cowpuc

With all the hype and push toward Electric Motorcycles I can't help but wonder why no one has ventured into the Hybrid arena. Instead of being limited to distance traveled due to battery depletion, a hybrid gas/electric powered scoot would enable the rider to travel long distances, non stop. Plus, if done correctly, breaking the 100 mpg glass ceiling on a tour bike should easily be within reach. We have been breaking 65 mpg in our little Hyundai Ioniq CAGE now on a regular basis. Personally and IMHO, the responses I have been seeing about the new HD Electric bike (and others) has been :thumbdown:mostly due to the price (30 grand for two wheels and an electric motor?) but also due to the range before run out of juice.. I really think a "hybrid" = gas engine AND electric would be a game changer... Of course,, I am admittedly one of those lop eared lame brainered varmints who thought the 1700 cc V-Max motor instead of an air cooled V-Twin in the new Venture would have been a game changer and produced better sales on your touring bike offering so there's that but I still cant help but wonder if the first producer out with an actual Hybrid bike may be onto something in the future of motorcycling..

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW - she is GORGEOUS Casey = a MAJOR upon you!! Oh yeah,,, it WILL be OK brother!! Just lots and lots of respect being paid to it and believe me - it will be wayyy more than OK!!! IMHO,, owning/riding a full blown Liter bike is like having your very own World Class Roller Coaster of your very own.. It's also really fun having one of the fastest production vehicles produced and being able to enter triple digits in 1st Gear with the feeling of entering warp speed aint half bad either = BAD TO THE BONE.. Throttle control my friend,, its all about throttle control

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW ,, she's a DANDY Radar!! Did it follow ya home yet?? Been seeing LOTS of GREAT deals on both the Eluder and the SVTC out there.. Just noticed (Cycle Trader) em listed for 15 ( https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2018-Yamaha-Star-Eluder-5003956296 ),, you go all the wayyyy out to Washington to get yours in this sub-zero weather? If are in order,, are given my friend!!

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW,, THANKS FOR JOINING IN ON THE FUN MONSTAH!! Beautiful smathering of mouth watering shooters ya got there brother!!! LOVE your VEPR-12!! Grabbed an FR-98 (AR-12 cause I am into AR's) myself to fulfill the want of a high cap 12 gauge a good while back and discovered the issue of having to pay big money for mags above 5 rounds,, something the VEPR had long since had covered. Time and sales has long since brought those prices down and the AR has proven worthy but I do LOVE your AK style 12 gauge = NICE,, REAL NICE! As well as your other shooters, I also LOVE the looks of your wifes Kimber 9.. Looks like a 1911 platform!! DEFINITELY love the 1911's!! Thanks for joining the fun Monsta!! Glad to have you keeping the lead tossin happening!! Puc

Got er done ya lop eared White Washin varmint!! Told Tip,, got 2 choices,, dismantle and install blower or wait and see if it melts and the leafs fall so I can attach the leaf vac and pic em up.. Then got thinkin of all we have learned about Murph = leave the blower off and bingo = full blown winter of historic WW records is headed our way. 2 hours of dismantling and installing blower = snow will melt so I have to uninstall and then reinstall at next snowfall,, I was :scratchchin: until it dawned on me,,,, 6 extra hours of work = the return of summer? WIN/WIN for all of lop eared NON ICE IN VEINS varmints :moon::rasberry: - just say NO to SNOW

DEFINITELY a brother by a different mother Bum!!

