Neil86

Maybe for the benefit of others post the make/model of fuel pump in the bike.

Michael... I think its safer knowing what your bike does for fuel range rather than the average for the group.

Okay... I would shut off the fuel petcock to prevent more leakage till you sort it out. One problem that seems to occur is while the stock fuel pump has spring loaded valves some of the aftermarket units do not. Even though the float needles are supposed to seal in a perfect world, the stock pump valves gave a secondary barrier to fuel getting through the float needles when parked.

Does your Walmart still sell fire extinguishers at the end of the fuse aisle?

If you are taking significant volume of liquid....I would be concerned one of your left cylinders was full of fuel when it was started. You might have lucked out on a possible hydo lock damaging the engine. Is the oil level now high....check for possible gasoline in crankcase. One or more carbs having leaking float needles. Any chance the bike is running an aftermarket fuel pump....

Pretty sure the early Royal Star 96-01 has no counterbalance shaft if they have a picture of block.

Marcarl... If you check at the fuse first....check both sides. If you have no power on the blue on the power side, that is supplied by its own wire from the ignition switch. This is so the bike can be left with switch in Park position and key out, with front and rear running/tailights on. Power for front running lights tapped off after fuse and before CMS. You didn't mention if front running lights are operational.

Jeff is spot on about testing connections. On electrical many replace components needlessly, and most places won't let you return electrical parts (for good reason). Test, test, retest before replace.

On a 85, I think the front running lights and tailight are on the Tailight fuse.... blue wire in, blue out.

They do run hot. When you did your initial test and seen the low reading on the charging system yesterday was the bike hot?

Well hopefully its just a bad crimp.

Just going by the wiring diagram....did you get the reading on the spade of the terminal?

Fuel pump, cranking circuit, ignition and now fan...all on the ignition fuse. Quote: Even though you redid fuse box....with key on, verify you have battery voltage on the wire on the load side of the Ignition fuse.? You replied it was 11.93 on load side of ignition. I would recheck the voltage making sure the crimp on the load side wire (the red/white) is not bad. Too many things are pointing to a bad power supply on this circuit.

It appears your charging system is not performing. So best go to the Tech section and follow the testing method. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81297 even a bad connection could be causing the issue.

A fully charged battery thats been sitting for an hour or so should have about 12.6 V. Then if the no start happens...retest battery voltage while pushing start button, see what it does. As for charging system, with the bike slightly above idle speed you should have voltage in the 13.5-14.5 V range. The rectifier regulator, rectifies the AC current your stator produces and makes it DC current so the bike systems can use it, and recharge your battery which also produces DC current. The regulator part of the RR controls the bike voltage from getting too high or low. Stock location for RR is in front of oil filter.

I've been asked about the plate number on both sides...my LED brake light bar under trunk seems to block their camera view. Pretty sure your plate number gets recorded on each crossing.

Interesting Kevin.. even the electric antidive is the later side mounted (88-up) vs the front mounted 86-87 version.

You need to do some voltage testing on the battery to prove/disprove thats the issue. Yes it could be the battery was discharged, and charging helped...or it could be its a hit and miss issue elsewhere....voltage testing while it is doing the no start will pinpoint it..

wonder if anyone has ever replaced one...lol Regarding the open vent...I know my 86 sorta reeks if the hose isn't attached securely to airbox.

well perhaps its not identical...but same concept...however the RSV drains the plenums down behind the engine where the coolant and tank vent hoses are...didn't the 83 drain upwind of the engine so it could blow back onto frame.

Aside from the passport issue...will the bike plate match the bike if they run the plate number?

KIC.. If you are venting the crankcase to atmosphere, yes cap the air box nipples. With the setup you found on your bike....it would have been venting crankcase out the cone filter too, causing the mess. Might as well remove the small hose into tee and cap it there so everything blows out the large hose wherever you point it. The drain hose is to drain accumulated oil from the airbox, so you are no longer needing it. Kevin... I think the object in the original 83-84? drain hose was an inline filter to prevent dirty air migrating back into airbox. The RSV has one on both drain hoses from the air plenums.

On a 1st gen (83-93) Venture the crankcase vent hose is connected to bottom of airbox other end is connected to middle of the oblong breather chamber directly below carbs at base of cylinders.

Do you have a link to the complete wiring diagram with the legend?