Flyinfool

Looks like fun. How fast can you hit the kill switch if/when it goes under? Sounds like a serious case of hydro lock coming soon.

You need to go have a chat with a fiduciary. That is someone that does not sell anything but financial info to help determine your goals and current risk factors and help you create a plan to reach those goals. You can then go shopping for the places to put your money armed with some unbiased information. If the person you are talking to tries to sell you any stock annuity or any other financial thing, then you are with a salesman, and not a fiduciary regardless of what the sign on the door or their business card says.

It was working earlier. Looks like it is a problem on their end that they might know about.

The RLU (Reserve Lighting Unit) is a module under the dash, about the size of a pack of cigarets. The job of the RLU is to monitor the headlight. IF the head light burn out while riding it automatically switches to the other beam so that it does not get suddenly dark. If you have the low beam on and it burns out it will switch to HI beam. OR if you have Hi beam on it will switch to low. When activated it will also turn on the white "Headlamp" indicator on the dash. The RLU does not light the red warning on the dash. If you changed to a lower power bulb you may need to jumper the reed switches that monitor for a burned out bulb.

That message is bright as the sun on some new fallen SNOW. Actually it would be well camouflaged on some nice fresh SNOW. Maybe I should see about getting that message buried in some fresh new SNOW. Did you know I like SNOW!!!!

We did let one sneak in for a little while this year.

It is hard to tell in the pic, but that wire fro 10:00 to 11:00 in that pic sure looks like it is scraped. It is not just if a wire is cut, if there is any damage the reduces the cross section of the wire, then there is a good chance it will burn out soon.

After talking on the phone it was determined that the key was not in the slot on the flywheel when he torqued the bolt. This left the flywheel sticking out to far and caused the damage to the stator and its screws. When he went to start the bike the flywheel spun on the shaft until the key fell into the slot, that is what caused to bolt to be loose and falling out on its own. With the flywheel loose there was enough free play to let the flywheel rock back and forth to shear the key. It looks like he might be lucky with the stator, It looks like some insulation was scraped off the windings but that the conductors may not be damaged. He will look closer to verify. If it is just the insulation scraped off it can be repaired with a few coats of varnish and a smear of epoxy. Either way those stator screws will be a bear to get out.

Some dealers will do a shim exchange. Once you know the needed shims you can order them online. Ebay? I do not know what all would be involved to get hold of one of the US shim kits that are floating around. That ay you have all the shims right there, makes the job much easier.

Once you find the correct length bolt, I had to start the bolt thru the nut welded to the frame then get everything started on the end of the bolt before I ran it all the way in. If you start with the bolt all the way in it will be close enough to the swing arm that you will not be able get the nut started. If you use anything shorter, the bolt will not be long enough to reach thru the nut. Its tight in there. I do not remember which side it was but I think I had to cut a bit off the end of one of the new bolts. Since these are the bolts that will take most of the acceleration and braking loads, get high strength bolts, either Class 12.9 or 10.9. I would not use Class 8.8 or ungraded or stainless steel.

I was avoiding posting to this since I have never actually made it to an international. But then I thought that my reasons for not making it to one may have some slight merit. I really wanted to make it to Galina since it was only 180 miles from home, but the same issues still crept in. First is the travel, My marshmallow butt is only good for a max of 450 miles or 8 hours in a day. This means that I could be looking at several days travel each way. The rally is always during the week, this means that the whole rally must be accounted for with vacation days, I only have 5 a year available. There is the actual costs, between the registration, the room or campground fees, eating out, gas, etc. it is just to much for my budget. I really do not need for the rally to give away gifts or prizes or tee shirts or patches or much of anything else, just the bunch of happy smiling faces, and meeting new faces, is all I would really need.

Thank You for your service so that we can remain free. Keep your head up but remember to duck.

What does your meter read with the leads not connected to anything, that is the reading you should have for the last part of the test. Your meter may display differently than the one in the article you used. Also do a test with the meter set to the highest ohms Ω scale, test from any one of the 3 stator wires to a good engine ground. The reading should be the same as it is with the leads connected to nothing. This should be done with the key and engine off and the stator unplugged from the RR.