IMHO, besides understanding that welding is sort of similar to painting in that it tends to be alot about prep and cleaniness, beyond that it is alot about being able to actually see "the puddle". If you can see the puddle then you can use the puddle like an artist/painter delicately uses the paint brush tip to apply his trade with remarkable accuracy. Undercutting and goose poop welds become a thing of the past as now the person doing the welding is actually seeing the fusing between the two objects taking place and knows exactly what the weld is going to look like and perform like before he/she even raises the weld hood.. Also, IMHO, it seems (for some us anyway) that it is easier to learn the skill of "seeing the puddle" by using an Oxy/Act torch (you got a torch Jack?) set up for brazing and practice some without the additional alloy being added as your trying to see the puddle. Adjust the flame to a nice cone like you are gonna braze up a piece of tin then just use the tip of the cone on a hunk of steel to push the puddle around without adding filler. Practice keeping the puddle consistently at one size by both speed you are moving and distance between cone and steel.. I know, as usual I am getting long winded.. Have fun playing with the new toy brother!!! Puc

Maddy, I never tried a Turkey Baster but am pretty sure it would be very difficult to attach it to the drain tubes. I have always used Syringes, like what I show in the pics below. I get mine from a local Tractor Supply (use to be Farm and Fleet) and they fit the drain tubes nicely. What I do/have done is attach the syringe to a drain tube by forcing the nipple shown in the pic up into the tube (you may have to pre-spread the tube a little with a pair of needle nose pliers - just stick the closed nose of the pliers in the tube and open the pliers enough to stretch the rubber hose some so the syringe nipple will start into the tube) open the drain and suck the fuel out into the syringe. Leave the syringe attached and pull the plunger out and dump the fuel into a jar. Pull the carb slide/diaphram, fill the syringe with carb cleaner of your choice (I use spray cleaner from Menards), put the plunger back in and push the cleaner into the carb while watching the main jet emulsion tube in the carb body that the metering rod that attaches to the slide slides into. Push fuel in until the cleaner starts flowing from the metering rod hole - when it flows = close the drain and let it soak over night. When I remove the cleaner I like to pull it in and out of the bowl with the syringe to adgitate the cleaner a little. Not sure how well this will work for cleaning the float valve though as the float is going to be raising as you inject cleaner thru the drain... Perhaps,, maybe,, what da heck,, worth a try.. If it were mine I would probably do what I am talking about only after cleaning pulling the cleaner out for the last time I would leave the syringe attached, close the drain, cycle the fuel pump with the kill switch till I heard the pump signal the bowl was full by not cycling anymore, pull the fuel from the carb with the syringe a couple times to wash the float valve thouroughly. Maddy, did you check your fuel tank for rust? If not, it may not be a bad idea to pull the seat, pull the sending unit out of the top of tank and take a look inside of it. Pay special attention to the top of the tank, also dump the fuel you are removing from the carb and put it in a jar and let it set overnight to see if tiny rust particles are gathering in the bottom of the jar. I know this probably sounds nuts but I have had on more than one occasion had rust particles from rusty tank interiors that were so small that even the best of the best fuel filters would not collect em.. The little buggers of rust would still contaminate and mess up a healthy float valve though.. Anyway,, hope this helps.. Here is a video of the carb drain hoses that I did for another clubber, it shows the drain hoses I am speaking of and also some pics of the syringes I use, hope this all helps in some small way brother..

Just got back in here myself and HOPE AND PRAY you gotta outta dodge BEFORE Fool started his latest round of shananigans Raggy!! I was planning on maybe doing some fall yard work but looks like we went right to Fool's WWW season instead!! All the VERY best in your move brother and that your singing this tune: Here is what we came home to:

Another thing that comes to mind Red, maybe pull the slides and check em for stickiness in the carb bodies. Also double check the condition of the diaphrams while your in there poking around...

Been out putting a few more miles on Trooper,,, boogied home with hopes/plans of maybe picking up a few leaf's in the yard (hard to do with 90% of those leaf's still hooked up in the trees!!) but ohhhh nooo,, instead we got welcomed back by Wisconsin White Wash scattered all over the place... County plow trucks are even chasing around scraping and spreading salt!! 5 inches on the ground and still comin!! :snow::snow: Hope I can remember how to attach the blower on the tractor!!

