Flyinfool

I do get cornfused pretty easy......... Between the equinoxes and solstices and then there is meteorological seasons and..... and... and....... It is way to soon to put my toys away.......................... I still have ingredients left, Snow does not store well over the summer, so I kind of have to use it all up................ Besides after all that emergency plumbing I had to do, the budget is a bit short to get all the proper supplies to store away the Wisconsin White Washer machine. You would not want it to get all rusted up and have the nozzles get stuck in just one position like maybe east south east...........

At that speed I should be able to mow my back yard in about 13.7 seconds. The turnarounds at the end may be tricky.

Multiple unrelated electrical gremlins popping up at the same time is almost always a bad ground somewhere. Clean the grounds even if they "look" clean.

Do like MiCarl said to try to break it free. I would think that the best way to clean them up, once they are free, is to do some slow speed practice in the friction zone. The oil being used could make a difference. I found that the Valvoline MC oil has almost zero ability to prevent corrosion. I had removed the valve covers while the engine was still warm from running and over night, indoors, the cam lobes were rusty by morning. I no longer run Valvoline. The rust showed me that it drains down so completely and quickly that there is nothing left to lubricate the parts at startup. You may have a similar issue with the oil draining back to completely and not trying to leave a film in place. Maybe switching to a different brand of oil will help to prevent this in the future?

For the duration of your trip I would just hot wire the ignition switch, then you can fix it right when you get home. You should be able to find the parts you need at any hardware store. Once you get home and the time to work on it you may be able disassemble the switch and clean up the contacts and then install a relay bypass kit so that this never happens again. You might not have to buy a new switch. Since your ignition and bags already use different keys, tyhat means that this has happened to this bike before and it got a new ignition switch at that time. With the relay bypass the ignition switch is no longer doing the heavy work so it will last nearly forever, there will be an easy to replace relay that is doing all of the work.

The job is more time consuming than difficult. You have to take a lot of stuff off to get at it. Go slow, take good notes, take lots of pictures so that you remember where everything goes back together. Keep screws for an item with the item so that you know which screws held it on, if all the screws that hold on a part are not the same make notes as to which go where.

So is there anyone in the country that still has an intact bracket sheet?

They also did a run with the Eluder. https://www.cycleworld.com/2018-yamaha-star-eluder-dyno-run#page-2 112 lb ft of torque is not a bad number either.

I personalty do not like hammering or using a torch around the flywheel. The flywheel contains ceramic magnets. Heat and shock are the 2 fastest ways to DEmagnatize them. If the magnets get weak it will reduce the power output of the stator, and weaken the trigger pulse to the ignition.

Green beer will be flowing tonight. Today is also my youngest daughters BD.

I got the Dano starter clutch in my bike to. For the flywheel bolt, if you do not have an impact driver to get the bolt off, there is a hex on the flywheel that you can put a big wrench on to hold it while you loosen the bolt, IIRC it is torqued to somewhere around 100 ft lbs so it will take some oompf to get it to break loose. Then comes the fun of getting the flywheel off of the crank. That stator does look a bit toasty, It is NOT supposed to be black. Even though it is still working it is not long for this world. For the screws that hold on the stator, they are put in with loctite, heat them up and hit with an impact driver with a good JIS bit. Have the cover on some rags so you do not scratch it up. There is a cooling kit for that bike where there is a hole in the center of the flywheel bolt and a bent piece of wire in that hole, it is to spray oil on the stator to help cool it. It does not look like you have that kit installed. You do want to find one to put in if you do not have it.

I have also seen a burnt out bulb blow fuses, when the filament breaks it can fall and cause a short inside of the bulb.

cowpuc must be busy making hot dogs to stock up for this summer.............. http://www.allsmileys.com/files/sweetim-emotions/6355.gif

Sounds like sticky throttle. When you rev it can you manually close the throttle and have the RPM drop?

Way back in post 1 you said that you took the carbs off the bike, if so then they need to be synced.

My guess is that not only would @cowpuc and Tippy and Tweeksis enjoy the heck out of that road, there is a good chance that they might even try to coast it down. (Less chance of running out of gas when coasting.)

First thing is to see if a cylinder is not running. With the bike cold, start the engine and monitor the exhaust pipes to see if one is not heating up as fast as the others. Careful they get to hot to touch pretty fast. Check to see if you have spark at each plug. There is a good chance that you have a plugged up fuel passage in one or more carbs from letting it sit. Give it a heavy dose of Seafoam to see if that will clean things up.

25 years ago today it was 23°F and sunny. Not to bad of weather.

It is not an odd numbered year yet......... I did run a test where I filled both bath tubs with water, all of the sinks in the house, and then pulled all plugs at the same tome and flushed both toilets to get the max possible water flow that my house can possibly generate and still no new water appeared in the hole.

Yippie, Today is the first day that there is no standing water in the second hole. It is still mud at the bottom but at least no standing water. This is progress. It also confirms that it is just ground draining and not another leak.

The first hole is about dry enough to do the gravel fill around the pipe. For now I will fill it full with the gravel so that I can safely walk over it. I will not do the cement until summer when I can have all of the windows open to air things out. Come summer I will have to dig out gravel to the depth that I am going to pour the concrete, I do have a place to put the gravel to good use. I am even going to drive a 60 mile round trip to get the correct gravel for the job. I have to be sure that this repair will outlive me. This is not something I EVER want to do again. The second hole is still very wet at its lowest point, but it is getting better every day.

I use those glasses for a lot of things. Mine has interchangeable lenses with magnification from 1.5X up to 10X. I have the 2x, 5x and 10x lenses.

I did not vote because the question does not say what state the bus is in. Just because a school bus stops does not mean that you have to stop. You only have to stop if the red lights are flashing on the bus. In the case of the link you posted, if the buses red lights are flashing, then all 4 lanes must stop. Around here, when the school buses are in town they only turn on the yellow hazard flashers while loading or unloading. I guess they figure that city kids know how to look for traffic? But you do not have to stop for these buses. I do slow down and pass with great care but do not stop. In Wisconsin the law says that on a divided highway the oncoming traffic does not have to stop, the state definition of a divided highway is if there is a median that has a height difference of more than 1.5 inches from the roadway. There is a 4 lane "divided highway near here that is always under controversy. It is raised an average of 1.4 inches. Now just how many people have eyes calibrated that good. The sheriff often will follow the school bus and loves handing out tickets on that road. They have now posted signage that states traffic in both directions must stop for flashing red school bus. On the other hand I have seen cars swerve around and pass a flashing red school bus on the RIGHT shoulder at near full highway speed. Fortunately the kids all had already stepped thru the bus door and out of the way.

Mine was always a bit sluggish when the air temp was below freezing, buy the time the the temp gauge made its first twitch off the bottom pin it was more than ready to go. Cold air is more dense so the mixture wants to be set slightly more rich. I would wait to tweak it until the temps more closely resemble your normal riding temps.

I did not realize it was that far, I would have guessed about a half mile. I measured it at 1.35 miles. I guess you better swim close to shore. That is at least a good warmup at the beginning of the workout. WAY back when I was on a swim team we used to do a 1 mile warmup session and then we started the workouts. Right now I would be fish food before I went a mile.