As long as the dog can still find her way back to the house when I call the grass is fine..... I think it was a clutch malfunction, once engaged it just wanted to stay there. Yea that it, thats my story and I'm sticking to it.... Funny you bring this up, we were just talking this week about going to the airport and renting an airplane to see if I can fly it........ Now that you mentioned it, we did go past a Dairy Queen, But I was distracted by the deer. Man are my skills rusty.

Their website is still up but the store is not. That Vid was from 2008 I wonder if they are still around?

Roundup first, then the flame thrower. This is the one I use, it feels good watching it turn to ash. http://www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-with-push-button-igniter-91037.html

That does look like one crispy critter, at least around the edges. Watch out for clearance with a taller head screw. It is tight in there. The screws are put in with Loctite, heating the assembly up will help it to loosen, Putting it on a pile of rags for protection and using an impact driver also helps to break the screws loose.

Oopie.....

This morning there still seems to be remnants of that goofy grin on my puss. This weekend I may have to start putting the bike back together so I can ride it with out coming home with a baked ham..... Yes @cowpuc we do White Tail around these parts. That was a real big boy. I'm hoping I do not see him during hunting season, he will be very expensive to get up on the wall......... ........not to mention that the better half is dreading the day I get a real wall hanger......

No time for pics, I was hanging on for dear life trying to get the beast to stop............Really......... I wish I did have video running I saw a monster buck as I went around a curve. Got a real close look at him from about 10 feet. Brow tines were up about 10-12 inches.

Now I see why you have to ride like that. you use your boot for a brakepad.......Kind of like Fred and Barney

Yup I was bad. But it had to be done. The lawn has not been cut for 2 months. I have to move the bike out of the shed to get the lawn mower out. In order to get the bike back into the shed it has to go up a 3" curb. Well I know there ain't no way in "H E double hockey sticks" that I can push it up that curb. This means that I have to start the bike to drive it up the curb. Well the bike has been sitting since last October, still has a full tank of last years gas, and not even good gas. Set the choke, turned on the key and had lots of clicking that then quit rather abruptly, not the taper off that I am used to. so I turned off the key, turned the key back on and more clicking that slowed to a stop like normal. I guess all of the gas must have evaporated out of the carbs. Cycled the key once more for good measure. this time hit the start button and it was instantly purring like a content kitten. So I let it warm up for a bit, and to give the oil some time to circulate everywhere. Then I climbed on, I got old and fat over the winter with being a couch potato for 10 months nursing this heart crap, it was a bit tricky getting my big foot over the top. Then I pulled in the clutch, raised the stand, dropped it into first gear and started to slowly pull forward, Then it happened. We have all done it. The rear wheel slipped on the grass and kicked out to the right side. It kicked out so fast that the bike was no longer pointed at the door to the shed, and I was going to fast to stop. Next thing I knew I shot past the side of the shed, across the lawn, and out into the road. It took me 32 miles to get that thing pointed at the shed door and to get it to stop from that initial burst of speed. And now I have this stupid grin on my puss that just wont seem to go away.:big-grin-emoticon::big-grin-emoticon:

The venture line backrest is not intended for use with a passenger, because of the Knee/inner thigh issues. When I was looking for a rest I was about to pull the trigger on a HD rest and bracket and then fab up a bracket to mount it. but then my Ventureline one became available. To my knowledge, there has never been any person on the back seat of my Venture, so the Ventureline was fine

There should be infinite ohms from the stator wires to ground, if your continuity tester is going off then you have a coil shorted to ground. It is not terribly uncommon to have a stator and a RR go out very close to each other. A bad stator can take out a RR and a bad RR can take out a stator, not always but it is possible.

This would tell me the battery is bad. A fresh charged battery will not drop to 10V with the bike running even if the charging system is completely dead. I'm betting that if you fully charge the battery and take it in for a load test it will fail. You seem to be the lucky owner of a fairly new bad battery. It is also possible that in addition to a bad battery you have some other electrical gremlin hiding in there. But all of the electrical tests require a good battery, so start there with a good charge and a load test. Charge the battery with the big charger and then put it on the trickle overnight to top it off. then take it in for the load test.