Flyinfool

Check that correct wire on the primary side is plugged into each coil and that each coil is to the correct spark plug.

Check for power at the fuse panel, you may have been lucky and had the ignition switch fail at home.

Done? What is this Done word that you speak of?????? :stirthepot:

When it comes to getting new tools, there is no such thing as overkill.......... Yes the torque spec is 100 ft lbs, but I still think the factory torques it to 1 million. That is also why it is so hard to get the flywheel off of the taper the first time. Any time after that is never an issue.

285 lb ft is pretty wimpy. You might be better off with a breaker bar. Mine is 500 and even that is wimpy. I had to use a breaker bar and a pipe with a big wrench on the hex of the flywheel.

Set your impact to maximum and make sure your compressor is reaching full pressure. If you can crank up the pressure in your compressor to 125.

You need a 3 leg puller, a 2 leg will not work. When you put the 3 bolts of the puller into the flywheel, do note tighten them with a wrench, just finger tight and fully bottomed in the hole. Make sure they are hardened bolts, not cheap ones. No one was joking when they said to have a soft place for the flywheel to land, like a basket of blankets, it literally lets go with a bang and it will go flying. Do not loose the key way. If it has never been off it is real tough the first time, the factory must torque that bolt to around a million ft lbs, the flywheel is on a taper. There are a few people that have got lucky and had it come off easy, others really had to wrestle with it. The starter clutch is bolted to the back of the flywheel. The stock starter clutch has 3 rollers to grip the 72 tooth gear, the @Dano mod has 18 rollers to do the gripping. Odds are that you will find cracked metal along with the worn out clutch parts, odds are also good the the 3 bolts that hold the starter clutch in are loose, even though they are installed with red loctite AND staked. The bearing surface of the 72 tooth gear will also have a lot of lines pressed into it from the clutch rollers. The 72 tooth gear just slips in from the back of the flywheel.

I do get cornfused pretty easy......... Between the equinoxes and solstices and then there is meteorological seasons and..... and... and....... It is way to soon to put my toys away.......................... I still have ingredients left, Snow does not store well over the summer, so I kind of have to use it all up................ Besides after all that emergency plumbing I had to do, the budget is a bit short to get all the proper supplies to store away the Wisconsin White Washer machine. You would not want it to get all rusted up and have the nozzles get stuck in just one position like maybe east south east...........

At that speed I should be able to mow my back yard in about 13.7 seconds. The turnarounds at the end may be tricky.

Multiple unrelated electrical gremlins popping up at the same time is almost always a bad ground somewhere. Clean the grounds even if they "look" clean.

Do like MiCarl said to try to break it free. I would think that the best way to clean them up, once they are free, is to do some slow speed practice in the friction zone. The oil being used could make a difference. I found that the Valvoline MC oil has almost zero ability to prevent corrosion. I had removed the valve covers while the engine was still warm from running and over night, indoors, the cam lobes were rusty by morning. I no longer run Valvoline. The rust showed me that it drains down so completely and quickly that there is nothing left to lubricate the parts at startup. You may have a similar issue with the oil draining back to completely and not trying to leave a film in place. Maybe switching to a different brand of oil will help to prevent this in the future?

For the duration of your trip I would just hot wire the ignition switch, then you can fix it right when you get home. You should be able to find the parts you need at any hardware store. Once you get home and the time to work on it you may be able disassemble the switch and clean up the contacts and then install a relay bypass kit so that this never happens again. You might not have to buy a new switch. Since your ignition and bags already use different keys, tyhat means that this has happened to this bike before and it got a new ignition switch at that time. With the relay bypass the ignition switch is no longer doing the heavy work so it will last nearly forever, there will be an easy to replace relay that is doing all of the work.

The job is more time consuming than difficult. You have to take a lot of stuff off to get at it. Go slow, take good notes, take lots of pictures so that you remember where everything goes back together. Keep screws for an item with the item so that you know which screws held it on, if all the screws that hold on a part are not the same make notes as to which go where.

So is there anyone in the country that still has an intact bracket sheet?

They also did a run with the Eluder. https://www.cycleworld.com/2018-yamaha-star-eluder-dyno-run#page-2 112 lb ft of torque is not a bad number either.

I personalty do not like hammering or using a torch around the flywheel. The flywheel contains ceramic magnets. Heat and shock are the 2 fastest ways to DEmagnatize them. If the magnets get weak it will reduce the power output of the stator, and weaken the trigger pulse to the ignition.

Green beer will be flowing tonight. Today is also my youngest daughters BD.

I got the Dano starter clutch in my bike to. For the flywheel bolt, if you do not have an impact driver to get the bolt off, there is a hex on the flywheel that you can put a big wrench on to hold it while you loosen the bolt, IIRC it is torqued to somewhere around 100 ft lbs so it will take some oompf to get it to break loose. Then comes the fun of getting the flywheel off of the crank. That stator does look a bit toasty, It is NOT supposed to be black. Even though it is still working it is not long for this world. For the screws that hold on the stator, they are put in with loctite, heat them up and hit with an impact driver with a good JIS bit. Have the cover on some rags so you do not scratch it up. There is a cooling kit for that bike where there is a hole in the center of the flywheel bolt and a bent piece of wire in that hole, it is to spray oil on the stator to help cool it. It does not look like you have that kit installed. You do want to find one to put in if you do not have it.

I have also seen a burnt out bulb blow fuses, when the filament breaks it can fall and cause a short inside of the bulb.

cowpuc must be busy making hot dogs to stock up for this summer.............. http://www.allsmileys.com/files/sweetim-emotions/6355.gif

Sounds like sticky throttle. When you rev it can you manually close the throttle and have the RPM drop?

Way back in post 1 you said that you took the carbs off the bike, if so then they need to be synced.

My guess is that not only would @cowpuc and Tippy and Tweeksis enjoy the heck out of that road, there is a good chance that they might even try to coast it down. (Less chance of running out of gas when coasting.)

First thing is to see if a cylinder is not running. With the bike cold, start the engine and monitor the exhaust pipes to see if one is not heating up as fast as the others. Careful they get to hot to touch pretty fast. Check to see if you have spark at each plug. There is a good chance that you have a plugged up fuel passage in one or more carbs from letting it sit. Give it a heavy dose of Seafoam to see if that will clean things up.

25 years ago today it was 23°F and sunny. Not to bad of weather.