luvmy40

Just to reinforce the already stated opinions. I had similar symptoms with my '81 Seca 750. t was a build up of rust debris from the tank in the fuel manifold at the #4 carb. Even with an inline fuel filter, enough sediment made it's way down the lien to eventually stop the last bowl in line from staying full at WOT.

Just wondering if Yamaha figured everyone would go to a dealership for new tires and made it SOP for the service department to lube the spline and fingers and not seeing a need to list that in the owners manual?

I missed this poll when it was started, but here's my $0.02 anyway. I have never bought a new vehicle. Ever. I look at "This Year's Models" as a reference to what I might buy in 2, 5, 10 or even 20 years. No, I would not have purchased a 2018 Venture new regardless of the power plant. It would have, however been at the top of the list for a "new" used bike few years down the road had it been powered by a liquid cooled V4. Right now it's a definite maybe for future consideration. I am more likely to pick up a lower mileage Gen 1 in the next few years than anything else.

Just to add my $0.02 here. I have no specific knowledge of the Lincoln Continental, but the OP's synopsis of what would happen with an open thermostat is dead wrong. A thermostat, stuck open, would not allow any coolant to flow to the heater core and the engine would take a very long time to come up to operating temperature. During winter weather, it might never get to 195deg. The heat issue could very well be a bad T-Stat. Then again, it could be the blend door actuator.

Do you have an MK1? Are your side bags are hinged at the bottom? My gen 1, MK1 bags never get water in them, no matter how hard it rains. My trunk, however gets water in it if if I ride through a fog bank. Take a look at the lock mechanism. Is there a seal where the cylinder comes through? You'll have to remove the latch assembly to check this.

The easiest way to check the coils is to test the resistance of the primary and secondary windings with an Ohm Meter. I don't have the specs at hand but they are posted in several threads and are in the service manual. If the coils Ohm out in spec, odds are they are fine, however there is always a chance that they will beak down under heat and load. They are 30+ years old, ya know. Without a high pot. tester, there's no sure way to test under load.

If I'm not mistaken, the '83 TCI is the red headed step child. The boost circuit 180 deg. out of phase as compared to the '84 and up units. or maybe the boost sensor just needs to be connected to the intake manifold rather than the #2 carburetor body. You should be able to test this easily. Disconnect the vacuum line to the boost sensor from the carb/manifold and hook up a hand vac pump(MiteyMite). At idle, pull a slight vacuum and see if the RPM increase. On the '83 they will, if the boost sensor is good. Not sure what the results will be with the '84 TCI.

I wonder what has changed? This is the fist time I've had my pictures rotated like that. I tied rotating them before tagging them and they still flip sideways. Oh well. Five gallons of faux Marzen Lager in the fermenting bucket! I now remember why I stopped using hop pellets and went exclusively to whole hops. The pellets clog up my kettle siphon. Maybe I'll remember that the next time I brew. Hopefully it won't be another 4 years.

I got the brew started and took some pictures for any who may be interested. Here's my mash tun where I steep the freshly crushed malt. This is the Hot Liquor Tank where the water for the mash process is heated. This is the Boil Kettle where the wort(pre fermentation beer) is boiled to reduce volume and raise the starting gravity. Here's a shot of the wort as it started to boil. I use two 230V immersion heaters to heat the mash water and boil the wort. Time to add the bittering hops!

As some of you know, I am a 2nd Amendment advocate, avid shooting sports enthusiast and Kydex Bender as well as an amateur motorcycle mechanic and Yamaha fanboise. I am also a very out of practice home brewer as well. Once upon a time, I brewed 5-10 gallons of beer every month. Then I started a business. I haven't brewed in 4 years. Today I broke out the mash tun, hot liquor tank and boil kettles, and cleaned and sanitized for hours in preparation of brewing my first 5 gallon batch in 4 years. I cheated. I bought an all grain "kit" from Grape and Granary rather than build my own recipe. I figured it was better to work back into brewing slowly rather than just dive in. I just pitched the Wyeast slant in a 1 liter starter in hopes of mashing in sometime Friday afternoon. This will be a Marzen Lager(Oktoberfest) recipe but fermented with Wyeast's California Ale yeast as I do not have a working lagering chamber at this time. I've had good results with similar recipes in the past. I'll post pics once I get things rolling.

The slides that Tiresmoking linked to are from Taiwan

I have sent questions to both the sellers of the air cut off diaphragms that I found and the slide/diaphragm that Tiresmoking linked to to ask what the country of origin is. Neither list it in the auction, so odds are they are Chinese. If they are Chinese, I would not take the chance at any price. The Chicom cam cover gaskets that "saved" me $20.00 over the OEM gaskets cost me double that in oil and labor to replace them with OEM parts when they leaked everywhere.

