Neil86

what exactly is the issue you are trying to fix, now you have oil level back to normal. The crankcase vent will allow trace amounts of oil into air plenums in normal operation, and any that goes through the carb is mixed with fuel and burnt in engine...the intake runners should be clean.

You don't mention the pipes on the bike if they are stock or not. Might want to check for an exhaust leak typically at the front muffler joint. At 9900 miles probably had a rear tire change already and removal of right muffler is common with tire removal.

You mentioned you were testing in with all hoses off to the side, not sure if that applied to the bowl vents too. Its been awhile since I did the valves on my 99...thought I had a pic of air plenum off...don't see it on this computer. Are the bowl vent hoses going through the hole in the carb frame at the front of the carbs...pretty sure thats the route...if they are connected passing over the frame I think the air plenum will pinch them.

My point is the right and left side use the same side panel mounting points...just remove the right side to see whats missing on left. You are missing the the lower cowling on the left that attaches with screws, then the front side cover pins push into lower. You should be able to remove right side cover with sidecar in place. As for most other maintenance you might have to remove sidecar...ie oil changes, sparkplugs, rear brakes etc. If the rubber strap is hanging loose on right, attach it before riding anywhere as it will shake off frame and drop out on the road.

Are you saying the right side band is there...

Yes...they are removable...but it appears the mount is there.

And the side cover the rubber tab hooks on the tab on the side cover, the other end attaches to the catch on the tubular support that runs horizontal beside cylinders.

Check for the small o ring that sits under the cover too.

It sounds from your description like a pressurized leak since it stops when engine and fuel pump stop....in other words at fuel pump or fuel to carbs or carb overflows. Maybe with bike off, figure out the 4 overflow hoses from the carbs (there are a couple others, fuel tank vent, coolant reservoir...) Make sure they (the carb overflows)are not misrouted so they can't dump fuel higher up. At fuel pump, make sure both hoses (suction and discharge)are securely attached. I wouldn't try running bike looking for the leak....but when you turn on the key, the pump will run for a few seconds, then time out if engine does not rotate. Watching fuel pump area turn key on and just let it pump a few seconds. Better than a leak on the fuel tank itself.

You shouldn't have to worry about YICS system this was used on the 1200's (83-85). You might verify you have spark on all 4 cylinders....some ignition component failures take out 2 cylinders. The brass caps are external facing out just above the drain hose bracket. Approx vertical centerline of diaphragm cover and just below it. They are approx pencil eraser diameter with a small hole in center....yours might be gone.

Okay...thought you only had the tank vent hose removed...sorry

You mention coil rack painting....I think there might be a ground point in that vicinity. Might even be on one of the rack bolts? Make sure its clean (ie no paint) and in place.

Probably start with cleaned battery connections then test voltage at the battery posts. A battery in good charge will be around 12.6 V DC......then start bike and see what battery voltage tests running.

The tank vent elbow has a very small orifice in it... try blowing (lung power)back through it with cap open.

The left carbs share a carb bowl vent hose.....that runs forward and down in front of left air box in lowers. Ensure the hose and carb vent nozzles are clear.

Don't see the item number for the glass GH...which one works...

I would ensure the vent hoses are not pinched by the tank.

Kevin...yes on the rollover valve on the 2nd Gen.

If plug wires and caps were tucked into chassis to R&R engine, are they still making good contact at both ends (coil and cap).

Yes if he runs the Ignitech on an 83 he has to use the synch port as a vacuum signal. With the engine running the ignition circuit is under load so the voltage should be accurate then.

Just out of curiousity, this afternoon I went to the RMSportmax site that handle the final drive gear changes (VMax gears into Venture case). They have a Tech Question email section where you can ask John Furbur tech questions....got a reply a few minutes ago. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- John.... since your company tears down several VMax & Venture final drive units each year, could you answer a question for me and several others on a Venture forum. On the 86 and newer Venture final drive, are the rear driveshaft splines that sit in the coupler receiving lubrication of gear oil from final drive. Thanks Neil. his reply........... Yes, they do Thanx for asking SportMax! John http://www.RMSportMax.com 1-610-509-VMAX(8629) .............................................................................

You mention you are running Ignitech.....where is the vacuum hose hooked up to on your bike. Even though most of the wiring is updated I would still verify the voltage is good on the ignition circuit. Another member went through major grief and found a bad crimp on his new fusebox wiring.

Have you inspected the vent hoses for the carbs....one for left carbs one for right...make sure the hose is clear (free of debris), not pinched by tank and routed fwd of airboxes in the lowers. If the vents are plugged, carb pressures up and no fuel will enter.

http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?act=ST&f=56&t=7530&st=0#entry90529

During any of these poor running incidents has the tach dropped to zero (with engine still running)and acted erratic? Have you tested the voltage on the ignition fuse...on the load side red/white wire....maybe you have low voltage to ignition system due to a poor connection...ie fuse clips etc. Is the battery voltage normal while running?