Noticing that Polaris is specing out no valve clearance adjustment on this new SOHC engine as it has Hydraulic Lifters and being of the type of gearhead that I am,, I couldn't help but wonder what's inside.. A little digging and I came up with the following pic that shows the topend (it's the only pic I could find, I am on the right trail here). It appears to my untrained eyes that the "lifters" are installed on the valve stem contact end of the rocker assembly and that Polaris is using fork type roller rocker = one cam lobe is operating 2 valves. An interesting concept,, - I think my eyes and greasy fingers have played with such before,, thinking Honda 700 Nighthawk . Think I am calling this right? Also, looking at the end of the cam,,, seeing what looks like possible variable valve timing ,,, probably not,, more likely some form of compression release mechanism. Thoughts?

Not at all,, just putting in my in an effort to curtail anyone advancing the discussion into taking it personal, having hurt feelings cause something got removed.. Not saying that even that would/could/may happen but knowing that, from time to time it does ..

IMHO, from the get go - our club has been a "family oriented" site,, one that even children could visit without having parental over site needed to guard against seeing things that may not be appropriate for young eyes.. I have never been a site Moderator but can only imagine that being one is not that dissimalar from being the "trail boss" on a ride that consists of +50 riders all of varying degrees of skill levels and trying to make the call on routing, ride speeds and difficulty of terrain = ya gotta gear the ride to the least skilled levels to protect the group and make it fun for all. Personally,, as a "trail boss" I think MarCarl (and others) has always done an excellent job at the task and I totally trust his call on this type of stuff.. I also know from experience how easy it is for things to turn "personal". In the spirit of Club brotherhood and just to cut off a possible opportunity for that to happen somehow in this case, it may do us all good to be reminded that what is being discussed has been dealt with many times over in the past..

WOWZY WOW WOW WOW = AWESOME Fool = my brother!!! All the absolute VERY best of wishes as you break in a new employer my friend!!

,, I was never really good with algebrahick quations ,,,,, = :lightbulb:20 feet? , :crackup:, :rotfl: Ohhhh my gosh Sly,,,, you and I are gonna have sooooo much fun up yonder

The more geezerly I get,, the more well defined the term "confused" becomes Bum I am SOOO right there with you my eternal brother Sly!! :thumbsup:

Maybe a quick release option is in order,,, doubt it though - why sell a 3000 dollar option when ya can spring out a whole nuther line .. I REALLY like seeing the rear boinger numbers on this one = 4 1/2 inches of travel (and still sporting a 26 inch seat height). Thinking that might be double of the Road Glide which is nothing but bottom out city if ya two up and packed for CTFW . This new Polaris must be a Mono Shock as I am sure the Yamaha is where, as far as I know, HD is still playing with twin shocks (remember the days of beating up our backs on twin shock dirt bikes - my spine is SHOT cause of those WONDERFUL years ). Sheesh Boss,,, 22k for base Challenger ,,,, a really good buddy of mine has a new Venture, full blown touring WITH TRUNK and all the goodies including REVERSE, completely decked out for under 20 grand with under 2k miles on it...

It will be interesting to see if HD comes out with one with a V-Rod MTR stuffed in it now. Only issue there may be that the V-Rod is only 1250cc's, down from the +1700cc in this new one.. On the same token though, HD may just sit on their hands and wait to see how the market responds to a full on water cooled, over head cam non push rod motor V-Twin from their American competition since the V-Rod, like all their other shifts away from the traditional tractor motor design from the early 1900's, never sold well. That last article that I posted did mention the new Venture along with the HD: ""Indian says the PowerPlus “was developed with a big-piston, big-torque mindset with an end game of maximum power delivery across the entire curve.” When we put the Challenger on Jett Tuning’s dyno, its belt-driven rear wheel cranked out 113.3 lb-ft of torque at 3,500 rpm and 107.6 horsepower at 5,600 rpm, with redline at 6,500 rpm (see chart below). That unseats the previous king of torque among V-twin tourers we’ve tested, the Yamaha Star Venture (110.9 lb-ft of torque, 75.9 horsepower), as well as the top-of-the-line Harley-Davidson CVO Limited (110.0 lb-ft of torque, 96.0 horsepower). The Challenger’s broad mountain of rear-wheel torque tops 100 lb-ft from 2,400 to 5,600 rpm, and its horsepower curve increases steadily from 2,000 rpm to its peak."" It will certainly be interesting to see if Polaris's reading the push for more HP wanted by the market is accurate. Time will tell I reckon. One thing for sure, our counterparts over on the Indian site are pumped!

