Vickersguy

Thank's for stopping in Jeff. My thought is to install a rocker switch inline with the power supply to the hi/low relay that I can throw after the bike is running. I'm hoping that this will light up the warning lite in the instrument cluster to remind me to turn on the headlight. That said, I'm seeing an enormous differences in HID prices. I am only interested in reliability and I suspect prices and reliability are only loosely related. An HID light is a big investment, in the $50 to $70 range. The top rated Quartz Halogen, the Pillips extreme vision, is around $10, shipping included and it's a drop in. We'll see where the budget takes me going forward. I'd prefer the HID once I figure out which one is the best for longevity. I'm looking for some personal experiences from the crew here, as to how long their lights have lasted and so forth. Perhaps even a make and model # just to help me out here. It's for a Mk1, but I think the setup is the same for Mk2's also.

Back in the day, it was easy to get those cool Quartz Halogen 85/55 watt lamps to really goose up the view at night. It was plug and play. They are no longer made as far as I can tell. So the research started. I've read posts here till I started bleeding from my ears tonight and ended up more confused than ever. Flyingfool has been tireless in promoting his HID conversion. He's convinced me HID is the way to go now but the bulbs he recommends are obsolete. Is there an HID that is plug and play yet or do you have to mount a driver with all HID lamps ? I've pulled two driving/spot lamps and 10 marker lamps (along with about 50# of chrome plated junk) off my '83 to clean it up. The stator plug was about burned up with the power going through it so it was hard wired ala cowpuc's video advice. 10 marker lamps at 5 watts each and two spots which were probably 35 watts each, gives me around 120 watts load off the stator. I could do a 100/55 watt quartz lamp but HID would be kinder to the system. At least I do have the oil cooling modification on the stator. That's probably all that prevented it from burning up. So now, can someone point me at an HID lamp that is correct for the Mk1 headlamp reflector so I get the focused beam ? One with a passive heatsink and a built in driver would be cool ! If it used 50 watts maybe I wouldn't have to jump out all that stuff in the CMS. I've got enough problems already with the "Dim Headlight Hi/Low are the same" issue. Probably the relay or the ground but that trouble shooting process hasn't started yet. Just looking forward to trying an upgrade to the system when I get there...

On reading your post carefully, You may have several problems. If there is a hole in your heat exchanger, that could be messing up the natural draft and pushing the pilot flame away from the thermocouple. You must be cautious about that. It would be worth the effort to use a smoke source, like incense or a cigarette, to check the air flow around the pilot while the blower is running but the main flame is not lit. If air is flowing out of the combustion side of the heat exchanger you should see the smoke blowing away from the pilot area, towards your hand holding the smoke source. This would indicate you have a hole in the heat exchanger. If the smoke rolls gently into the furnace, while the blower is running, you're good. If you have a standard fan controller, which looks like a silver box on the front of the furnace with a shielded bi-metallic curley Q extending into the heat exchanger, it probably has reached the end of it's service life at 30 years. When they get corroded, they don't twist when heated and throw the fan switch like they should. You might adjust the "off limit', higher. It's one of the little silver "clock hands" around the disc inside the box. ( I hope I've got this right, Clockwise from "noon" the first hand is the emergency shut off switch that shuts off the burner to prevent heat exchanger damage when the blower fails to run. Second hand is the "on" switch to start the blower, and the third hand is the "off" switch that turns the blower off. ) Moving the third hand a short distance counter clockwise, will raise the temp the fan will shut off at and will compensate for the lack of travel that might be the problem with the fan switch. I'm thinking that the fan switch not shutting off, is it's own problem and not connected to the main flame ignition issue, unless there is the fore mentioned hole in the heat exchanger. You probably know all this stuff already, but I thought it would be best to examine the basics first before the more exotic explanations.

Sounds like the condensing furnace I had in the late 80's. As I remember its a bear to work on. I had a similar or exactly the same issue with mine. (it's been a long time ) I recollect that the pilot flame was too far away from the thermocouple. I had to tweek the thing so the flame hit the thermocouple as it was only close to the tip. I also had issues with the exhaust blower not making the switch. If you have a power exhaust blower, that has to make the switch to light the main burner... but that shouldn't be affected just by moving air close to the furnace. I'm voting for the flame not being close enough to the thermocouple. The thermocouple should be secured with a nut you can loosen, then slide the thermocouple in a bit so it's closer to the pilot. Then take two shots of whiskey and call me in the morning.

