Marcarl

They is probably busy packin,,, you know how long that takes when the woman wants to come along.

he ain't gonna be at MD,, well at least there'll be less competition. Have a good time Dick, return safe.

I know I know,,,,, but you look like you as well, but still you have different parts with different names,, but I guess maybe you don't have any joints, and maybe now I'm edumacated. Now if you don't have any joints, u could be kind of stiff, or maybe sloppy, but it would be a 'y'oke either way.

Wow, the things I get to learn from this site, wonder why I ever went to school, should have just got my edumacation here. Thanks Monty!

Is it gravel you want, then it's here now, if it's CS then it could be here about supper time if the shop hasn't run out.

Maybe a day late, but enjoy: http://www.flixxy.com/britains-got-talent-shadow-theatre-group-attraction.htm#.UWubgb3vaSp

I usually have some here, cost is about 20 for a 4L, it also works great for gas tank cleaning. Add some CS and nails, screws, gravel and shake it around, let it sit and shake some more. CS works as good as navel jelly, or better.

If that is the set-up, all my worries were in vain,,, just replacing the bolts should do it,,, but I would reconsider the 100ft lbs of torque,,,, seems a little hefty on those bolts, 35 to 50 would seem a better choice.

In a u-joint there are basically 3 parts. The cross,(or what ever it's called) sets into 2 yokes. The one yoke is part of the drive shaft, and the other part of the yoke is attached to the deferential. Usually the cross is bolted onto the one yoke with 2 flat u-bolts and these I think is what you are referring to coming loose. As they loosen the cross will be allowed to wiggle a bit and so wear out the yoke that it is inserted into. Often time mechanics will insert some shimming material into the yoke to tighten it back up again and so save the problem and expense of replacing the yoke,,, although it might work for some time, it's not something I would do, unless the parts are no longer available.

I don't think there are too many of us that use the petcock,, even if it's working it's a tough one to move, much easier to keep an eye on the fuel gauge. Why do you want to replace the handle bars, are they rusty,,, just clean them, apply some Fluid Film and your good to go. The right side switch has been taken apart by most of us, just cleaned, lubed and used some more. To clean the engine I use an orange based product called Citrosolve, a Dominion Chemical product, gets rid of anything, including rust and paint if used full strength, works wonders on the engine. If you want some, let me know and when either you're up here aor I'm down there I'll make sure you get some.

I'm not sayin nothin'......

from WHERE?????

No reason it wouldn't work, you just might to Mcguiver the primary wiring from single to 2 wire, and you have to worry about the size, I believe an older Ford one is about the right size.

Thanks Brad, but as Annie said it's the same in Australia, as well as Canada, so we'll take it as an all around blessing to have those who serve around us and for us. To go somewhat further,,,, as the boys and girls go out to militarily fight for freedom, for us and others, let us remember to support them with what we do here at home. Let us not let the freedom so passionately won, go unattended here at home. The biggest thanks we can give to our service people is to continue to closely guard our freedoms on our own soil. This is not their job, not the job of the government or the politicians, it's yours and mine. Let us continue to stand for what is right, let our voices be heard and let our actions not betray our words. This is not a one day thing, but a fight for life, we must not, can not, let it go. And OH,, I know I might have started it, but let's not let this thread get to political or religious grandstanding.

My thoughts are traveling to the vacuum port or lines, either one could be blocked???

Under the left side inner faring is the CC module. Your handle bar cables run to it, and from there are 2 short cables to the carbs. Could be rusty in that module and you might have found the solution to that problem at least.

If that happened you might want to check the yoke out good, for wear. Those bolts might have been loose for some time and the cross might have been wearing into the yokes, you would then have a loose or un-balanced connection, where it should be tight and secure.

Might be good to tell us just exactly what they do and what they don't do,,, some of us might not know. Price might also be helpful. Thanks Carl

Could out of timing, not likely, but I might check to make sure the plug wires go to the correct plugs, the ones coming from the back coils go to the back plugs. High idle could be a very bad sync, where one carb is holding the others open, so it could be running on 3 with the one carb closed off. If that is the case, then you'll have vacuum very high on one carb and hardly nothing, or nothing at all on the others, so to start with you'll have to adjust the high vacuum carb down first, then go at the others.

I offered something similar to a Woodstockainian but he's doing it with shovel and wheelbarrow. Works really nice though, don't it.

Your crankcase is more than half full and you've sucked oil into the breather, happens if the crankcase is too full. Drain the crankcase to half full, clean the breather and airbox and then run some cleaner or seafoam through the tank to clean the carbs.

Maybe a short in the starter causing the solenoid to burn out???????

I can feel your pain,,, it's happened more than once, not coming off a trailer,, but going over gives one a real let down feeling. OUCH!

Sent a paypal for 1 medium

Gonna miss you bud, praying that all goes well for ya.