Flyinfool

8 out of 10 times that someone asks you to hold something that is for sale, you will never see them again. If you are serious and want some one to hold something, you have to put money down. I have seen way to often that people will ask to hold a half dozen things while they decide which one they really want. All the other sellers are left out with nothing. I am not saying that you would do this, but as a seller it is a common thing to see. It is a cruel world, but money talks, everything else walks.

Much easier.

That is the main fuse I was referring to. There should be spares in a slot inside of that same holder.

I replaced my main fuse with a 40A Maxi Fuse. At least spares are easy to find should I ever need one.

Now stop that Puc, your gonna make me blush, then I may have to go hide in a snowbank, and you know who will get the over spray.......... That TCI looked like it had leaked some battery acid inside of it. There was about 2 square inches of board with the copper runs rotted away, I had to do a couple hours working under a magnifying glass to lay down wires to rebuild the damaged circuit traces. I do not have the technology to to any kind of in depth testing of the board other than to plug it into my bike and it ran badly on just the 2 left cylinders (Same thing GeoBob was getting on his bike). Put my TCI back in and bike ran smooth as silk again.

Was this the first start of the spring? Mine always smokes like crazy on the first start of the spring, then gets back to normal once it gets fully warmed up. The spark plug looks pretty good, A bit wet, I do not know if the wetness came from the removal or if there is oil getting in the cylinder. If it was coolant the plug would be super clean and look like new. The stuff on the magnet, is it chunks of metal or is it all ultra fine metallic dust? Any weird noises coming out of the left side of the motor, Stators have been known to come loose and rub on the flywheel, this would make metal shavings.

You may have popped the main fuse. It is located near the solenoid on the left side. there is a replaceable element in that fuse, the spare elements are in the main fuse housing. Hopefully the fuse is all that popped when the battery was backwards. On the solenoid are the 2 big fat wires and one small gauge wire, connect a jumper from that small wire to the battery negative that will engage the solenoid and the bike should turn over. This should work no matter what the key position or the condition of any fuses.

Stators are not a long life thing in these bikes. The "cooling kit" was a band aid to make it a bit less bad.

Those cracks are right where they all break. @Dano is a bit more but you will not have to do this ever again. All the parts to do it stock add up to close to $200 anyhow. I do not know what Dano is getting these days. If you look at the surface of the 72 tooth gear (It is still on the crank in your pics) that the clutch pawls grab, I bet it looks like a washboard.....

Last chance to pick this up....... http://www.armslist.com/posts/8141933/milwaukee-wisconsin-handguns-for-sale--magnum-reasearch-lone-eagle--7mm-08

8.8 is similar to SAE grade 5 bolts. 10.9 would be better, but there is a good chance these will work. once you tighten the puller, leave it tight, every time you come to check, tighten it some more, it may just pop overnight. You have to crank on it till you are sure it will break, then go a bit more, and more and,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

got a pipe wrench or a big adjustable wrench?

Both my work and home computers say the video can not be found.

1-1/4" open end wrench on the hex of the flywheel, handle of wrench on the foot peg to hold it.

I would think that most any 5/16, inline fuel filter would work just fine. like this one from NAPA.

Connect one lead of your voltmeter to the ignition fuse and the other lead to the battery negative. Turn on the ignition and you should have at least 12V. If not then the most likely spot is bad ignition switch. as was mentioned, you can disassemble the switch, clean the contacts to get it working again and then install a bypass to make sure it does not happen again.

And when bikes get old, tired and cranky after being ridden hard for all of its life, it is much easier (and less expensive) to trade them in on a newer model.

Gee thanks everyone. And Happy Birth day to you to Sky. I am sure glad that I survived thru yesterday. Its official, I am older than dirt. I was one of the engineers that help work on inventing and designing dirt....... :backinmyday:

Check that correct wire on the primary side is plugged into each coil and that each coil is to the correct spark plug.

Check for power at the fuse panel, you may have been lucky and had the ignition switch fail at home.

Done? What is this Done word that you speak of?????? :stirthepot:

When it comes to getting new tools, there is no such thing as overkill.......... Yes the torque spec is 100 ft lbs, but I still think the factory torques it to 1 million. That is also why it is so hard to get the flywheel off of the taper the first time. Any time after that is never an issue.

285 lb ft is pretty wimpy. You might be better off with a breaker bar. Mine is 500 and even that is wimpy. I had to use a breaker bar and a pipe with a big wrench on the hex of the flywheel.

Set your impact to maximum and make sure your compressor is reaching full pressure. If you can crank up the pressure in your compressor to 125.

You need a 3 leg puller, a 2 leg will not work. When you put the 3 bolts of the puller into the flywheel, do note tighten them with a wrench, just finger tight and fully bottomed in the hole. Make sure they are hardened bolts, not cheap ones. No one was joking when they said to have a soft place for the flywheel to land, like a basket of blankets, it literally lets go with a bang and it will go flying. Do not loose the key way. If it has never been off it is real tough the first time, the factory must torque that bolt to around a million ft lbs, the flywheel is on a taper. There are a few people that have got lucky and had it come off easy, others really had to wrestle with it. The starter clutch is bolted to the back of the flywheel. The stock starter clutch has 3 rollers to grip the 72 tooth gear, the @Dano mod has 18 rollers to do the gripping. Odds are that you will find cracked metal along with the worn out clutch parts, odds are also good the the 3 bolts that hold the starter clutch in are loose, even though they are installed with red loctite AND staked. The bearing surface of the 72 tooth gear will also have a lot of lines pressed into it from the clutch rollers. The 72 tooth gear just slips in from the back of the flywheel.