Neil86

I would sure hate to spend $350 and find out I had a power issue...but its your bike.

Unfortunately you will find there is a draw. The Backup fuse circuit provides power to memory on audio, trip meters etc. with key on or off. So you would need to pull the Backup fuse for the test.

Before condemning the fuel pump, take a multimeter, and test for voltage on the connector at the pump. With key on, kill switch on, in neutral should have power for a couple seconds then stop. Once cranking starter, should have power again.

The aux plugs (in fairing and one under seat) are on the same wire from ignition switch as the audio. The wire (brown/black) feeds the front aux. fuse, rear aux. fuse, and the audio fuse. When the ignition switch is off that wire is disconnected to battery power. By connecting the charger you are only powering the audio, and the other aux plug. Its common on cars and trucks for the cigarette plug to be live at all times so it probably works fine on vehicles. Even though there is a circuit that is powered all the time to keep audio memory (Backup fuse) I'm pretty sure they are separate. Bottom line is I doubt your charger is helping the battery as connected, and the varying voltage into audio probably isn't the best for its components. You should look for an adapter to trickle charge right to battery terminals.

Spear... where exactly are you plugging in the charger....into the cigarette lighter style plug on the fairing?

I would retry the audio but have the blue/white disconnected to see if the audio still functions (sound wise). Did the oil and water lights stay on the entire ride back home or would come off and on for no reason?

The 4 pickup coils have a common which is the black on that same connector....it is common for pickup coils NOT motorcycle ground. The black on other 8 wire connector is ground. so test Orange-Black, Gray-Black etc. testing color to color will be testing resistance through 2 coils thus results twice spec.

Are you noticing the tachometer is bouncing around, dipping to zero and back up even though engine is still running somewhat normal? The TCI is mounted on the bottom side of the rack that the 4 ignition coils are bolted onto., basically above the heatshield atop the front cylinder head of the engine.

Are the two lights oil and hi temp staying on even with radio disconnected?

okay, revisited wiring diagram...it ties in between the SCCR and starter button... pushing starter button grounds both. When you say radio doesn't work....does display come on but no sound or nothing? Where did they disconnect radio?

I hope he has a full recovery.

I think I mentioned this to you in a previous thread of the issue your friend was having....there is a blue/white wire from audio that goes to starter circuit cutoff relay...when trying to crank engine, this wire grounds and audio is muted (guessing to save power).

getting there...but its been a week.

Try the contact in Calgary I gave you....I'm sure he has a few.

They are great bikes when they are running right....may you have many enjoyable miles on your "new" bike!

There should be 3 wires Green for the fuel level display Green/White for the low level light Black ground.

You might try removing the plastic housing that surrounds the ignition switch. You will find the 3 wire harness for the fuel tank sender. Unplug, and clean connector and reconnect. It may be high resistance causing the dim bulb.

After replacing plug, check vacuum and resynch of course...

Pretty common on wet clutch systems using heavier oils.

You're trying with engine running.....plates can stick together with the heavier oils without engine spinning clutch.

The other end is going into riders left fairing area?

aftermarket cruise control cable?

1. Any evidence of the white sludge that was inside the airbox (in another thread) being in the air inlet of that carb...there are air bleeds that can plug with something like that. 2. Is that carb drawing proper vacuum at idle to allow the idle circuit to operate. (carb synch). 3. Is the YICS system in service or removed? (Possible vacuum leak, leaned out at idle, misfire) No vacuum leak on synch cap etc?

If you have battery voltage on the brown wire, there is no drop on the ignition switch Red is power in, brown is power out to fuse block...both test the same.

Well I would still try a known good unit (my spare)as a test. Regarding the 1.5 V drop...the thing is its after the ignition switch (brown wire)and lower on the power side of fuse block. Another question...on your battery posts do you have any extra wires or solely the cables?