MiCarl

Welcome! I think you probably have a base Venture. While most of the Royale features are visible in the panels that are removed I do not see an amplifier to the left of the air box which a Royale should have, nor the mass of wires that go to it. If you've got a hefty bronze colored steel box in your parts pile I might be wrong. I'm not aware of an assembly tutorial, and most times I do mine I have to back track because I forgot something. Here's my best recollection of a sequence that will work.: 1) Right and left fairing halves (the pieces that the turn signals mount into. 2) Fairing lower legs. 3) Chrome bezels beside radiator. 4) Cowl uppers (they are black and have vents in them. 5) Mirrors. 6) Headlight bezel. 8) Windshield. 9) Chrome trim at base of windshield 10) Chin piece that connects the two fairing halves above the fender (this can actually be done anytime after #1 ) 11) Scoop ahead of oil filter if your motorcycle has one. The 84 might not.

On your Honda the stator and regulator/rectifier were near each other and plugged together under the seat. On your RSTD the stator plugs to the wire harness under the seat (below the battery) and the harness plugs into the regulator/rectifier which is under the radiator.

Don't kick yourself too hard. I average 3-6 a day for years. I mark the wheels with a sharpie before I take the old tire off and triple check the new one. Had one come back this morning that was on backwards.

The 4 way does have its own fuse. I had it blow on my '89 and killed them. Don't remember exactly where it is, I think it's in line rather than on the panel above the battery. Pretty sure you get to it under the false tank near the steering neck though.

That's what it is, a soap opera. With graphic violence, dragons and boobies!

GOOGLE IS YOUR FRIEND

I was wrong too. Looks like he's her nephew.

Jon Snow is only her half brother and as such would dilute the blood line. On the other hand, all her full brothers are dead so he's probably as good as she could do.

The problem is the starter not having quite enough torque when good and hot. To my knowledge it's not mileage related. My 89 was like that when I got it with 80K miles. Deficiencies in the cables, connections or battery can make the problem worse. The starter is on the front of the engine, behind the exhaust and cooling system. When you park the motorcycle air quits moving over the starter and it soaks up heat from the engine/pipes/cooling system. If you aren't stopped long enough for the starter to cool back down (1/2 hour or so I think) it won't have enough torque to really crank the engine. If I recall correctly my major issue was fuel stops. I'd sometimes have to push the motorcycle away from the pump and wait 10 minutes or so until the starter would turn it over. Personally, If I had the cooling system open (the crossover pipe needs to come out to get at the starter) I'd do the upgrade. Higher output stator won't make any difference.

If 1 is cold it's not firing for some reason. Could be ignition or compression or carburetoration/fuel. Remember, the higher vacuum doesn't show you that cylinder is running, it just means there is more restriction to the air flow. Assuming the carburetors are working properly the lower vacuum in 3&4 means they are doing more than their share of the work. They'll drag 1&2 along with them.

Wasn't that tried with a bridge earlier this year?

It will, but it should make them all uniformly low - the engine will be running to slow for the amount of air the carbs let in so vacuum drops. I would expect an engine where everything was OK other than the sync to have one or more cylinders with really high vacuum, and some with low vacuum. A well running Venture engine will pull more than 10" Hg Vacuum. I believe the carbtune is calibrated in CM though. Well running and synced it should read 25 or higher on all cylinders. If none of them are reading 25 or above don't bother syncing until you resolve your other problem(s). In particular, if you have one or two reading 5 or less and the others reading 0 it really doesn't tell you anything about the sync.

He said it seemed to run fine. Now after sitting for about a month it won't idle. That's more than enough time for untreated fuel to crud up carburetors. By all means do the checks bongobobny suggested, but I think you're in for a carb cleaning. Do a compression check first to make sure it's not low compression causing the problem.

Careful! We haven't all watched the latest episode so don't spoil it. I bet Cersi would pay you plenty to slay some dragons. Not sure I'd bet on that horse though.

Your stator seems to check good. The rectifier also seems to check out. The way you checked the rectifier seems to indicate you connections are good too. What you cannot check (at least with common equipment) is the voltage regulator. It shares the box with the regulator, hence regulator/rectifier. Looks like you probably need a regulator/rectifier.

You're way out of sync. From your description it sounds as if both left side butterflies are completely closed. It takes some time and patience to correct them when they're that far out of whack.

If the tire were a radial its size would be marked as 140/90R16. By the way, the Shinko 230 is Aramid belted. Normally a belted tire would be labeled 140/90B16 but for some reason Shinko doesn't seem to indicate on the sidewall that it's a belted tire.

We've started to use the 777 as a substitute for the Bridgestone Exedra in those odd sizes the Vulcan uses and on some HD motorcycles. So far been getting good feedback, but too early to know how long they'll last. Lots of good info about load index and speed ratings HERE.

This is why I have trouble understanding why people want "Washington to do something". Best case pennies on the dollar make it to the cause. And we give up some freedom in the process.

There is a misconception that having a tube makes a structurally unsound tire safe. That is not the case. Without the tire holding it together the tube doesn't have even enough strength to maintain its air pressure. The tube would expand rapidly to where it had very low internal pressure, becoming essentially flat and be cut by the rim. That's assuming the tube doesn't get punctured by the road or cut up by the tire as it escapes.

I've used THIS ONE with good results. They say it actually works best if you don't remove any rust that isn't loose. I do remove the rust because for the $$ I charge I cannot have customers looking in their tank and seeing rust through the epoxy (it's clear). On a 1st gen venture you cannot look into the fuel tank anyhow so I sure wouldn't do that there. You want to make sure you don't have any harden on threads, in vents or making something too narrow (where the fuel tap screws on and the cap sticks into the fill neck). I like to coat anything I don't want it to stick to with grease then peel or cut it away after it starts to set up but is still rubbery. Any vent lines (I don't know if the MKI tank has any) I blow out frequently with compressed air while it cures.

I wouldn't even push it fast.

That must be the same small engine mechanic that told my father-in-law not to use the electric starter on his snow blower because it spins the engine too fast. The change in octane isn't what cleared up the problem, in fact it didn't completely clear up right away. You either had a fuel problem or shook something (crud) loose in the process of draining the 91 out. One thing on octane: I bought a new Stihl chainsaw a few years ago. They say specifically that the saw requires 87 octane fuel but to use 89 or higher if the fuel contains ethanol. Their explanation is that the 10% ethanol fuel burns hotter than pure gasoline and the higher octane compensates for that. Their engine can overheat with 87 ethanol fuel. I've gone to using 89 in all my little air cooled 2-stroke engines. Partly because it's easier to have one fuel mix and also to help those engines stay a bit cooler.

You also want to make sure the tool is seated firmly on the camshaft hex. If you're mis-aligned you'll break the tool. Also, watch the heel of the tool. It needs to come close to the surface the cam cover rests on but not actually contact it. If you turn it against the gasket surface you'll break that.

All the OEM parts for my shop come from them. I've placed 20 orders with them so far this year, most recent one was yesterday. Always been very happy.