes rather than going through hundreds of channels to find out there is nothing to watch. A sports fan might feel differently though.....

It sounds like you've definitely identified a leak at the bead. It's not likely you'll get much accomplished without dismounting the tire. I'm not a big fan of sealants - they create a problem installing the next tire. Here at the little shop by the park we dismount them and then clean up the wheel really well. That usually solves the problem. Also, clean the bead on the tire and check for any damage on the install.

They shouldn't be failing that quickly. If they've been installed properly with new bushings, dust seals and oil they shouldn't be failing that quickly unless something is wrong with the tube. I flat out refuse to install All Balls seals. They take so much force to get in I worry about damaging something. The last set I tried I had to use a press on the dust seals then they'd climb back out.

There is a trade off between the stable, comfortable straight line and being nimble in the twisties. The suspension geometry on your 2nd. gen, combined with the forward foot position are great for comfort but both slow you down in the tight turns. Take a look at bikes that are made for handling rather than comfort (sport bikes). They have very little trail in the front suspension and the riders feet are high and below his hips.

Don, I'm one of the few shops around here that will touch a bike that old. Here are the things I routinely see: Fork tubes pitted or scratched? Knock 50% off the book value. Tires worn out or more than 5 years old? Knock off another 30%. Now the bike is worth 20% of its book value. Doesn't take too many little surprises to make the bike a loser, even if he gets it for free. Rust in the tank? Another 50% off. Another common thing is brake hydraulics all full of sludge. That can get expensive. It's not unusual for someone to show with a bike that age he's just bought and face a $1000+ repair bill to make it safe and reliable. They'd have been much better off to spend a few extra bucks and get one that some other sucker fixed up. If it's a routine rider that's in decent shape, has been maintained and only needs fork seals (seals, dust seals, bushings, oil) it's probably an $800 motorcycle.