I'm having a blast restoring my '83 Royale. It's hard to wrap my mind around the fact this bike is one month younger than my son and I'm a Grandfather now. It's amazing what good condition this bike is in. Yeah, it's got some small cracks in the fairing that I've repaired with fiberglass and some scuffs that won't rub out, but all-in-all, it's in great shape. The new seat cover really spiffs it up. I'm into the valves now and getting the hang of it again. Last time I did this was on my CBX in '86. I love working on these old bikes almost as much as driving them. Grubsie beat me to the shim kit request. So to any members who could bring themselves to share one with me, it sure would help. I also live about 5 hours drive from any dealer who has the slightest idea what a 25mm. shim is for. The Yamaha dealers around here have out board motors and ATV's . Not a bike in sight. I didn't think bout checking the Honda dealers. That's next.

As am addendum to Bob K's ( Squidly ) observations, here's my thoughts for those without Metric feeler gauges. Given that wear results in tighter clearances, one will almost always be going to a thinner shim. The intake minimum clearance is .11mm or .00433* inch. If you have a good set of feeler gauges it will have a .0015 and a .0025 "leaf" in the stack. The .002 and the .0025 add up to .0045. If the .0045 will not go under the cam, it is at a minimum clearance and you need the next thinner shim. The exhaust minimum clearance is .15mm. This is .0063 inch. Use the .004 and the .0025 together for .0065 inch. If this combination will not go under the cam, then it is too tight and you need the next thinner shim. The .0045 and the .0065 become a simple go/no go measuring point for deciding if you need to change a shim. One shim step is .0024 inch. In my opinion, if the feeler gauge is tight, but goes under with some wiggling, you probably can go to the next thinner shim. Being 1/4 step too loose is way preferable to skipping the change and quickly wearing to the minimum clearance. I, for one, do not wish to go back in again any time soon. I haven't done the math, but if .0025 inch leaf won't pass under the cam, you need to go two steps on the shim, rather than one.

Rimfire Central is a lovely site, full of .22lr fans who have much the same depth and breadth of information about the 22lr as there is here for the Yamaha Venture motorcycles. I did not look it up but my memory is that for 500 yards the holdover becomes very dependent on the make of ammunition. Generally the holdover is between 8 and 12 feet at 500 yards. At 800 yards it is somewhere in the low to mid 30 foot range. Also, at those ranges the cone of probable hit opens up to 20 inches or more. It's very ammo dependent. Rimfire Central has a section on long range shooting of 22lr out to 1000 yards.

Glad to see you've mounted it on a .22lr. BSA scopes are a cut above Walmart Crossfire scopes but not by a huge margin. A BSA scope can be awesome in limited circumstances. For example, if you and your friends like going to the range and busting clay pigeon at 75 yards and you always shoot at 75 yards. If you shoot random distances between 30 and 200 yards or are shooting at dusk, this is not the scope you should have. Looking at your rifle, I think you have a good match.

I saw a $58 price but the part # was 11-1114, not 11-1112.

Here's a possible source, https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/mpo/d/83-yamaha-venture-parts/6746715611.html

I use an ordinary 10 inch "C" clamp. They cost about $20

I hope I can talk someone into lending me one. I found the skydoc offer AFTER I ordered new valve cover gaskets. Maybe I can work something out with him anyway.

I just wanted to avoid tying up my limited resources in a $60 tool I will use one time. I could sell it here and recoup most of the cost, I suppose. Or try to borrow one from a member. The ease of use of the Honda tool appealed to me also. I preferred the design and shim change process to the Yamaha procedure.

Well I've seen the list of motorcycles that use the 25mm. shims and it includes the CBX. I had an '81 CBX and as I remember the shim tool rotated around the cam shaft and depressed the "bucket" the shim rests on, so you could remove the shim. I remember the tool did two valves at the same time. The Venture tool does two also, I think. While the distance the valve moves through might not be the same, the amount the tool would have to move the bucket would be the same. Just enough to remove the shim. The width would be the distance between the buckets. That might be different enough to make the Honda tool useless. There was a post years ago that mentioned the Suzuki/Seca valve tool. The one shaped like a question mark. Has anyone tried this ? The links given in that old post are mostly dead and no-one ever posted that " Yes, I use it all the time " post that would be so helpful. Except the guy who said he did it. Once. Before I rush off to buy that Suzuki/Seca tool, did anyone else try it ? I hate to waste my precious lucre on silly wild goose chases but this one tempts me greatly, even if I have to modify the tool slightly. If someone tried it and failed miserably, I'd love to know.

