Flyinfool

Well tonight is a Packer game so while I may be in chat, I may also be slightly preoccupied. Unless it is a blowout good or bad. It is just hard to predict which Packer team is going to show up.........

At least they have had some time to straighten things out in Chicago after the fire. Enjoy your trip, I'm looking forward to the reports of your exploits.

FWIW Sylvania just lost a class action for false claims on the Silverstar and Silverstar Ultra bulbs. I am waiting for my check in the mail....... http://www.bigclassaction.com/settlement/30m-preliminary-settlement-approved-in-sylvania.php

First off there are no fiberglass panels on a first gen, they are all ABS plastic. This is actually a good thing, ABS is easier to repair than fiberglass. I have had great results using some ABS sheet from the hobby shop and scraps from where I work, to replace missing parts and putting it all together with pipe cement from the hardware store. If an area cracked once I put a piece of fiberglass cloth over the crack on the back side to reinforce the area. The cloth is applied using the same pipe cement. I have never had a repair fail.

:missingtooth:

As Yammer suggested, clean the bulb before installing. Just because you did not touch the bulb does not mean that a person packaging it at the factory did not get a finger on it. Even if all you have is a clean dry cloth to wipe it with it is still better than nothing. Ideal is some alcohol, even rubbing alcohol would help and it is cheap. You can go to the pharmacy section and get alcohol moistened wipes (these are a good thing to have in your first aid kit anyhow). The only thing that could cause a power surge is a RR that is getting ready to fail. Odds are that if was the RR letting a high voltage spike through you would also have other bulbs and/or fuses blown. Turning on a switch or a bad connection will not cause an increase in volts to blow a bulb. And as mentioned it is entirely possible that you got a brand new bad bulb. I have had 2 new bad halogen bulbs in my lifetime.

According to the ad, there are ten 7 watt LEDs per bulb. That means that each Bulb will pull 70 Watts! That is a LOT more than the halogens that are in there now. Most likely the halogens are either 35 or 50 watt each. Between the high power draw and the likely beam focus issues, I would find something else.

No basement runs tonight. But then no me either. IF I get on tonight it will not be till nearly 10pm when I get home.

I'm not sure, but this thing might even almost keep up with a 1st gen.....

WOW You almost paid for a new engine with all of the parts you tried.

What time did you check? I was in there from 7 - 10 pm central.

If you do wire in an external flasher, you will also loose the self canceling feature since that is also inside of that same Flasher/Start relay module. I have thought of trying to disassemble an OEM module to see if it possible to retain the self cancel, but wire in an electronic flasher that will flash correctly regardless of load. But I need to find a OEM flasher with a bad start relay, I hate to chop up a good one.

Your link does not work. The LED bulbs are rated at 1000 Lumen. A Sylvania H3 Halogen bulb is rated at 1520 lumen. Your reflector is designed to work with a halogen. The LED creates light over a much bigger area that will not be properly focused in you housing and the LED has only 2/3 the light output. Many people are fooled by the bluer color into thinking they can see better. All of the H3 LEDs that I have been able to find have had a disclaimer in the fine print that the H3 LEDs are for show only, and will not illuminate a dark road. Now on the other hand, there are LEDs that are plenty bright to use for road illumination. When these are put into a reflector and lens that are specifically designed for that LED, they are great. You also have to watch the power ratings of some of the really bright LEDs, I have seen some LEDs that will draw more power than the halogen they are replacing.

:sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: :sign yeah that:

When the gas hits the bottom of the filler neck the tank is full. That little bit that you get by filling the neck to the top and then watching it slowly go down is filling in some of the air space that is designed into the tank. If you were to fill it all of the way up it would dump some of the gas on the ground as the cool gas heats up and expands. There are some people that punch holes around the top of the filler neck so that they can fill every last drop. but you can only do that IF you going out for a long ride. If you fill it and let it sit, it will just leak out.

Hey Bronco; You come up here and not only will I help you sync the carbs, I'll buy the first round of good Wisconsin Ice cream. We know our ice cream here in the Dairy Land state. Could even be a rootbeer float.......

There is a rebuild kit available for the clutch slave. There also seems to only be about a 50% success rate of rebuilds. There is not a big difference in cost between a new slave and the rebuild kit. Point is you are better off just getting a new slave right off the bat.

Mama slept right threw chat last night....... Maybe I need to charge her battery toooo......

Nice bike, great color. Hey, 1st gens have cassette decks too. And we also always wait at the next ice cream stand for you to catch up.....

:rotf: That was just Sparktacular......

You should not have to keep the bike on a trickle charger. A trickle charger will damage your battery over time. If anything, you want to get a battery maintainer, but that is only needed for long term storage. My bike can sit for 3 months at a time in sub zero temps, buried in snow, and still start fine. If yours can not, then you have something hooked up that is drawing power even when the bike is shut off, or you have a weak battery. Most battery stores will load test your battery for free. As far as getting a HO stator, IF you do get a HO stator then you also need to get a HO regulator / rectifier to go with it. From what I have read, the HO parts, especially the stator, do not last as long as OEM. Now if I could just find someone that would make a RR with a switching type regulator, then we would have a near bullet proof charging system. Expensive and big, but would be great.

Well then its back to plan B or is it BB......... Even if they did make someone at the factory taste it things that taste good to us, some animals would not touch, and just look at some of the things that animals do eat.

Brings back memories....... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=710735&postcount=1

Today was the first I heard that ward had enough weed in him to have significantly impaired judgement. That really changes things.

Now that is punny.......