MiCarl

Well, you didn't tell us which bike. Usually it's easier to remove the switch than to chase the wire out and disconnect it. Yamaha generally places a hole in the bottom of the perch (below and ahead of the switch) where you can push a punch in to release the tab and pop the switch out.

Are you talking about dust seals? Fork seals are down inside and you cannot put hand pressure on them. They should sit tighter than that anyhow. Then there is the issue of the bushings. They are damaged removing the seal and also need to be driven home. You can improvise a bushing/seal drive with a piece of PVC pipe or coupler from the plumbing section of the home store. It should be smaller than the seal diameter but large enough the lip on the seal fits comfortably inside. You can drive the bushing (with the washer on top of it) using your makeshift tool and a plastic mallet or block of wood. Then do the same for the oil seal. DO NOT USE A STEEL HAMMER AS YOU CAN DAMAGE THE FORK TUBE.

Heard of them, don't know anything about them. EXCEPT - on a hunch I checked, you won't get a stator from Yamaha.

As you search eBay for parts don't make your search too narrow. I've got a friend that needed a fairing half - at the time decent ones were going for about $250. He found a listing for a fairing stay (thin metal tube the fairing attaches to). The fairing half he needed was attached to the stay and included. He purchased the fairing stay for $25 and got a free fairing half with it.

Nope. 16". 2nd Gen is 15. But camos, I hope those aren't the tires you bought. The rear should be a MU90-16 and the front an MT90-18.

Note that I edited my post while you were posting. Bottom line is the same though. Some parts (primarily power train) are still available from Yamaha. Some common parts (cluch disks, brake system parts, carburetor parts) are available aftermarket. Anything else will have to come from places like eBay and craigslist. You can also ask here - many of us have misc. spares laying around.

There isn't going to be much difference in the value of a Royale vs. a Standard. Things like condition, mileage etc. will probably affect the value more than the equipment options. All of the powertrain and structural parts are the same. Most of the body and electrical parts are also the same. Your fastest and cheapest way to get a rider is probably to use parts from the Royalle to complete the Standard. You could even move the Royalle options if you want them. If your goal is to turn a profit don't bother with a restoration. They're worth more in parts than as running motorcycles.

On the other hand, with equal travel the other direction you could probably get to a place you could drink your cocoa slow without it freezing solid.

I wouldn't give up. I think It should run better than it is with even only 120PSI compression. If it's been sitting rings can stick in their grooves and valves can get some surface rust. After it runs awhile the compression might come up. Also, with them all being the same and low I'd wonder if the compression gauge was reading correctly. From my first post: At 120PSI you might not get the full 10" of vacuum. Until you get to 8 or 9 though I'd still be looking for other issues.

I'd like to add that you likely do not need the steels. Unless you tear them up slipping the clutch they usually don't require replacement. Unless you've absolutely got to turn it around in a couple hours I suggest you pull it apart and measure everything. There is a decent chance you only need springs (replace them even if they measure good).

If you get them synchronized at 4-5" it's not running right for some reason. It should sync at about 10". I'd go after it in the following order: 1) Check the air cleaner. 2) Compression test. Spec is somewhere in the range of 170 but if they're above 120 you probably have another problem. 3) Check for vacuum leaks. 4) Re-do the carbs or have someone that knows how do them.\ 5) 2 1/2 turns is probably too lean. You need to sync, adjust mixtures, set idle, sync, adjust mixtures, set idle several times to tune it properly. This list assumes you are correct that the ignition system is functioning properly. In my experience the falling down when you give throttle is either low air flow (low compression, vacuum leak) or lean (carbs).

The air cut off valve is a different thing than the enrichment valve. The enrichment valves add fuel in place of a choke for cold starts, in fact the lever that operates them is labeled "CHOKE". They do not have diaphragms but are plungers with a seal on the end. The air cut off valves remove some air from the idle mixture at high vacuum, which occurs when coasting. This is done to reduce lean backfire when the throttle is closed and the motorcycle is pushing the engine. They are operated by little diaphragms. This sounds like what you are describing. I don't worry about air cut off valve diaphragms unless they have a hole or are torn.

Just like the VCR and internet - adult activities will drive the robotics field too.

In 1985 I earned a degree in Computer Science from the University of Cincinnati. My dozen or so classmates and I were the first to receive that degree from U.C. If we'd written user interfaces like I see on many kiosks and consumer devices we wouldn't have got our diplomas. McDonalds became huge by providing food people liked, at a reasonable price and fast. Now the food tastes like crap, takes as long as a sit down restaurant and costs almost as much. I figure I might as well sit down and have a better meal someone brings to the table. The Kiosks won't fix that. The day is fast approaching when machines will take most of the remaining jobs. Probably the last ones to go will be the ones designing and maintaining the machines. It'll be interesting to see what the world looks like then.

Plus you'll be out what you pay the movers on the buyer's behalf.

I agree. I wonder if the asking price isn't too low. At a higher price you'd probably attract a better quality buyer. I learned something from my ex-wife when we had a garage sale. At the end of the first day very little had sold. She said: "Our prices are too low, people think it's junk" and proceeded to double the prices. The 2nd day was like locusts.

I don't see how. The wheel and the hub are locked together by the splines. If lack of lube seized them together the wheel would still turn. What happens without lube is the splines wear and the wheel isn't locked to the hub. Maybe if something actually broke and jammed in the hub or wheel.........

The only thing that can cause high voltage is the regulator/rectifier. Replace it.

If you decide to leave that tire on remember this: The tire will WAY out last the grease on the drive splines. Don't forget to service them periodically.

For some reason Mikuni thought that needle needed a washer on top of the E-ring. I'd leave it and add another washer below the E-ring.

I'm not sure just what you mean about top/bottom end. You cannot mix upper and lower case halves - they are machined as a unit. I do believe you can swap the 2nd gen gear set into your case, I seem to recall someone doing that.

It's like a Dodge Neon vs. a Lincoln Town Car. Not even in the same league. I will say the suspension has to be adjusted properly. When my wife started riding with me she'd occasionally let out a grunt on bumps. I finally figured out the suspension was bottoming out and that would give her quite a smack. I put another 20PSI in the shock and she was much happier. And yes, she's been known to sleep back there.

Pontoon boat. Helm console is the highest point, other the Bimini which moves and has an aluminum framework.

Jay, The configuration in the old console seemed to be adequate too. But we keep the boat in the middle of Jackson County with most of the stations we want coming from Lansing 30 miles away. I want to make sure I get every bit extra I can.

We're redoing our pontoon boat and I have a question about the dipole FM antenna for the radio. The dipole is 41" long but the widest dimension on the console is 28". If I put the antenna in the console it either needs to be cut or folded. In the old console it was shaped like figure A . This is looking down. It seems to me that "B" would be a better solution. I could stretch it out straight below the floor but I assume all the aluminum structure down there would create worse problems than bending or cutting it. Same problem with putting it in a seat - it'd be running parallel to an aluminum sheet. So do I bend it in a U as originally, make the Z shape in figure B, trim it or bend the ends downward? Thoughts?