syscrusher

I found an independent appraiser when my car was in an accident and the insurance company wanted to total it. In my state the insurance company will try to total it if they think it will cost 70% of value to fix it and they had set the value way too low. Are you sure they are not offering to sell it back after settlement for $166? The insurance company will usually try to total if it's more than a small accident because many times there are cost overruns when the restoration process is underway. If they can get you to accept a lowball total offer it's much more cost effective for them.

It sounds like it requires major surgery. How long before I'm push starting it and how bad is it to replace required parts? It sounds expensive too, is it?

The thread about a 4 brush starter got me thinking but I decided I should start a different thread since my problem seems different. It sounds like the starter teeth just aren't meshing but it has only done this when the engine is warmed up at least somewhat. Very loud gnashing sound, can this be fixed with just a new starter or does it get worse than that?

When you are typing out a post the words that are misspelled get the squiggly red underline. To find out how they should be spelled you can right click on the word and a list of suggestions will appear provided that it can guess what you were trying to type. By looking at the suggestions perhaps you can learn how some of the words you use are spelled and you will be more easily understood by the people who are reading what you have posted. It is very interesting that Yamaha Australia is correctly spelled while "any" and "fuse" are not, but you spelled these the same consistently yet incorrectly.

The forecast for Omaha is 98 degrees everyday so I'm going to have to stay home to spray water on the lawn when it catches fire. I hope everyone has fun in their weekend travels though.

I was on my Vulcan 2000 my first time at Yellowstone and I pulled off onto what looked like a turnout only to find that it was very soft ground and somewhat below the level of the road, which itself was an 8" thick layered stack of tarry black impediment. I tried to drive out of there but was merely sinking my rear wheel into the dirt. A couple of guys in Halloween colors rode past and looked and I was freaked when I saw them actually come back around. These guys were much larger than most normal humans. They had me steady the bike while the largest of the two actually lifted the front wheel and the other guy pulled it so that the front wheel at least was back on the road. Then they pushed while I drove out of there and back onto the road. I didn't know what to do, didn't want to cheapen the whole thing by offering cash so I just said "Thanks", and I'm writing this as well to pay them back for helping me and to say not all Harley riders are asses. As a matter of fact some of my best friends are Harley riders.

Thermarest is best and they have every size and thickness up to 2". If you really cant keep sharp objects away from it though you may want a [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Therm-Z-Lite-Sleeping-Regular-Coyote/dp/B00453NA1E]Amazon.com: Therm-a-Rest Z-Lite Sleeping Pad (Regular, Coyote/Gray): Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/510kBNyPBfL.@@AMEPARAM@@510kBNyPBfL[/ame] from Thermarest. It doesn't inflate because it's a closed cell foam pad that folds up fairly compact. There's different versions of this too. You will get your best rest on a thicker inflatable, provided it remains leak-free but the trade-off is bulk. The Z Lite is less comfortable, bulky, but always performs.

125 miles from here, but I won't be able to afford any of them. With the buzz this has gotten I doubt I'll be able to afford to camp in a nearby campground.

I bought the Seal Doctor and have tried it but my left seal was literally spewing out oil. I drained it today and pressure washed my lower and caliper, etc. My suspension sucks but it hasn't bucked me off or anything. A new seal is on order and I wonder what I will find when I examine this one.

I had just put the seals in but had lots of trouble with that left one. I like the panty hose trick for finding the rough spot, I'll try that. I also saw someone suggesting to put a nitrile glove sans cuff over the bushing grooves before slipping the seal onto the fork and I'll do that. I just had plans to do some traveling soon and was hoping to just be able to ride it before parts got here.

It's ON. With your method when it's done you've got to walk for gas. I'm used to that with my fuel injected bike but I prefer the soft landing of keeping a reserve of fuel since the bike allows it.

Thinking about draining left fork and driving it that way. There's a BMW with a single fork so precedent exists. My new fork seal on the left leaks BADLY. Oil is dripping or pouring from the brake components underneath the fork whenever I stop and I suppose I'm not helping my front tire traction. I don't know why it leaks so bad unless it was from all of the attempts to pound the seal in to begin with. So what do you think? Do I really need both forks? I'll still have a spring in the left side, just no damping.

