CaseyJ955

I heard from Danny this morning and he has only the older style plugs too. Sorry no luck yet. If your carbs are off can the plugs be reinstalled and the rack given some fuel to check for seal?

Nope, I was told either would work as long as synthetic and Import, I get that PS or ATF arr a hydraulic oil rather than a lube oil but I lack the knowledge to explain the difference in oil properties. I've never heard a difference or preference for either ATF or PS. I cant recall where I saw it but I thought normal wt fork oil for the Venture was 15-20 wt. Which would be consistent with most bikes I've changed fork oil on. I know that with other models I have worked with, including Vmax, the original fork springs lax up quite a bit and heavier oil can compensate to a degree. Heavier oil may be needed to get the mushyness and bottoming out under control. With the use of Progressives over tired OEM springs one should be able to use lighter oil and keep a composed ride. The Vmax is just over 600 lbs so no light weight, Im just over 200 lbs and rough roads and panick stops dont even begin to bottom out or unhinge her, even 2-up. Im not yet sure how the anti-dives will effect this but I see that a few folks here have disabled the anti-dives saying that with Progressives they are no longer necessary. Mine are still intact for now. It can approach 100 here but rarely gets hotter than that and the lighter oil in Maxine (Vmax) behaved like a champ with Progressives. I will put up a report next week on fork behavior as soon as I ride. Im expecting great things. I tend to tour off the beaten path and its not unusual to hit poor quality roads so I wanted to avoid heavy oils as much as possible. I forgot to add that on the vmax with Progressives and synthetic import PS fluid fork air pressure is not necessary or recomended by Progressive. Im not yet sure how that will go with the Venture but the Class system is still functional so we'll see if I need to add any air.

Couple others This pic shows the Pine Ridge fork seal

Hey, it worked.this time. It doesnt really capture the damaged plastics up top but there it is

I may have too. Id have to find a truck too. Do you figure im on the low side with my number? I figured with it not running and some of the valuable plastics being damaged 300-400 was a good range, I dont think it would take much to get her going, am afternoon with the carbs and fork seals and it might be an okay runner. Did I maybe lowball him?

Your quite welcome, I just hope he has or can get something and get you back on the road quickly.

I messaged him on the Vmax board http://www.vmaxforum.net/brc.jpg His name is Danny and hes widely respected as a carb guru. I hope he has bits for newer V4s. I believe he does plenty outside the Vmax world but not sure of his reach or sources but he knows his business for sure.

So it works as it should other than the slave weeping out. I would replace the slave, bleed it and make sure it functions as it should, then come on out here to the Black Hills. Enjoy the amazing roads before the bulk of the tourists arrive. HMU when you get out here if you like, Im just outside Rapid. Ive had older hoses work ok. Maybe technically it should be replaced but so shouldnt lots of other pieces of our bikes. When the hoses deteriorate from inside out the sloughing material can act as a check balve and impede flow or return, on brakes it can cause brake hang mimicking a sticky caliper. That is my opinion.

That works for me, I think I remember a post with this. Its the first thing I'll pick up if/when I end up doing this project.

I didnt realize they were tapered but I know who to ask. Edit: im waiting to hear back,

Seller is hanging onto $700. Im lingering at around $400 or less but I think its probably worth it to the right buyer. I let him know if he got it running it would help a lot, gave him my # incase he needs assist working on it, but it is still for sale in Western SD if anyone is looking for a project. I told him if it doesnt sell to call me and I would still take it at a lower price. Unfortunately old non-running Yamahas have all the market value of used dental floss around here. Id like to see him get his asking but I suspect Ill have another swing at this. I'll update in the future if I end up with it which is very possible. Thanks everyone for the input and wisdom. You guys rock!

Did they have that stuff in stock somewhere? Hard to beat those prices.

If you can gently pull the black plastic and blue fairing piece together the screw holes should line up if the fairing isnt to distorted. My bike is in very good cosmetic condition and it still has the broken hole on the black plastic you have there. I think its common. The bike I looked at this morning has both sides broken too.

The black piece and blue piece are in the correct order. There is a black rubber strip that goes along the bottom of the windshield, it holds on by buttons that slip into holes in the windshield, looks like it felldown at the end there. Mind did the same. I sorted it out when I had the glass off it. Thats a healthy crack on the fairing. Im not skilled in plastic repair but maybe a replacement would be in order. Now ya gotts get some SS screws for the master cyl lids, that would look slick. Also 3M makes a wonderful carnuba based Turd Polish, not sure you can just get it anywhere but I know HD dealers carry it.

. Im glad to know that, he had a couple.of the plugs out to replace, I put the old ones back in and fired it up. Ill have a look at the caps and wires. I cant find a trailer so if he accepts my offer Ill pull the carb rack, bring it home and return the following day to replace it and ride home...hopefully. Ill bring some extra HTN lead with me from bulk I have laying around, prolly much easier to replace that with the rack out of the way. Unknown if ethanol, he never put gas in it and its been sitting garaged for months. He only put a couple miles on it and put it up, said he wanted something louder and got a twin road star. Im sure the fuel is nasty but forgot to give it a whiff. If anyone in the Rapid City area has a trailor and an hour Im happy to pay for your time to get her moved from the valley to up Rimrock scenic/44 west. PM me (long shot I know)

