CaseyJ955

The price looks right. I wonder where they are made, the OEM slides are getting tough to find I hear. If all thats needed is diaphragms this would be another cheap route. Assuming the existing slide is serviceable. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281761118300?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT these are out of the UK, not Chinese made. I just installed a set on my Venture and so far so good, quality is decent and they got stateside pretty quick. Although I have yet to pile some miles on them they felt pretty nice.

My front calipers are early 2000s R6, different lines needed. My rear caliper is a Front Right off an 08-ish R6S. It was one that would allow me to bleed the brakes without pulling the caliper. I was able to use the OEM line there. I didnt worry much about the rear being braided but at some point I'll probably throw one on if I need to. My front brakes were a dumpster fire before all this so braided lines were a given there.

If your at elevation or ride at elevation that might require some rejetting, but probably not. CV carbs are pretty good at adapting to altitude. I agree with all of the above, stored with ethanol for any length of time can do bad things to carbs. Sounds like blocked jets, not so much incorrect jetting. I found out the hard way that to store one it should have a full tank of pure gasoline/no ethanol and a couple oz of Seafoam or Stabil run long enough to get through the carbs. When ethanol sits you get corn squeezings blocking everything up, if a Shotgun failed to work than those carbs are coming off. On the upside it's not a terrible job to do.

I would urge you to be careful not to traipse into the Chinese aftermarket, it's easy when we watch what we spend. Some of the Chinese rotors rust, not all but many. None of that stuff is as good as Yamaha OEM. I would imagine if you find something as good/better than OEM it will cost a chunk. If your rotors are still serviceable maybe you can reuse them andhave the calipers done by an independent, then get some EBC pads or something else that will improve brake performance. I've been going over options for brake pads and talking to others on the Vmax site to see if I want to run sintered HH pads, I guess they significantly improve brake performance. Something to think about anyway.

We've had a great week, and next week is nice too but this was my driveway this morning. The hills can be unpredictable this time of year.

69 Monterey, when a Mercury was a Mercury!! Sweet car. These calipers are no more complicated than an old school wheel cyl. A chunk of cast Fe with a pistons and seals. Rebuild or replace sort of rests on what the ID looks like after you clean it up. To just replace you could find the best prices on reman calipers and see what sounds best. Let us know what you find.

Thats awesome, congrats for her! Nothing like an old Rebel or Vstar to get started on. Pretty soon you'll be on the back of the Venture behind her.

It's strange to have a bike this old not need some brake help. I was not at all surprised to see that I had a few pistons sticking on my 89. It was cheaper to hang R6 calipers on it than rebuild the OEM calipers. Come to find out the R6 calipers are dragging a little so back off they come for a good internal cleaning and some new Volar HH pads, which I should have done before hanging them on the bike in the first place. Brake fluid is supposed to be changed/flushed about every 2 years, but I really doubt it gets done on most vehicles. Aside from DOT absorbing moisture from the atmosphere it breaks down from the heat and age leaving deposits and moisture down in the caliper bores causing the pistons to stick and sometimes seize altogether. There isnt any real force pulling the piston back after the brakes are released. At least with old school drum brakes you have the shoe springs pulling the shoes back to their resting position, forcing the piston back into the wheel cyl. With calipers there is no such spring, if the pistons are retracting as they should it's around 0.004" feeler gauge that can be slipped between the pad and rotor (IIRC). The easiest judge of that is when you release the brake the wheel should spin freely a few revolutions before slowing to a stop, it's normal to hear the pads contact the rotors ever so slightly during a free spin as long as it's not dragging on the wheel. The only thing allowing the piston to back up is the piston seal, it not quite an O ring but has a sort of lip or ridge that sort of pulls it back. When the brake is released there is only an absence of hydraulic pressure, no vacuum, so it wont take much muck in the caliper to interfere with correct operation of the caliper/correct brake pad wear. The pistons should come out so that you can clean between the piston and bore. If the moisture and deposits have pitted the ID of the bore you will be better off replacing the caliper. I'm pleased to hear that often a person can get away with disassembly, cleaning and reassembly without needing new seals. I'm hoping for such luck because I have never done that before.

BlueSKy is right. I used R6 calipers but I think the R1s are the same story. You will need brake lines when you do the R calipers. I think I got a pair of R6 calipers for $45 shipped and they had a bunch of SS line with them. As it happens now I'm going to remove those calipers and clean them out as I should have done before putting them on. Some of the Vmax guys like the Volar HH sintered pads so I'll give those a shot at the same time. The angle and position of the inlet where the banjo meets the caliper is different. I got my R6 calipers with some aftermarket braided lines on them and adapted those to work with the Venture by using a splitter off a Vmax and a homemade aluminum mounting plate. The OEM lines are a no go with the R calipers. The reason the pistons are difference sizes is to keep the brake pads wearing even. The further away from the inlet the piston is the slower it will react to brake actuation so they are a different DIA to compensate for that and keep the pad wearing nice and flat. Thats how it was explained to me anyway.

