Rafterd

Mine are on all the time. Low or high beam.

Yep, it’s the drive pins on the drive shaft side of the rear wheel, where they slide into the rubber dampers. They need grease.

Maybe someone painted over it and it looks like a plug??

Most of the Harley slip ons are 1 1/2 inch. Yamaha are right at 1 3/4. The head pipe on Yamaha is 1 1/2 inch. Yamaha has a gasket between the muffler and head pipe that you won’t need, or use, with Harley slip ons. It doesn’t leak, so it doesn’t matter. Just FYI, the Harley slip ons are not quiet, but sound really good. Sounds like a V8 while idling. Hope this helps. If I remember correctly, someone here posted a video of what they sound like on here somewhere.

Before you take the switch apart, you can test it with an ohm meter, or volt meter, to see if it’s working. If it is, no need to take it apart.

There is a valve adjustment shim kit that someone here has that they loan out. Search it it’s here somewhere. Sync tool, I don’t know.

Yep.

A 96 Venture?? Hmmmm

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303257989658

Just a thought, do you have headsets? Or know someone who does? Just wondering if the speakers in the headsets quit too. If they do, I’m going with a bad amp. If they don’t, I’m still going with a bad amp.😀

I wouldn't think so. Personally, I wouldn’t even try. The engine is not that hard to pull.

Put a volt meter on the battery check battery voltage while static and also running around 2-3k rpm. You’ll have to guess. Sounds like maybe an over voltage as in bad regulator/rectifier putting out to much voltage? I’ve seen those put out 18vdc when they go bad. Other than that, a bad amp maybe? I don’t know.

I’ve heard guys here talk about hydrolock a few times. I’ve rebuilt literally 1000’s of motorcycle engines over the years. Not counting cars, lawnmowers, diesel trucks, etc. I’ve seen bent rods for whatever reason due to failure while running, but I’ve never saw a starter with enough power bend a rod. I’ve seen jet skis get water in the engine and hydrolock them. But never bent a rod. I’ve seen engines lock up from stuck float or carb flooding, but never a bent rod. I’m not saying it doesn’t happen, but with the frequency talked about here, just a little hard to swallow. You can get the bike, do a compression test on it. If it has a bent rod or broken timing chain, that will tell you. Check the crankcase for gas in the oil, overfull. I’m not trying to start a fight or argument, I just don’t see it.

It’s been over 100 degrees for several weeks in Texas, so I haven’t got to ride much. I took the ole girl out this morning. I was thinking it had been a month since I’ve ridden her, but upon reflection, closer to two months. she was not happy at all. Backfiring through the carbs, shotgunning out the exhaust, missing, carbs leaking, YIKES. took her down to the local gas station and filled her with fresh gas and a full can of Sea Foam. Rode about 10 miles, shes trying to settle down. Rode another 60 miles, idling fine, backfiring and exhaust popping has stopped, but still a slight miss every once in a while. Another 60 miles, she’s happy as can be. You roll into it around 70 and she just pulls all the way up to 100 no problems. Guess I better pay more attention to it in the future. Dodged that bullet.

Had several Gold Wings, Ventures, Harleys, just a nature of the beast.

1/4 can of Sea Foam won’t accomplish anything. Put 2 whole cans to a full tank. If that doesn’t work, carb rebuild is in order. FYI, you can run Sea Foam 50/50. Be very expensive, but you can.

As you said, I can’t imagine it wouldn’t do as good or better with that v-twin torque.

You say there’s no fire. So there’s no fire to the plugs? Or it just won’t fire while turning over? Take one of the plugs out and insert it in the cap and lay it on the engine head. Turn the engine over and look and see if it sparks. second, I doubt very seriously that engine will ever start without removing and cleaning the carburetors. That means you still have to drain the old fuel out. I thought there was a drain plug on the gen one fuel tank? Good luck.

The grease is not gonna change anything. But it will keep water and dirt out of the connector for future problems. So if you’ve already done that, I don’t think there’s any reason to do it again.

Take the front of the faring off, disconnect and reconnect all the plugs. I use Deoxit on the connectors instead of dielectric but whatever. That’ll probably take care of it. Oh I forgot, there are a couple under the seat too. Go ahead and do those too.

Try this.

I have a J&M and a Edsets. I prefer the speakers on the J&M but the mic and cord of the Edsets. But they both work about the same.

If you’ve rebuilt the master cylinder, and confident you did it right, then yes that’s about all that left. Not sure why. Ive rebuilt hundreds of them. Never saw one go bad. But that doesn’t mean this is a first.

Fantastic!! Bill

Sounds like the key switch needs replacing. Second problem the starter solenoid needs replaced.