Done. Where do I get the map that I presume shows the states you've done jail time in?

My VN2000 has water-cooled heads only and it does a very good job of keeping the engine cool. At 2053cc my VN2000 is actually cooler on my legs than my 1300cc Gen1.2.

Yes! I am surprised y'all are not already using Gen 1.2, much quicker than typing 1st gen MKII.

It was only on a very slight incline with the front of the bike a little higher than the rear and it only took 3.5 gals from one bar to fill. Worries me what it would be like climbing mountain switchbacks with it then.

Thanks, I guess I would be curious what the cost would be for a proper spacer just so that I know I'm not operating the bike stupidly. Because of this, I mean. I know that a shorter spacer won't prevent the other stupidity.

So these have an electric fuel pump? Why does it click, my VN2000 just whirrs?

I am hearing a series of clicking noises from the rear of the bike when I turn the key on. Does the CLASS perform some function when the key is turned to on or does anyone have any guesses about this?

I started the bike and ran it for only a few minutes each time then installed all new plugs and started it and let it warm up for a while. I then rode it back into the garage so that I could also pull a car in alongside it. The choke was off completely now but when I tried to rev the engine it wouldn't go and acted flooded, more throttle = less RPMs. I turned it off, trying to think why it was acting this way. I'm not sure it works with CV carbs but I tried opening the throttle and holding it to clear the carbs. I could not get it restarted and decided to just leave it. It seemed like the battery could be low so I put the charger on it over the weekend. Today I thought I would be lucky so I tried to start it and it wouldn't kick off again. It had one bar for gas but I added a gallon from the mower can anyway. Still wouldn't start. I fiddled with the ON/OFF/RES knob turned and then back to ON and then it would start and run. Rode it to the gas station and put 2.5 gallons in it to fill it. What is going on with this? It was down only 3.5 gallons but that was enough to keep it from running? Does the battery have to be at peak charge to run these?

I have these rotor covers on my new to me gen 1.2. I torqued the axle bolt to 75lbs and it seems really tight. Does that mean that I need this spacer? I don't know what process the PO went through in putting on the rotor covers to begin with but he had also wired in the lights for the rotor covers but that doesn't mean they were installed properly. Please supply some info on the use and need for these shorter spacers?

Just did this myself today. I used hose to start the plug and to spin it most of the way in. You don't have enough torque with the hose to do any damage if you didn't get the plug aimed properly to begin with. For aiming I use the hose but then grab the plug with a big needle nose plier and draw it toward you, this usually gets it in the right spot. For the tough stuff I used a 13mm Gearwrench with a 3/8" socket insert and a thin walled 18mm deep well socket (Lowes Kobalt). The Gearwrench has a very tight rachet, much better than my cheap ratchets. It's also very compact for tight spaces. http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/combination/ http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/lstgj.lxcoa/v/vspfiles/photos/KDT-9230-2.jpg?1329289691 I keep my finger on some part of it so that it doesn't reverse and just keep cranking a little at a time. Watch out for the "ears" of a hose clamp right next to the plug, one on either side. I ended up just under these but you can move them a bit to the side with your long nosed pliers.

Sorry I was wrong. Of course I lack the skill and where-with-all to ever remove one of my hands from the handlebar even when sitting still. I think the answer really is in the other direction, everyone should wave at everyone else while driving. Cars, bicyclists, SUVs, straight trucks and tractor/trailers should all be waving away frantically because we are all using a roadway together and that makes us comrades. And of course there needs to be specific rules for doing so and probably a mini-course at the community college one can take to avoid disgracing oneself with improper form. Drivers manuals will need updating and teens will need warned to be sure to wave at everyone while taking the physical driving test. Doesn't anybody realize that when a Harley rider points down at the road he's not waving at you he's calling your (Brand X) bike a hazard on the roadway.

"While working, Big Muskie used the equivalent of the power for 27,500 homes, costing tens of thousands of dollars an hour just in power costs and necessitating special agreements with local Ohio power companies to accommodate the extra load." Amazing.

The seal install would have been a lot easier without the boots. The boots on it have 1/8" holes on the lower section just above the seals. Seems really dumb since those holes allow dirt in but at least there is something there. I'd like to buy something that velcros on instead.