videoarizona Posted June 15, 2015 Share #1 Posted June 15, 2015 Found some links with the search, but nothing definitive. Has anyone lately done this? TIA, david Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin-vic-b.c. Posted June 16, 2015 Share #2 Posted June 16, 2015 It is a very good question. I do a lot of Triathlon and cycling race patrols and have noticed that when you turn the key off the flashers go off. I would love to do this alteration also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etcswjoe Posted June 16, 2015 Share #3 Posted June 16, 2015 Instead of wiring my flashers I am looking at adding amber strobes with a separate switch http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/alpena-twinstrobe-amber-77234w/10461231-P?zoneAssigned=1&prefZC=29445 I ran into a really bad pop up storm with almost no visibility and if that ever happens again I want to be seen. I talked to local law enforcement and the State Police and they said it sounded like a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted June 16, 2015 Share #4 Posted June 16, 2015 Makes no sense that Yamaha did the 4-way flashers to only work when the key was on. I'm off on the side of the road in a break down, the vehicle would normally be off and I'd want to have the flashers going. If someone knows the wiring diagram, it should be simple to cut the switched power and feed the 4-way switch with live power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 16, 2015 Share #5 Posted June 16, 2015 Found some links with the search, but nothing definitive. Has anyone lately done this? TIA, david Which bike are you looking to do this to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted June 16, 2015 Share #6 Posted June 16, 2015 He posted this in the 2nd Gen section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 16, 2015 Share #7 Posted June 16, 2015 Doh, I always forget to look at that clue..... I know a lot more about 1st gen wiring than 2nd gen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share #8 Posted June 16, 2015 (edited) Jeff, me too. This "emergency switch needing key on" simply doesn't compute in my brain. I'm still having troubles understanding how Mom Yamaha could make so many mistakes on the 2nd Gen after building an almost perfect bike in the 1st Gen! This is just another example of someone, somewhere wasn't thinking clearly when the design was finalized. Steve@M61A1MECH.....time for you to research and make another plug/play harness. david Edited June 16, 2015 by videoarizona Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted June 16, 2015 Share #9 Posted June 16, 2015 (edited) EDIT : Doing what I suggest here may not have the intended results. Better to wait for an electrician to comment and provide an educated answer. --------------------------------------------- From looking at the wiring schematic...there is a brown (Br) that goes to the hazard relay. This looks to be the switched power feed from the signals fuse. Should be able to cut it (just before the HAZARD relay (there are other things that come off that brown wire like the flasher relay and horns so you want to cut it immediately before it goes to the hazard relay - where I circled the Br in red) and connect a hot wire to the hazard relay where the brown wire connected to the hazard relay. Do NOT energise the other side of the brown wire what goes to the horns, etc. http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf I haven't done this yet and is my interpretation of tracing the wiring from the diagrams. I'm not an electrician. If you are uncertain of what I'm saying or if anyone sees an error.....don't do it. Edited June 16, 2015 by XV1100SE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 16, 2015 Share #10 Posted June 16, 2015 What Don posted looks like it should work, again I'm just basing it on looking at the wiring diagram. I am not sure what they are doing with the hazard relay and 2 flasher relays. It would be nice if there was a depiction of the internal circuit of those 3 relays. When you disconnect the Br wire from the hazard relay, do a check with a ohm meter from the Br wire that is still connected to the flasher relay and to ground. You should have infinite ohms. If you have a ohm reading that means there is something inside of the hazard relay that will always be drawing power and will run down your battery while parked. When you run this new power wire be sure to run it through a fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted June 16, 2015 Share #11 Posted June 16, 2015 The diagram is one that Gary did and he used different symbols for the two relays. Keep in mind that the bulbs are run/turn so you have two filaments and require a switched power feed for the running, and pulsed power for the signals. The switch uses Dg for the right turn signal and Ch for the left. Running lights are L with B as the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted June 16, 2015 Share #12 Posted June 16, 2015 Looking at it again....my idea may be off-base. If you wire directly to the battery as I suggested you might have a drain on your battery and your lights might constantly flash. The top relay looks like it has some sort of capacitor that probably charges and dissipates (sends power to the Hazard relay) to flash the turn signals. If you cut into the wire where I originally suggested, you will be sending constant power to the 4 way flasher relays Turning on the hazard lights grounds out the Br/G which tells the Hazard Relay to activate. Think it is better to wait for Gary or an electrician to respond with the proper way to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted June 16, 2015 Author Share #13 Posted June 16, 2015 OK...so from what you guys have said... I'm wondering if the power goes to the hazard relay... for all relays....and is isolated from turn/hazard switches. Then they use the two other relays to control front and rear turn signals...leaving a common power through the hazard relay for the running lights. Hence the need for the key to be on for all to work. david Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 16, 2015 Share #14 Posted June 16, 2015 We are only guessing at what is happening inside of the relays, since we have no info, that is why I recommended a test to be safe. Don I think you might have been correct before you started second guessing yourself. If your new theory was correct then the hazards would be flashing any time the key was on. The hazards appear to be wired hot and the ground is switched to turn them on or off. If there is some small power draw from the hazard when they are not being used this would be no problem with the bike running, it would be a problem with the bike parked, hence the test to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share #15 Posted June 23, 2015 ((We are only guessing at what is happening inside of the relays, since we have no info, that is why I recommended a test to be safe.)) Jeff...I did post what looks to be a basic schematic for the relay in your medical post....to give you something to think about during your recoup! BTW, pleased to see you are posting daily! david Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 23, 2015 Share #16 Posted June 23, 2015 I did start to research that, It went to the PDF file on how to modify the flasher for LED turn signals, there was no schematic in what I found. I am even posting from work (lunch hour) right now. But I am likely to head home early for a nap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted June 23, 2015 Share #17 Posted June 23, 2015 At one time I worked with Ponch via phone to get hazards working and we were not successful. Been quite a while, I don't remember specifically what we tried. Gary] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaking Posted July 1, 2015 Share #18 Posted July 1, 2015 I had mine wired so that the key is not required for the hazard lights. It was a matter of simply jumping one wire in the harness found under the main fairing. It also made the signal lights work without the key. I have the notes here somewhere, just have to find it.. But it was simple thing to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share #19 Posted July 1, 2015 Fantastic! Hope you can find those notes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bostonlawman2003 Posted July 6, 2015 Share #20 Posted July 6, 2015 Yes, I'd like to see those notes too!! Hoping you find them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share #21 Posted July 8, 2015 Bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share #22 Posted August 6, 2015 Bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 11, 2015 Share #23 Posted August 11, 2015 Somewhat related. I have dissected the two main flasher relays that I had no schematic info on from an RSV. I will get schematics drawn for these two relays, which will help to understand the hazard circuitry. One of them was encased in very tough rubber, which was a PIA getting off. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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