Usually it tops out around 90 for a couple weeks but rarely do we break 100. Most of the riding season is very pleasant. The older I get the less I like sweltering heat or extreme cold. If it gets 95 here I'll jump on the scoot and go over there and hog up all your nice weather. Our winters begin and end sporadically and at random times so I may be good to go to an October rally or I may be under 18" snow. Now that I'm home from work after 7 insanely nice days its cold and overcast today. Might snow in the upper elevations, I'm only at 3100' but my day rides get me over 6000'. Living in South Dakota the tables often turn, like today. I'm not as cocky as I was yesterday:snow: But all of next week... Actually I cant believe there is no Black Hills rally. The roads and scenery here guys/glas is really off the charts! Oh, I remember, I'm the ONLY ONE here!

Dont brake the break line

I have experienced high erratic idle with carbs way out of synch but 4500 is quite a reach. Throttle barrel and cables/linkage free, opens and snaps shut free and easy? Routing of throttle cable correct? Choke linkage operating properly. Air filter clean? Slides open and slide shut again. Not real fmiliar with that model, just trying to throw a bone from general experience until a real pro steps in.

Now we all have blood on our hands, we need to work together to get this cleaned up, get the body burried and never speak of this again!

Is this fall campout thing happening in 2017? Is it an open function? Im always trying to get the last days out of the season...

That looks fantastic. Sunny, green and rural, its perfect! If I were ankle deep in snow right now I would have to interpret this pic as a cruel form of gloating, but it was 79 yesterday in the hills so I will instead gloat right along with you:biker:

I guess we did jack this one . You police hijacking and Ill sort anyone that says " I seen", "irregardless" or "these ones".

Great looking bike! Theres something nice about a steed that can gobble up the miles, especially after you make it your own.

Maybe if it does it again do a key off/on, sounds like she probably was pissed about something. You have to buy them stuff now and again or face terrible tantrums.

When you get the slave off and broken down hit it with the stones before opening the rebuild kit, if the ID wont clean up with the stones you could still have a weeping slave cyl when its all done. I really wouldnt sweat the hoses if they work now they will almost certainly work when it goes back together and for the foreseeable future. I have cheated a couple times and wrapped 400 grit around my finger and wet sanded a very light crosshatch into the ID under the kitchen faucet just to break the glaze inside the bore. It often works where the stones fail, but not always. Unless the bike has been terribly neglected my guess it will be fine with a hone and seals. If you are bike camping with no cage/RV there is room to pitch a tent here, roughin' it style of course. I usually work the first several days a month, other than that my schedule is pretty open. Good luck on the rebuild!

I have an extra set of previously enjoyed Progressives a guy could have for little more than shipping. In my experience with other models there is only so much one can do with OEM springs, especially tired ones. I hope mine will soak up bumps like a CR250, but I would settle for a KX500. Really I need it to be sure footed in the twisties so I can scrub off the chicken strips. Im totally in denial about the Venture not being a modern sport tourer. Ill make make sure I post a full review of the oil and progressives in the MKI. I do like a soft ride as long as the bike remains compliant and competent. Counting the days:beer:

I noticed both the V4s start easier since installing COPs. I use a little choke if its nippy but during summer I dont use it. Is the bike stuck at work still with a no-start issue? Hows the battery?

It's not often I feel bad for having stunning sunny spring days in the hills. Everything is green, the scent of the pines, you've never seen a sky this blue... Oh, oops, thats probably not helping! Im working all this week so not only can I not ride but I cant even go home and see the bikes, I can hear others riding.

I did actually offer him $500 this morning, im just not comfortable with anything more for the very reasons you listed. I figure if nobody else takes it he may hit me back, Im good either way. Im usually peeking around for a parts bike on CL and there will be others.

That is exactly what I did. Unfortunately it does have that small range. As it was explained to me its easier on the fork seals and has longer service life. I figured its well worth a shot, I have to fess up to not always doing fork oil every 2 years so increasing service interval has value to me. I only tried it because someone with overwhelming credibility and experience endorsed it on the max and my experience there has been great. The combination of this oil and progressives worked so well on the max that I couldnt wait to try it on the Venture. PS/ATF is close to the recommended wt but im guessing as Venture factory springs wear, viscosity can be increased to compensate as happens on so many other models, at least to some.degree. Im not sure how well even slightly lighter oil would work on worn aged stock forks and springs.

As spoken above, buying it right is the key. The battery is flat and will need replacement. No service history so I'll need to do everything. I didnt check tire date but they have some wear. I didnt get good pics of the damaged plastics and I should have. It looks better in the pics than in person but it still isnt bad. I'm feeling cocky on the carbs, I did my vmax carbs with guidance on that forum and it runs too good for words, my Venture, just went through those and not ridden yet but it starts, idles and revs like a nee machine. Im going to take a swing at the carbs myself and update the ign sys as noted in this thread but I will still have to buy a battery, tires, fork bushings and seals which is about 150 before the labor which i will do myself. I have an extra set of progressives laying around too. The head bearings look bone dry so repacking at the least and replacement possible, thats a lot of labor. Also concerned with the 30 yr old brakes, it would be freaky if all they need is bleeding. I would probably play with it some and look for a buyer for it in hopes of turning a few bones while giving someone a fair deal but buyers here are not plentiful at all. I will make him another offer. I can come up from where I was but not sure I'm comfortable with $700 considering all the labor I will be doing to make it safe for a buyer to come from out of state and ride it home. Ill bump up my offer and hope that we can meet in the middle somewhere. What you all say makes sense. Thank you.