I have not ridden the VR at all since fork rebuild, I did my Vmax (also a deceptively heavy turd) with the Synthetic Import PS and I really like it. I installed progressives at the same time too and it transformed ride quality and handling. It went from feeling like a Heritage Springer to a modern competent road bike. USE ONLY OEM SEALS/FORK PARTS!!!! I learned oil thing from Morley and others. I called him to clarify and the main points are it must be Synthetic, must be Import, must be ATF or PS fluid. From my own research it ranges from 7.5 - 10 wt so a little lighter than some fork oils. I was a little worried about bottoming out or it being to soft but the progressives have never bottomed out. Again this is on my Vmax. I like the ride so much that I did the same on the Venture and will be testing it out this week. I personally like a ride bordering on softer vs. Stiff/harsh for road going bikes, as long as its not mushy but I have never known Progressives to be mushy. I weigh 205-215 depending on my gluttony levels that month. The Synthetic is supposed to be really easy on the seals and last quite a lontime. I figure if I dont like it I can change it but when I hold the brake and rock the bike back/forth it feels really nice, good damping, no real bounce. Im not sure how lighter oil would work with tired OEM springs, esp for heavier riders but it sure seems to complement upgraded springs well. I have made LOTS of changes to my Venture since the last ride. New Elite3s, COPs, Ignitek TCI/MAP setup, All Balls neck bearings, R6 calipers/braided lines, delink brakes, carb float levels set, cleaned out and dialed/synched, iridium plugs, Fiamm horns, throttle cable cleaned/lubed, full fork rebuild with OEM seals/bushings/progressives and synthetic import PS fluid. Yea, im more than anxious to take her out! There are no words to capture the anticipation.

Are they stripped or what? I thought they were just a metal threaded plug with flat washers. If they sealed when removed they should seal now depending on what the washers are made out of. I would feel compeled to ask why they are unserviceable. Wish I had e tras to toss your way. Check with Morleys Muscle or Dannymax on the Vmax side if nobody here has, no doubt they will have some. Im over there daily so let me know if you'd like me to check P&A for ya.

Went to check it out, not quite as clean as I had hoped but still somewhere between fair and good. Crack in right main fairing and road rash on both side fairings, not terribly noticable. The cb and stereo inlay plastics arent great either. The rest of the body is good. The faux tank is torn from someone trying to remove it not knowing about the tab. It turns over and can be coaxed intto an idle, sort of, but wont tolerate muxh throttle. Maybe a shotgun but thinking to trailor it home and pull the carbs, set floats and clean them out good. I feel like it will run well. Im really sittng at the $300-400 range I think. I cant attach photo w phone, it has a rag zip tied to the fork for oil control, the brakes sre still.dry.

Here is a link I refered to while doing my progressives. I redid my forks inclusing bushings and use synthetic import PS fluid from Valvoline, its a trick I learned from the Vmax side of the world and works great. http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=001013&id=140 Edit: the link wants to go to the index, try a google "venturer progressive install". And it should take you directly there for gen1 intall walkthrough. I love their tech library, very nice collection of wisdom.

Darn, really glad you and yours are safe. I guess tis the season.

Western Union Splice! Got it, thank you. It surr makes it easier to pull the shrink tube over it. The fuse box idea mentioned by djh3 is really important. I have a pretty modified Suzuki Samurai and had to find a fusebox worthy of exposure to elements like water crossings, heat, anger and mud. I went with a marine fuse box and this is no place to cheap out because of the currents and cost of failure. For something small a good USA or Japan made one like this is nice and has a decent firm fitting lid. There are lots of good ones but I cant stress enough to get a quality box. Buying a $9 Chinese box and having it fall apart really sucks! ask me how I know. The Blue Sea stuff is nice but maybe bulky for a bike. I saw some really nice 1-in 4-out little ones but cant find now. http://m.ebay.com/itm/Fuse-Box-MOTORCYCLE-ATV-Marine-scooter-CUSTOM-Fuse-Box-Universal-4-fuse-custom-/231139455775?nav=SEARCH This is like the one im going to use for driving lights, GPS, charger and heated grips on the mighty Venture. Its nice if the lid fits over the input and output terminals to protect from shorting.

They have an aweful lot, and OEM too. I use boats.net and revzilla. I dont trust a shop to work on my cars/bikes with the love that I do, It sounds like they have a focus on the customer and thats cool. Good techs are fairly tough to find.

Thats a huge improvement. Honestly the metal flake fucia or purple would have been much better, this is why we should never listen to anyone that tries to talk sense into us, now that its boring silver where will the Hello Kitty stickers go? Ill bet she didnt think of that!

That is awesome. I vividly remember when you got here and very pleased you got to this point. We'll see this fine machine at one of the gatherings hopefuly. I thought the big rally was in WV, I guess I better look it up. Im hoping for at least a couple rallys this year. Mine is almost back on the road with my wish list complete and like you I'm really jazzed!

He told me I was the only one to respond, Ill still offer him a fair price as he seems like a straight up guy, but a fair price may be less than he wants. When I see it I will know if its a nice bike that needs a little love or if its a well used bike that needs lots and lots of love. Ill update Wednesday for sure, I wont be able to actually pick it up until Sunday because im still working. Unless its pristine I'm probably topping out at $500-600. More if its decent and not in a deep state of disrepair, less if its a straight up parts bike. Ill see if I cant get a better pic of it when I see it. Thanks again for the guidance.