Neil86

Kevin... Have you been able to determine from build dates whether the Canadian models were built before the US model for a particuliar model year?

They are doing maintenance and updates, expect to be on later today. See their facebook page for updates.

VanRiver... I would expect you can access shims in Calgary without ordering new ones and shipping. Try smaller independent shops they will typically have a shim kit in their shop. Even my Yamaha dealer will trade me shims for a couple $ exchange (vs $9 per new shim). The nice thing about trading shims is the factory built the engines with 250-252-255-258-260 etc shims but Yamaha only sells 250-255-260-etc shims so you can't dial in the clearance as well. I have a range of sizes if you get in a bind give me a shout.

In order to trade shims around between cylinders you still need at least one spare shim, preferably a thin one.

Okay...you didn't mention the initial lack of a resistor....might have damaged the CMS. To prove out the wire...test continuity all the way to the CMS plug....think the battery probe is a white/red wire...but check a wiring diagram.

Probably the resistor...unhook both ends of the bypass harness and test continuity.

I would think you could test for continuity from the harness terminal pin to the 2 reed switches to determine which is hi beam, which is low.

Good idea to verify the vacuum hose is hooked up as per Prairiehammers post. If the hose is not connected pressure sensor is seeing zero vacuum and timing advance will be severely reduced causing poor fuel economy and power.

Before tearing into carbs.....what model is the TCI you presently have in the bike (tag on cover 26H-xx or 41R-xx) and where is the vacuum signal hose connected?

While having the harness unhooked at both ends for continuity test also test the wire vs battery negative to ensure there is not a short to ground in between coil and igniter as this will prevent firing spark plug too. No aftermarket tachometer connected to the #2 coil?

stator cover same part 83-93...so YES

I think they are pretty common in the UK to get theft insurance. What is the make and model of the alarm?

Just a heads up....the oil deflector washer that sits in the center of the cover is backwards....lip should face rotor bolt.

Automotive wires are suppression wires.....high resistance to prevent interference with the many electronic devices under the hood. The stranded metal core OEM wires will only be an ohm or two without the ends. Combining suppression wires and the resistor caps is way more resistance than the stock ignition can handle.

Is the tachometer needle bouncing down to zero briefly while still running? You might also while the engine is running test the voltage on the wire crimp on the load side of the ignition fuse (should be a red/white wire) as the stock fuse clips sometimes overheat and lose tension on the glass fuses. Are the new plug wires metal core.....with the resistor caps you need low resistance wires.

There is no reason to remove the covers unless the pickup coils do not test good. The testing is performed at the connectors, as described earlier in this thread. Because of the low voltage the pickup coils produce....and since you described treating all connections perhaps there is too much grease on the pickup coil connections.

Is the air induction (AIS) still hooked up....2 hoses on 2 synch ports?

There also should be a compression spring in the lever that pushes it fully out. You don't want to use the freeplay adjustment to force the lever out. Check out item 7 on the parts list....is the spring missing? http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1986/VENTURE%20ROYALE%20-%20XVZ1300DS/HANDLE%20SWITCH%20LEVER/parts.html

The free play is to ensure the brake is not partially applied with lever at rest....otherwise they can overheat on the road. Easiest check on the switch is to gently pull on it to see if it remains latched.

The way the test reads in the manual the test is done with pump still connected on the fluid end. If you test with points open because of where the pump stroke ended up when key was shut off it would fail a good pump.

That adjustment is actually the free play adjustment for the brake lever. Are you sure the switch is fully seated in the lever housing?

If you didn't have to switch to reserve you might find that the standpipe for the ON position of petcock has come off. This has happened to a few bikes....essentially like running on reserve position at all times, but not having a coarse filter.

So now it won't start even with the radio unplugged or they are trying to figure out how the radio is preventing starting.

By design power is normally available to the pump assembly for ~ 5 seconds after key is turned on (and kill switch), until engine rotation is detected. This is to prevent fuel being pumped out a leak when normally there should be no fuel required. The points apply/break power to pump windings based on position of pump shaft. You might want to verify that power is available at electrical connector at key on for the few seconds. It could be the pump relay has failed.

Any possibility the replacement hose has a kink restricting flow to pump? Have you also tried tank petcock in both positions....on & reserve?