And the bike rags are on it on release day = https://ridermagazine.com/2019/10/29/2020-indian-challenger-limited-road-test-review/

It's out!

:think: and a double :scratchchin:,,, as usual, I think my post may have cornfused even me cause a [ ] or two got chopped somehow.. Twasnt I who quoted Don,, twas Patch.. That being said, I got a hunch that he was talking about the "what Don said" in the posted I quoted above... Ohhhh Lord help me if I spoke for Patch and am wrong :crackup::crackup:There'll be no little stars on the top of this lop eared Grasshopper varmints home work if I am I tell ya

Thanks for the update brother, it's always good to hear from you ya know!! Thoughts and Prayers Up Patch as you sort thru the health related stuff you are dealing with!! Puc

What Don said is correct and the theory applies broadly across naturally aspirated engines. Whether you are F.I. or Carb the process of syncing throttles is a matter of volume and velocity balance. F.I. will deliver a programmed fuel pulse (adaptive or not), and carburetors will siphon and atomize fuel. So equalized volume and velocity at the throttle is the task being attempted and is what we are reading via vacuum measurements regardless of tool used. If as he suggest there is doubt over lash then the sync is not balanced because the process is not an individual one, each individually adjusted body affects the other to work as one team. I’ll go a little deeper: When lash is out of spec the valve stroke and duration has changed. This means that volume and velocity has also changed and that means jug to jug efficiency has also changed! When we sync as shown (just the intake side of the equation) and the valve strokes are not corrected then @ WOT (for example) are all throttles at 90*? Or at 4000 rpm.. are they close to equal? (Volume wise) remember that is the task. Ask why the book calls for maximum pressure differentials and minimum pressure potentials? They build volume and velocity base lines. If we ignore the valve duty cycles then we also accept that regardless of intake feed efforts, combustion efficiency may or may not be close enough to produce good throttle response, period because, the volumes and velocities are not as expected: therefore combustion pressures applied to the crank are also less than expected regardless of potential displacement designed efficiencies. Consider this; displacement potential can only be converted to torque after the process of first getting the air/fuel ratios in past the throttles and intake valves… Each link in the change applies forces to the crank; each jug that is lower in fill % is lower in output. This means that syncing the bodies or equalizing them while the valve train is out of spec results in an invalid sync, in fact dumbs the performance poetical. The tool while likely a good investment for a mechanic or serious new comers to the sport is designed around the principles that in this case sound like were ignored. My reference to the vacuummate is simply that the strobe side of it tells you at a glance if it is sensing incorrect pressures form either side of the valve train which means - correct before proceeding to sync. Anyways just an opinion Patch Another excellent read written by the Master Of Machine IMHO. Another issue associated that one may want to consider in the classroom of thought when talking proper valve lash concerns that I have bumped into is that as a valve face wears it naturally closes the valve stem height = the need for lash adjustment is urgent. Most non hydraulic lifter valve lashes are set somewhere like 3 thou for the intakes and 5 for the exhaust valves. This .003 or .005 (your factory specs may differ) is not a lot of wear room before the lash crosses into the 0 or -0 zone allowing for compression necessary for combustion to drop significally as the valve no longer seals on the seat properly. A concern then can come into play as it is possible to actually burn valves (this concern is more common on exhaust valves from what I have seen). GREAT to have you back in front of the class Teach!! Puc

,, call the airport and ask em to change their flight schedules to coincide with your non-viewing/sleeping hours Cut em a deal using your White Washer as leverage = you'll sign a non-run way targeting contract that confirms all flights will now be during your "off" hours... You may be an awesome engineer brother but your wheelin/dealin negotiating skills need some sharpenin,, IMHO