KB1MIQ, not very active since Florence took out my antenna. General class lic. here in North Carolina.

Well Doug, as you can see, they are better than mine by several orders of magnitude. I'll pm you about them...

Awesome Doug !!! Looking forward to seeing them. Somebody please tell me I don't have to take apart the fairing to get the carbs out ? To my surprise it took a crowbar to gently lift them off the boots. Those throttle cables are now 'In the way ". Perhaps if I take apart the twist grip.... LOL, putting this back together will be a b****. ! It has to be done. The slides are covered with foam particles from the degraded air cleaner seal, mixed with oil in a kind of paste. The pilot air orifices also have plenty of goo. What a mess. Perhaps if I re-installed the carbs with some sort of zipper...

I love your suggestions but a rebuild of the tranny is not much of an option for me. Back in the day, when I was a little younger, I would have jumped on it. I'm 65 now, and the prospect of getting the motor out and then back in to the frame is.... daunting. I should have a job this winter which might provide some funds but I am retired and there are certain restraints in cash as well as physical limitations that were not an issue when I had my last Venture back in '97. I will not be hammering on the motor anyway. Not my riding style. My priorities will be good tires and brakes, careful and thorough inspection of the drive train, re-lube all bearings and such. I will spend some time keeping the bike looking sharp. My shop is fairly complete, but I do miss my milling machine and glass bead cabinet. I might have a lathe next spring but I'm not sure it's condition yet. I have a nice tig welder for the frame issue, should it arise. For this restoration, my approach will be....um...more sweat than cash. I guess that's the best way to put it. For example, instead of shopping around for a minty original trunk, I've glassed up the shattered lower trunk case. I did the same with the side covers. They look great. My biggest fear is age related failure of the various seals on the motor. The rubber of the brake lines, carburetor diaphragms, etc. are all at their "end of shelf life" stage. I've been wrenching on bikes for over 40 years so I've some idea what I'm doing. This is bike #20 for me. I don't imagine I'll put on more than 10K miles on it before I give up and retire from riding. I think this bike will be fine for my purposes, without a transmission rebuild. Though it would be fun...

My Pipes are good candidates for a re-chrome job. No big scratches or dents, but the pitting is deep. Picking the direction forward is constrained by $. I am going to wait a bit and see what the options end up being. The brake and clutch systems are screaming for an overhaul. I was lucky enough to get the plug out of the rear brake reservoir without damaging it and was able to free up all the brake zirks as well. Brake pads are 1/4 worn. So far, so good. 2nd. gear works, as it should at 31K miles.

Sorry, Ontario. I wonder if the shipping would be all that bad...

Very nice pipes there, Marcarl. Here's what I have, after a half hour trying to clean them up.... I also spent a half hour trying to get the pic rotated, to no effect. They are solid, but rusty and burned. Yours, even with the dings, are nicer. So you're in Washington ? Tacoma ? You're right, the shipping would suck. I'm going to look locally, but right now, your pipes will be hard to beat around here.

LOL, coverage is not an option. Like most restoration projects, one starts with a vision. The only deviation I plan from the original is that I would prefer the shorty windscreen. I'm willing to upgrade the ignition and so-forth, progressive springs and such, but the original Blond '83 is what I'm looking to create. ( Besides, I've already taken off 40 lbs. of chrome plated steel stuff bolted all over the machine. ) Good thought though. I can put them both back on if I have to. The radiator cover and chrome scoop are here in the parts box. I'll keep an eye out on e-bay and I bet a forum member might come forth.

I usually don't have much trouble finding things on the net. This time, however... I've covered all the bases and I believe the restoration of my Blonde '83 VR should be straight forward but I've hit the wall on new front header pipes. Mine are in good shape aside from some corrosion, but I'd like to have them really nice. E-bay, Craigslist, Google, Bing, etc. have not provided productive leads. Anyone have a source for NOS pipes ? Alternatively, a place that will chrome older pipes ? Chrome shops usually will not do parts that have been exposed to oil at high temperatures as the oil has been baked into the metal and messes up the chrome solution tanks. As you folks have been doing this for some time, perhaps you have an angle on this. Lastly, will the 1300 cc. pipes fit on the 1200cc. engine ? This would double the pool of salvage pipes I'm probably going to have to "paw" through. I'd hate to do a classy restoration only to do the front pipes with barbecue flat black... that is so wrong...