iphlue

Finally got the CE605 installed last weekend an been riding it to work finally the last two days. The CE605 has made a BIG difference in voltage readings. I have NO trouble getting the expected 14.4 volts at almost any rpm but idle. Even then its almost 13 volts and comes up quick to 14 volts @ 800 rpm. So, the wanna-be r/r from amazon that is NOT a true Shindengen just doesn't cut it. I'm very happy with these readings and are what I expected in the first place. I had a hell of a time figuring out where to mount this thing. Finally designed a bracket to take advantage of the extra rear footpeg bolt hole. Here's a few shots of the prototype bracket. I'll get it powder coated black soon after I make a version two that will hide the bolts.

Confirms my suspicions. My tach suddenly is very slow to the point of sticking. It's pretty cold out as well. Worked just fine last week. Oh joy! Another thing to fix. :-\

Mike, I am somewhat asking if anyone thinks these readings seem ok, but more so hoping to see what voltages anyone with an actual series regulator are getting. Everything in the charging system is brand new including the battery. New stator, and a suspicious new regulator as mentioned. The link I posted earlier shows a guy testing and logging data. His data shows DC voltages lower than one would expect but his system seems to be doing ok. It's an interesting read. I have ordered the CE605 from Jack at roadstercycle.com and it should be here in a couple days. I will report what the new voltages are with that regulator soon. I highly suspect the voltage will come up to expected 14.5 or at least closer to it. Jack was very helpful with questions and suggested I should have at least 16 volts increase at each 1000 rpm coming directly from stator. (AC voltages) I retested and got the following: 1000 rpm 24.7 VAC 2000 rpm 44.6 VAC 3000 rpm 67.7 VAC 4000 rpm 91.7 VAC 5000 rpm 113.7 VAC 6000 rpm 139.5 VAC So I am at better than 16 volts increase. Roughly 20-24 volts increase per 1000 rpm which implies a good stator. I took these readings with the regulator unplugged straight from the stator leads. Rick, thanks for the PDF. Looks very interesting. I glanced through about half of it so far and will have time soon to thoroughly go over it better. Too many irons in the fire at the moment, but much appreciated. I'll get back with results soon. I wanted to at least touch base this morning while I have a little bit of time. Thanks for the input guys!

I think too that I was hoping to hear from those that have installed a series style r/r and what voltages they are getting at the battery.

Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to determine if I have a defective r/r and or a weak stator. I've studied the different kinds of stators extensively and am sold on the series design. (Sh775, Sh847 or CE605) I fully understand the 3 styles and advantages of mosfet, old school shunt and series and i agree with your assessment camos. I don't seem to have adequate charging voltages! Research gives conflicting info on what these series design DC voltage output should be.

After your comments, I was motivated to retake some readings and took pictures for myself so that my memory wouldn't trick me... After some warm up I measured the 3 phases: idle 14-16 volts fluctuating 4000rpm ~90 volts 4600 rpm ~100 volts 5000 (a bit over?) as much as 118 volts Ohms to ground - infinite phase to phase .5 ohms x 3 ways With headlights and fan on: Idle - 10.6A @ 12.6V (this goes down lower after a while) 4600 rpm - 22.7A @ 13.7V (and creeping up ever so slowly) With Headlight and tail fuses pulled and fan off: Idle - 9.1A @ 13.0V 4600 rpm 18.6A @ 14.0 volts OK, so what do you think of these readings?

I got my rotor back a couple weeks ago with the starter clutch mod completed and It sure looks good! Great Job Dano! I'm finally getting the bike back together and got it started a couple days ago. Works perfectly! The #2 AWG battery cables and new battery sure help too! Many Kudo's to you Dano! Thanks much!

What should the voltage be using the series style regulator? sh775, compufire, CE-605 SB etc... I'm seeing all kinds of references and some that imply as low as 12.1 might be normal at times. see: http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellstator/#installedstatortest I have a brand new ricks stator just installed and tested. It's putting out 25-65 volts AC depending on rpms. Ohms tests out perfect. ~0.3 ohms lead to lead 3 ways and infinite to ground. I have 2 fluke meters (professional industrial electrician btw) one clamped to the r/r output reading 12-15 AMPS at all times while simultaneously reading voltage with the other one @ as low as 12.1 volts idling with brake lights on. When first started, (which it starts fantastic now thanks to Dano's starter clutch mod! Thanks Dano!) it reads as high as 14 but quickly drops off to 13 or so and as low as 12.1 as described already. (I also replaced the battery cables to size 2. ) Is this a function of the r/r switching off the stator? I find some comments implying I should be around 14 volts (seems so for the FH mosfet versions) yet others as in the above link showing documentation that much lower voltages might be expected. BTW this is also a brand new AGM Yuasa battery that I filled myself and charged for a couple days with a brand new noco genius charger. So I'm sure that either this unit is defective OR this might be normal, which I am questioning. I also checked the amperage output from the r/r to be about 5 amps lower than the draw on the battery going through the main fuse. Hmmm... One other note. I bought what I thought was a polaris version of the sh775 but now realize I bought a "replaces xxx" unit from amazon. It's obviously working to an extent, but to me it's not keeping the voltage high enough. Or is it? So what are your experiences with "proper" voltages using the series r/r?

