Flyinfool

To say that he bought it with the carbs just having been done but now it does not run right and given reason is bad gas tells me it has been sitting and not stored properly and carbs need to be done again. I also am not sure what the oil and dope are? It may have been worth the 6900 he paid 2 years ago when the tires were fresh and it was running good, but now needs work and is 2 years older and is not worth what he paid. Now that the ebay community has told him that it is worth 3600 might be the time to contact him to make a deal.

OK have to ask the obvious questions. When you turn the handle is it spinning in the hole? Does the key turn in the lock? Does the key even go into the lock?

I guess in about an hour this guy will find out that it don't always work that you can buy a vehicle, drive it for 2 years and expect to get back what you paid. IF that were a factory Yamaha trike, I would think that it would have complemented the lines of the bike at least a little bit and not just be a big square block. I think @Prairiehammer knows more about first gen models than anyone.

I guess a false alarm is better than a real one. So what freebies is the hotel giving out for your inconvenience...............?

Puc, You win already. Stop finding new ways to abuse yourself......... You get well and we can find lots of ways to at least verbally abuse you. Besides you still need to make a trip over here some time to see some toys fly. Unfortunately I know what a toll all this med stuff can have on a person, both physically and mentally. Oh, and tell Tippy thanks for being downright cantankerous...... Prayers are out for both you and your buddy.

Also make sure you are using the correct feelers. That intake that is at "0.004mm", there is no such thing as a feeler that thin. 0.004mm is equal to 0.00015 inch are you sure that you did not use a 0.004 inch feeler for that one? 0.004 inch is .10mm which would make more sense. As mentioned the valve clearance gets tighter as things wear, counterintuitive but that is how it works. If the clearance gets down to zero you will burn up that valve because it does not close and it is while it is in contact with the seat that it can transfer its heat to the head for cooling. Usually, it is the exhaust valves that wear the fastest. When I did mine at 50K there were 2 exhaust valves at 0.001 inch (0.02mm) so they were right on the edge of dying. I set all of my valves to the high side of the range to give the most room for future wear. Depending on the shims you have available, you may have to settle for anywhere in the range.

Is this the one you are thinking of? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?77042-MORE-lights

Royal Star Tour Deluxe. It is kind of like a stripped down RSV.

Since this post is from back in '09, a LOT has changed in the world of LEDs in the last 7 years. Most of what is mentioned above is now obsolete.

Just ride on the edges from now on they still look like new. It is only the middle that is worn out.

You want a launch ramp......... https://youtu.be/pCzfTiIp97Y

I do not have the 4 inch long OEM spacer The spacer I am referring to is item 28,60 and its O-ring Unfortunately you can not easily raise the tubes in the clamps. To do that you would have to permanently get rid of the CLASS or air system for the front and seal (weld?) the air holes in the tubes closed. Then you could remove the air collars (item 68, 69 and 74 in above pic) and be able to slide the tubes up in the clamps, and i don't remember if there is even room to do that before the tubes would hit the hit the handle bars.

The turn signal part might be close enough to a 2nd gen to get some clues from that wiring diagram. Just a WAG here.

OK, So I got my progressives installed and they are way better than the worn out stock springs. I used the full 1 inch plastic spacers, and the the OEM aluminum spacer with the O-ring on it. The front of the bike is now about 1.5 inches higher than it was before with zero air in the front. The biggest issue I have now is low speed handling, trying to ride at a walking speed is almost impossible for me now, With the old saggy springs I could ride to a stop and go and not have to put my feet down. I cave tried every combination of how much rear brake and clutch feathering to try to stabilize but to no avail. The bike just now feels really top heavy. I have almost dropped it twice coming to a stop. I am wondering if I take out some or most of the spacer, will that lower the front end and give me back some of my low speed handling. Kind of like many seem to do with the 2nd gens by going with a smaller front tire or sliding the forks up in the tree. I just have never played with bike suspension so I do not know what changes will have what effect. I don't want to fix the low and create a high speed issue.

I'll take a good old fashion northern blizzard over that heat nonsense any day. I can dress for a blizzard and spend the day outside and be safe and comfortable, that heat is just plain deadly.

If the blower is that good at moving dust, hit the car with the blower and that dust should blow right off.

Whew, I thought I was the only one that was clueless and needed to test stuff.......................

I went to do a test in the testing area today. I noticed that there were no other posts in the testing area. Was this simply cleared or do things self clear after a fixed time? Is this something new?

Unfortunately, if a thief wants it, they will take it, and there really is nothing you can do to stop them short of sitting in the yard with a shotgun. The best to hope for is that the neighbors trailer looks to be an easier target than yours. It also helps to leave the trailer doors unlocked and nothing worth stealing inside. This gives them much less incentive to steal it just to see what is worth locking up inside it. So far I have found my trailer to be sitting open twice. Someone was disappointed that they went thru the effort and risk to open it for no gain. Because it was unlocked they did not have to do any damage to become disappointed. No it did not open itself. And it was not worth their while to steal the 2 bungee cords that hold my cooler down or the side stand plates that I give away for free at events.

I tried last year but it did not work out. So I am going to try again this year. The Harley museum has a restaurant on site for the FOOD part. then there are tours available for the museum. If it is something we might want to make a day of, there are packages that include factory tours of some other nearby businesses, Like Palmeros Pizza, with free samples, A distillery, several local breweries, Miller park tours to parts of the stadium that most people would never see. and a bunch of other possibilities. If the timing is right there are even tours of the HD plant. So is there enough interest for me to look into this any farther? Many of the better deals and discounts start with 15 people. How much fun would it be to fill a Harley parking lot with Yamahas.............

If you need to get creative and can not find any lockable storage. You could fold it all up just right, put it in a Zip Lock, and then mount the license plate over it. Yes you will need a screwdriver to retrieve it for a LEO. But needing a tool to get to it is the next best thing to needing a key to get to it. Just be sure to always have the right screwdriver in the bikes tool kit. You could even get fancy and mount the plate using security screws that need a special driver to get out.

Glad you got it, I would find something that will load it to near capacity like a space heater or small window air conditioner, and test it out at home before relying on it. That was actually my first impression also. But then I looked at where Greg is located and translated the English to American and all was good.............

IIRC Barnett offers heavy duty and extra heavy duty springs. You may just need the heavier spring set. Of course make sure that hydraulic side is working correctly first. When was the last time you changed the clutch and break fluid? Old fluid can also cause the clutch to not work correctly.

Based on the wiring diagram, there are 3 yellows because it don't matter. The red and the black do matter a lot. Suzuki_GS750.pdf

I always hate making do unless there is no other option. But this is a good option in a pinch. I bought the set from HF for $12 with a 20% off coupon. Now I have all the sizes so I can speed up the jobs by using an air ratchet on hex drive screws. http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38-and-12-drive-metric-hex-bit-socket-set-67880.html