Flyinfool

That aint greasy, that's rust preventative................... AND and it is slippery so it slides through the air faster............yea thats it..............

Unfortunately I do know that it is California, all that emissions crap is always in my way and I am not sure how to get rid of it properly. I'll bet it don't even work anymore. I did not know it was Cali when I bought it, I found out the first time I went to sync the carbs, and have been pissing and moaning about it ever since. There are vacuum lines everywhere and canisters and crap and it is all in the way..............

And from the bike that most thought did not exist. My 88 standard. I'll have you know that I had to create a clean spot to get that pic............ I sure hope I did not clean off any of the dirt that was holding the bike together.............

You have to take off either the water pump or the thermostat housing to get that elbow off. It kind of depends on what other stuff you might want to do "While you are in there". If you take off the water pump, I would put in new seals while it is off. If you go for the thermostat housing, I would consider putting in a 4 brush starter or doing the ground mod on your existing starter, and/or heavier starting cables, and at a minimum, new seals in the thermostat housing and the drain valve. On mine I went the thermostat side since I was having the slow hot start issue and needed to get the starter out anyhow. The thermostat has to come out to get the starter out.

Well since you need/want a buzz bomb, there is this one http://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-matte-clear.html. It is still a 2 part matte clear but in a spray can. Once you mix it you have to use it all as it will harden in the can in about 48 hours. I have not used it but do know others that have used the gloss versions on model aircraft and been happy with the results.

OK, just so that @cowpuc can finally stop counting, here are the few pics that I did take and a short vid from the Saturday ride. The beginnings of the campfire Views around the camp area. Poor Moe and Curly sure looked lonely trying to find ol Puc and the famous Tippy, and their best friend Tweeks. A short Ride Vid. The audio is mostly the AC in my truck with the GPS and the stereo in the background. OK, So I never claimed to be any good at pics............... And even worse at video.............

I have a hunting rifle that I refinished the stock with a flat 2K automotive clear. It has held up great to all of the beating that a gun takes going thru dense woods with out a mark of any kind. It also stands up to all of the chemicals used in the maintenance of a rifle. I found it very easy to work with. It only took 3 coats of the clear over bare wood to get to what would have been a mirror finish if I had used gloss clear. If you want I can look and see if I still have the old dried out cans of flat clear to see exactly which brand and formulation I used.

I just found out that Erika suffered an injury while there. She ended up pulling something in her side, it was from too much laughing........................

I have seen a system that was actual AC that mounted on the back seat and had hoses connected to blow the cold air thru a special vest. http://entrosys.com/

To bad you missed it this weekend. You could have jumped onto the Venture and had a guided tour around some of the best riding in Wisconsin at Orlins MD in Veroqua WI. Not to mention meeting a bunch of us trouble makers and even foced to have some really good icecream and pizza, and chicken and and and .......

Thank you Orlin, we had a blast. You and your family are wonderful hosts. Even though Erika did not talk much she still had fun. I do have a few pics and some ride video that I need to figure out how to prep for uploading.

If you are that worried about the lose of value due to a "potential crash" then you should not take either one and sell them both. The crash scenario would not even enter into my thought process. If the 2 of you plan to ride together then you have already answered your question. Gotta keep Mama happy.

Just don't yank it by the connector, pull on just the wires.

Check your rear brake pads, the fluid level will also go down as the pads wear and the pistons move farther out. Since you are only finding where the brake fluid goes now, it might just be time for a fluid flush to get new fluid in there. The brake and clutch fluid should be changed at least every 2 years. Oh yea, good thing you did not top it off with antifreeze..............

Well Puc at least you are hitting 50% in your delusional state. I will give you that you are taller than me..... I do have the 12.5W oil in there.

Double check all of your crimps to be sure they are good. Also double check the grounds.

Where do I get me one of those daddies????

Good Luck!

I never said it was easy to get it back in there with that much preload. Good thing I am an old grey fat man............... Tonnage rules............ OK, so from the combination of all the advice above I will start by removing the plastic spacer and leave in the factory aluminum one with the O-ring. I will try this configuration for a while to see how it works. This should drop the front end to almost the height that it was before. this way I can always add more spacer back in if needed. I do have the anti dive still hooked up and will keep it for now. If I like the handling I will dig back in and try with the AD disconnected. I may compromise and try the 10 second relay idea.

Puc I sure hope you studied for your tests today. Watch out for them docs they can do trick questions in these tests and end up finding completely unrelated stuff they weren't even looking for and you never studied for. GOOD LUCK!!

If you buy your gaskets and parts from Skydoc_17 he has a loaner shim kit. It is so much easier to have a kit handy while doing the job.

This is the one I have that does both isolation and 5 to 4 wire conversion. At $19.06 it is not that much more than the non isolating one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CURT-56187-3-wire-to-2-wire-System-Tail-Light-Converter-/311602331401?hash=item488cf23f09

The one that Yamaglr posted above is an example of the non isolating non powered type. Yest it would be easiest to hook up because you just add a 5 pin connector that matches your bike to the "car" side and the other side goes to the 4 pin connector on the trailer. With that said, I would also agree with M61A1MECH that it is much better to use a powered isolator to run the trailer lights. Another important feature to look for is that the controller that you get is compatible with BOTH incandescent and LED lights. The HF trailer that you have comes with incandescent lights, once you see how weak they are in the daylight you may want to upgrade to brighter LED lights at some point. The LED conversion will also draw a lot less amps than the stock incandescent will, your bikes charging system will appreciate that. There are still a lot of converters out on the market that have old enough technology in them that they will not work with LED. And there are some that can not handle the amp draw of incandescent. Of course the other option is to rewire the trailer to be a 5 wire trailer. That is not difficult or expensive to do either. Total cost will be close to a wash regardless of which way you go.

Could that be considered a theft deterrent?

Well then I must be a wimp, cuz I refuse to get old.