Thanks guys! That's exactly what I needed. I bought my 83 with only 9000 miles on it about 3 years ago with Elite 2's already on it. Some guy won it on a slot machine in about 1984 and its mostly sat since... I LOVE the way it handles and I'm finding that not all the tires offered in this unique size ALSO have an adequate weight rating. Daily commuter but my wife also loves to ride with me. I now have ~20,000 miles on it and still have tread (technically). If it wasn't for winter coming, I'd go another summer on them. So with the Elite 2's having proved themselves with me, the Elite 3's are a no brainer! I just couldn't find a site that listed that size, much less with an adequate load rating! Looks like rocky mountain has good prices as well! Thanks for that Cabreco, and for the quick answer Camos! Cheers!

I would love to know what size tires are you running in the E3's? because they aren't offered in the stock 120/90-18 size for that tire. My first choice might have been the commander II's but alas, those aren't offered either.

I've tried this homemade set up with decent results. Its a bit tricky but I got the hang of it pretty quickly. See what you think. Homemade 4 Cylinder Carburetor Synchronizer/Manom…: [ame] [/ame]

After thinking and remembering... the stator issue I mentioned... I should have also mentioned that I ALSO had a melted stator connector basically shorting things, which amplified the duty of the alternator intermittently, and probably was making the noise louder... I cut it the connector and butt spliced. Voltage is way up. Didn't know it would go that far up on the meter. (83 w ~15k miles) Now it has more power then I've had in a LONG time...

Loose stator can make you SWEAR you've got a bad bearing. Quiets down some pulling in the brake. Mine had 1/4" rotation worth of slop. A good cleaning of threads and tightened with loctite. I'm quiet again.

I discovered the torque chart in section 8... it is listed there... now if I could just get the exhaust back together.

:confused24:do you know what the torque spec is for the segment countersunk torx bolt? I can't find a well defined answer. An educated guess is that it is an M6 bolt and probably higher than grade 5... so, 120 inch pounds seems about right, but I REALLY don't want to do all of this twice... This chart is helpful but inconclusive in this situation: http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/ausertech/Torque%20Specifications%20of%20Small%20Screws.htm The Service manual COMPLETELY skips this particular bolt. I've searched it 2 dozen times. Every bolt surrounding it is covered in section 3 in the pages 30-40 area... :confused24:

And, its now obsolete... $75 for a new one I just seen today on ebay... first new one I've seen in months of searching. Help!?

I'm wanting to do this to my 83. I realize this is an old thread and now it seems the part # 41R-82540-01-00 is obsolete. Can you recommend a source or is ebay my only luck on this one?

Thanks Gary for the quick reply. I'm finishing up my order this evening more confidently thanks to you.

I finally found this thread after hours of searching. My situation is "almost" the same as the symptoms you all have described, but very different. I have been feeling a very strange grind as if missing gears for a couple weeks. It would grind letting the clutch out while downshifting and engine braking. I could feel it in the clutch handle transmitted up through the fluid to my hand. It would do this once and not again for days... then again and not for days... Yesterday it all let go and apparently I found perpetual neutral. Thankfully AFTER getting through the intersection and on the way home and at the beginning of a 3 day weekend. Somewhat comforting that I have a few days to figure this out. Long story short, as you can see from the pics I've uploaded the pins are technically fine on my segment piece. So is the cheesy tin foil pin holder. What's NOT ok is where the hell is the head of my countersunk bolt? This allowed the segment to back out enough to create symptoms. I could shift forever either up or down and also even though I could feel neutral detenting, the neutral light never lit up. The rear wheel never did anything beyond a normal neutral reaction. Some held back tears and half a bottle of wine and a nights sleep... alas, here I am with the found solution you all have provided. It appears the bolt wasn't tight enough and the threadlocker has backed out and puddled in the hole near the bolt, thus wollering the head off. SO, I see there is a newer segment with integral parts that does away with the tin foil holder. The part number 4NK-18185-00-00 apparently is the replacement but I can't find confirmation that it fits the 83 model. Anyone that can confirm this? The closest I've come is where I've found this part number. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61890&highlight=shifter+pins This might also be helpful to some: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-4NK-18185-00-00.html It shows what models use this segment but still doesn't confirm it's use in an 83... :-/

I'll be doing this as well hopefully this weekend. My brake fluid indicator is driving me crazy. I thought I had it narrowed down to the connector on the back but its baaaack... My next suspicion was just as rbig1 described. BTW guys, DEOXIT D5 does miracles on contacts and corrosion stuff. As a maintenance electrician I use it all the time and have seen it do very well with contacts. It also reverses corrosion and leaves a nice layer of protection. http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1602/.f?sc=2&category=188