My wife and daughter have been researching Cobb, Hay Bale and Sand Bag construction. All of which may or may not meet code in your area. All of which are cheaper than traditional construction and can be made to be much more energy efficient than traditional construction. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cob_(material) http://cobworkshops.org/ http://www.housealive.org/ https://www.cobcottage.com/workshops There is a veritable plethora of websites and organizations dedicated to natural construction. My wife found one that would come to your build site and conduct a workshop, in essence providing free labor and instruction for the use of your construction site. The above links are just the first ones that came up in a web search.

There is also a set of K&L intake boots for $102.97 delivered. Also made in Japan. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Carb-Intake-Manifold-Boots-Yamaha-XVZ12-XVZ13-Venture-Royale-11-6234/292229117688?epid=238983321&hash=item440a3676f8%3Ag%3AEzEAAOSwcexZovxk%3Asc%3AUSPSFirstClass%2144429%21US%21-1&_sacat=0&_nkw=1984+yamaha+venture+carb&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.X1984+yamaha+venture+carb.TRS0

Right now there two sets of carbs on ebay for about $175.00 delivered. There is also a listing for after market slides with diaphragms for $82.50 ea. delivered. I would warn against using Chinese after market parts but these are from Japan, according to the seller and are shipped from Ohio. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-90-00-Virago-535-83-84-Venture-83-85-Royale-Carb-Slide-Diaphragm-007-775/312156628723?fits=Year%3A1984%7CMake%3AYamaha%7CModel%3AVenture&hash=item48adfc26f3%3Ag%3AtQcAAOSwDZJbHAeJ&_sacat=0&_nkw=1984+yamaha+venture+carb&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.X1984+yamaha+venture+carb.TRS0 I also found an after market enricher rebuild set for under $50.00. I haven't used any of these parts but I did lean a hard lesson about Chinese gaskets last year.

That's exactly what I saw at first glance. Upon closer inspection, it's obviously just perfect alignment with the darker shaded area of the tree line in the background. One of those eerie photographic coincidences.

We had a brand new compression tester come at Auto Zone on our lone a tool program so I borrowed it. It gave exactly the same results as my HF tester. 180-190psi I ordered an endoscope today to take a look at the pistons and valves. I should have it Friday.

I was under the impression that the V Max rear end was a direct swap. Or, that with a special tool the guts can be changed out to retain the Venture pumpkin. I'm sure someone who has done this chime in soon.

I wasn't getting any preignition running 87 octane but it did sound like a reasonable tactic to run a higher octane gasoline for reference. I had just filled up with 87 yesterday, so I added 3oz. of Lucas' octane booster today. I really don't know how much of a boost the Lucas is supposed to give but they claim "3 times more than any other octane booster."

Wrap a piece of 4-6oz. leather around the weight and use a pipe wrench.

Yes, my needles are shimmed with Skydoc's thinner shims. I have no idea how many tuns my pilot mix screws are turned out. I tuned to clean burn at 1000 rpm(on the dash tach)with the ColorTune. I will go to a higher octane next tank to see if it has any effect. As of now the bike is running great though I do need to either let it warm with no enrichment for about a minute or open the enricher just barely for 30 seconds or so on a cold start before she'll jump out of the hole. She'll start right up with out enrichment but just won't pull under load for a minute or so.

I've seen a few boast 40-42 Mpg. I've had one tank that hit 38 Mpg. I average 35 Mpg with a very similar riding profile to yours except I'm 5' 8" and 180lb. I don't see much variance in fuel economy whether I ride like it's a Gixxer or a Harley. I do see a decrease in economy when I'm loaded and two up.

Well, that's weird. This is the picture I see at the linked site.

I'm still curious as to what these vac lines are for and if they are original. My '83 standard only had one vac line from the boost sensor to the No.2 carb body and the four larger lines from the heads to the YICS chamber, now removed and capped. No Tees in any of them. The only Tee is the one in the breather hose that connects to the air box. Is this a Royale with cruise control? If so, are the CCs vacuum operated?

I just watched a youtube vid from Blockhead with a couple of the HD "Interns". They didn't have a lot to add but did verify that the liquid cooled V Twin engine in the new models is a completely new design and not the V Rod engine. They also stated that, while not given any concrete or exact numbers, the prices would be from "entry level" to "premium" on the various packages for each new model.